#15
I'm building a cabinet next weekend which needs adjustable feet.  It's also going in a bathroom so I'd like to keep the wood off the floor in case there's some standing water. 

The cabinet will have a frame made from 2x3 sticks of eucalyptus, covered in 3/4" plywood.  (there's a good reason for it to be over-engineered)

I was thinking that I could drill some holes into the end grain of the 2x3 eucalyptus, then epoxy some nuts in the holes.  Then I could screw in bolts with pvc pipe caps epoxied to the bolt heads.

What's the best way to epoxy the nuts into the hole while keeping the epoxy off the threads?  If I wax or grease the threads, could I epoxy a nut(s) in place with the bolt in there?  Would that allow me to unscrew the bolts after the epoxy cures?  Or will the epoxy glue the bolt in place anyway?

brian
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#16
Brain 

just retap the hole to clean out the threads.
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#17
You can coat the inside of the nuts with some vaseline or similar.
Use a q tip to smear it on the threads. Then use masking tape
to make small discs to seal up each end.

Mount the nuts with the epoxy. When dry, peel off the tape.
Swab out the vaseline. Done.

Might have to re tap the hole as stated above.
Mark Singleton

Bene vivendo est optimum vindictae


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#18
I would go to the local hardware store and buy threaded inserts, instead of messing with epoxying the nuts into the wood.  They are pretty inexpensive, and either the ones with coarse threads on the outside ( though they normally are not stocked much larger than 1/4 inch in HD,  https://www.homedepot.com/p/E-Z-LOK-1-4-.../304617998

or a tee nut   https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-5-1.../204274195   either should work for what you want.
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#19
If you install the nuts on the underside of the cabinet into holes that are slightly undersized, you won't need to screw around with the epoxy at all. Pull the nuts into the holes with a bolt with the flat washer under its head.
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#20
(11-11-2018, 09:46 AM)DaveR1 Wrote: If you install the nuts on the underside of the cabinet into holes that are slightly undersized, you won't need to screw around with the epoxy at all.

This
Steve

Mo.



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#21
(11-11-2018, 11:28 AM)Stwood_ Wrote: This

Thanks for all the responses.  I bought the wood yesterday.  I'll start putting it all together this weekend.

brian
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#22
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_...table+legs
"There is no such thing as stupid questions, just stupid people"
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#23
(11-11-2018, 10:12 AM)CARYinWA Wrote: https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_...table+legs

For someplace where it's going to show I would do as Cary suggested.  In my shop, I use "threaded screw mount nuts" and one of these.
The advantage of the screw mount nuts, besides being easy to install, is that they spread the load over the end of the leg better than an imbedded nut or threaded insert.  

John
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#24
I'm assuming that this will be for one time adjustment and then left alone. If so, use lag screws instead of nuts and bolts. Pre-drill your holes to a size that will allow the lag screw threads to bite into the wood. Screw them into place before setting the cabinets. Adjust and leave. They won't adjust as easily. You will likely need to put a wrench on them. However, if they are to be left in the final adjusted position, this is good.

If you prefer to use nuts and bolts, I would suggest the use of "T" nuts. After pre-drilling the holes, all you need to do is tap the "T" nut into place. No glue needed.
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Adjustable feet made from nuts, bolts, and epoxy


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