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10-16-2018, 08:57 AM
(This post was last modified: 10-16-2018, 08:58 AM by Cooler.)
Foam rollers do a really good job of leaving a smooth surface.
Some kitchen cabinet makers offer hand brushed finish at a upcharge. It adds a special "look".
http://www.crown-point.com/finishes/finishes.html
I've used General Finishes "milk paint" which is really a modern acrylic finish meant to mimic milk paint. When brushed on with a foam brush it leaves absolutely no brush marks or runs.
If the matte finish is not to your liking then you can top coat it with a clear finish in the sheen of your preference. I compared it side by side with Sherwin-Williams best paint. S-W did a terrific job matching the color and sheen, but they could not come close to the flaw-free finished product.
https://youtu.be/NouYJhwnt68
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The paint will be from a a selection of colors by whatever company it is that the missus selected for the rest of the house. There are sixteen colors in it; they all compliment each other, so it'll be latex. I didn't realize there were rollers that could leave a smooth surface; I've only used nap rollers. I'll look into that.
I assume I wouldn't need to thin the paint with a foam roller?
Semper fi,
Brad
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I've done quite a lot of painting with latex (acrylic) paint and a foam roller. In my experience, the foam roller will leave a slight orange peal texture; not perfectly smooth, but better than brush marks. This may vary somewhat with the brand and quality of the paint. Use of a small amount of Floetrol (follow directions) will diminish the texture somewhat.
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The top of the cabinet will be walnut with BLO; nothing more than nick-knacks will sit on it. The carcass and trim will be painted.
Semper fi,
Brad
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I defy anyone to distinguish my brushed on GF "milk paint" from a sprayed finish. It is not my skill that did it. The paint levels perfectly with no sags or pimples or brush marks. Try a small can to test. But you are limited to about 20 or so colors unless you blend your own.
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I think most will agree that BLO is not the best finishing product. For one thing, it takes a long time to cure. It also takes several applications over a long time to build a protective finish. I suggest that you try an old time tried and proven simple to apply finish that, while not as durable as poly, will be better than BLO alone. The basic mix is 1 part BLO, 1 part oil based varnish (if you can find it), and 1 part thinner. You can substitute tung oil for the BLO, polyurethane for the varnish, and turpentine for the thinner. You can also add a bit of japan drier if you like. This mix is very much like danish oil and can be applied in much the same way.
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I'm not worried about the cure time; the missus likes the way BLO looks on walnut (can't really blame her, right?) and is aware that it will take a while to be complete. I might try the mix you suggested on a scrap piece and see what she thinks about it.
Thanks!
Semper fi,
Brad
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Floetrol for the latex paint.
Mark
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