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Yeah, well, I suspect that when Derek cuts dovetails, he still uses that Titanium prototype he's had for a long while that none of us can get because it was never put into production (or was pulled from production before any of us found out about it). I still want one of those.
Actually, as you well know, Derek does a marvelous, even-handed job of tool reviews and commentaries. If he endorses the 3" newbie, you should take that to heart. And thank him for sharing his experience and time so generously with us.
Fair winds and following seas,
Jim Waldron
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Location: Pottsville, Pa.
Jim,
Is this what you are looking for?
http://knewconcepts.com/Titanium-saws.php
Don
Fill your heart with compassion, seek the jewel in every soul, share a word of kindness, and remember; the people's what it's about.
Capt. Tony Tarracino
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I have both the 3" and 5" of the older saws. I guess they are calling these the MK III saws now.
I'm not sure there is really any "performance" difference between the two, but i find that i do not use the 5" one at all. My primary use is for cutting out dovetail waste, and i find that the capacity of the 5" is just plain unnecessary for me. The 3" is more than enough. I set the blade to the 45 degree setting and i am more than able to cut anything i have needed to.
I will say that when i first got the saw i found it awkward because the handle was just too darned short. So i turned a new handle that was like 2 inches longer. I now use the saw all the time and it is one of my most cherished tools. Without the longer handle i found the saw really unbalanced and the 5" version was even moreso because of the added weight. I still need to do a long handle for the 5" one. i guess i keep it around in case i ever do any really big case work.
Anyway, the saw is plenty stiff. i would definitely buy it again, but i would certainly still modify it with a longer handle.
my 2 cents,
Wayne
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Nice work on both! What make is the marking gage?
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It’s the wood river one at woodcraft. It normally has a bumpy bubinga piece right there. I just jazzed it up a bit and polished the ferrule. I also ground a flat spot on the round marking fence so it doesn’t roll off the bench.
I probably have a half a dozen marking gauges and this one was purchased BECAUSE I could modify it. The bottom ferrule is reverse threaded and the bubinga insert just slips off a brass tube like a pen is made. It was inexpensive enough and was well enough made otherwise. Among all the gauges I have I like it and the stainless anniversary one from lee valley. Surprisingly I don’t care for the standard lee valley one as it didn’t seem to fit my hand well so I gave it to a friend.
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(08-29-2018, 08:41 AM)Mike Brady Wrote: Is there a major difference between the performance of the 5" and 3" KC saws? Maybe I should also ask the same question about the the two weights of alloy that are now available. There is the original red anodized aluminum and a newer alloy that is thicker and powder coated. It has the capacity for higher blade tension than the original style. Derek is the only poster I know who has both. He advocates for the newer model in 3" for cutting dovetail waste, I believe.
Great video on these saws:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VhNNzgNZaLA
