I've posted before on how I mill some of the lumber I use, but thought you might all enjoy seeing some more. And some here might never have seen some of this.
There are several ways to get logs milled into lumber. You can take your logs to a small mill, or you can have a bandsaw miller come to you, or you can mill your own. The best approach depends upon your circumstances and motivations. In my case, I have access to free logs on an infrequent basis, sometimes just one while other times it might be 4 or 5. Most of the logs I get are urban logs, meaning there is a pretty high likelihood of metal being in them. I don't know of any small mills near me and doubt any would be too keen on urban logs if there were, and most bandsaw millers for hire either charge you for a new blade if they hit metal or a resharpening charge, which is completely reasonable.. So I decided to build my own chainsaw mill as the best route for me to mill lumber. My preference would be a bandsaw mill simply because they cut faster, but I couldn't justify the upfront cost. However, I'm still thinking of building one some day.
As said, I get mostly urban logs, so I have to go get them and bring them home. I have no woodlot of my own. Picking up and transporting logs presents its own set of challenges, especially when they are in someone's backyard. Sometimes the pros I know cutting down the tree will get them out to the driveway, sometimes not. For my needs I decided to build a log arch. Originally, it was built for a max. 20" diameter log, but I've cut it apart twice to handle larger logs. Today it can handle a 33" diameter log and I don't plan to go any larger. It can be towed behind a small tractor, ATV, or my car.
![[Image: MoSzh3DnRGN-xSZhIclYIC3eGyD_6WEMfks1X8GD...06-h566-no]](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/MoSzh3DnRGN-xSZhIclYIC3eGyD_6WEMfks1X8GDuM2tO2ZThlkDW-AfCODVAEE7iLW-pLQ7tLvh-n8qHGf07AG_FX3RiGKXyisS9I7olq_Mg_4260-b_RYmHIEvtf-_mhJhgGma04GN1im9Ytj51WgpnEsh-1ZcbqWVPWDdfCxCIQ9ai2JqHJQm8X2IexJFCA98og10VltUPT7DaRlN70qt7VQtEQSWeZbUo4YyK25WHX5lTOxb-7toUSE09lilzt0wQoYYMRBn7XHctemfW3-gZXD25LEco9DgD_9E8MDsKp03g0rLrSlBnyZFL_W8abT1VR7Y9RMNFZ9mS3Y4zowhQQ1oKh0KZE553q9ahhIUxA0OZUnKxeyKBuo8-ff4h3wbGeRPulb75urvdepJvPrPydTRQXQDLJkVJ3FpXBUndMgAsUajb8tkz_kP4wmtfsv3KKjnqJTSH22bjyAkbO2gF-ZNMxr-LLVf7uTCOsbXNmQ4zY56QJnDFmFm0PGuneL06dOyAl2CQyzzMWYYfPHBana9pxmvpULlXzDI-fcyJQISUZ6DnzoJmancYOwLYWMsLmuuxk7T3cVzonuKZLWMs1mgsHvrYclj4NCcTIOEFwBzPUnkuM8zqUu08dteMbyiZmrrxnucsor3vlJDHWAXhUpwkF2JvEyJL5bt7QFt=w1006-h566-no)
A hand winch on the front of the arch picks up the log, then it is lowered onto a chain for transport. A ratchet strap at the front holds it against an adjustable stop to keep it parallel with the ground. The cable is placed just behind the balance point of the log so most of the mass is carried by the arch itself with only a small load on the tongue. This log is a red oak about 24" diameter and maybe 9' long. I built this log arch for around $250 using 2" square tubing and stub axles off a GM X-body car.
So how do you get a log up onto a mill of any sort? Well, one way is not to. My first mill was an Alaskan mill. You leave the log on the ground and mill the log where it lays. I did a lot of logs that way, over 3000 BF, but as I got older I got tired (more quickly) of lifting the mill on and off the log to mill each board and decided to build a rolling mill. Still, the Alaskan mill works just fine and for a couple hundred dollars plus a chainsaw you can mill lumber of very high quality. Here's a shot of my modest, portable, rolling mill.
![[Image: yDS46XaIdDa0YwY2-IETrL2K5uQsZW-5yhsAQIIq...35-h626-no]](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yDS46XaIdDa0YwY2-IETrL2K5uQsZW-5yhsAQIIqTnVK2MN6Pw1_iJJwyQt-CgVuix7oforJAuxO2YqD7j-MOeIdrTy_zXvKgHdWE0soaXK_pRQvg_NL7eUYEcO2gQCH6BdpTBvftvqoB0AjIddDLYKU4R5qUYJk_1x8i1sOhmaa4sq0PpP7Bfjsl81qxdEe4eDH1SzH2xF8DCkd4fJIi33nhzps8FllCyAxnwTNN6hlTUQRswkVeCZlEfb1aG2tUPXjB6bcWO9laQtLafrKyOLe10z5-0TQiXroE99lpglEicNnz_kj69cjtG2IRPNYh31fGKz3rQmaEB_VqTBPCUx2PblQtZoy7gyOL2Tpa2C1uGXPT1fQ8pMsgwRhifihnRoV7S2bzEoJgsjQcc8SsSDVCxKgOcbfhuetSX1SY8pVjWfkmrgPeP1bKI6Q1a7Px0UF6-djySM8ZQNrSF1Zw4VsWaT-_16z2fMcO15jFvK5ZDXXp8-bMV5PHRK6oZvMvS1-6FN8v7VOEVuTq8iUQ2EGhYZfe0XS-yTEtLhh8vHMKcSqwQsAZA0AR2bgTB2NjDlB8a-ijy2vW_CjafeGzwcYNovX2z3wF_v8iArSImTRWrJYMaQnqKUVN84SypWPzXdOQzRUsZC4Cidbqsg1oItJs263dBV8HS8GsADY-LQpModVzksgh2GJUZyupGld9xqbkzfNkympVzhVm5gGv1fNZ6_FHkhvFmGomZg=w835-h626-no)
The base is nothing more than PT 4 x 4's arranged like railroad ties and track, held together with screws. It's easy to set up, take down, and transport. I put it on fairly level ground and then shim as needed to get the tracks in plane. The mill is 1" square tubing welded into a simple frame. It rides on steel V-wheels that roll on aluminum angles screwed to the 4 x 4's.
![[Image: j71kIQsh3SS6o7p2NXxaerEcyUKVIusf03NTbTHN...35-h626-no]](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/j71kIQsh3SS6o7p2NXxaerEcyUKVIusf03NTbTHN_vWFo_kc0JDnPjpIUmaPA7xyAxU3psQ2C_JITqIPkNCBULT4jX3DDu8Mz2FzWCacPoHRPETFLPMbdXbenLGR5foMwBh5UsdOmOlearMQIqi3olBO8wSEfyL4WcReRpCg1KV1WuWF4P7W8PxHcHtMnDZhdHusnLDlynbHrYVB2_Nz4nIVBdD_2NBWxiQZ_ba71j1ud5yPiEzKqwRa6T7EVmJE2EIeDE6I1FnBZ6u_pGaoD1snBz_M3W4eTNErEIHVs1-9xUsJa8C0YW7CXqaCBYLbawKPwltpZ6fy8RtiTOlNhJmJVD7r5JJNk2OJvShPmmxxOD_vKkcdWrsQsxIdqH1i9NWJZQ-L6Qi7FCvlZRHeDUQyhYZHhDQiBPtkhctuAIPpMaCdyTGc3oIjRT5zlR3hhKYcrX7YtlbllFl8Fz10AOpn2sH6YeputU7znQ_yyn24A3955WfjgUk9JwpasRk4PpdCKo_2V4pi0C9gs8Gz4Bh6JsYbtKBxJtn_2q9jhZiJJEAFu6S34RIR3d1ZA5w3r1ZIIYo0uUWKRr4LVtvE0Y31wG4zq3dcwVsb6oT3Z92eHxlgwVrNYOb33h1MK0NvwMadCTFYb-_YKwwsY3AsHr9aK4cHwSrgj9mKmTUKaaghOaboQ5IrBMKpZKaYMo4Vqg1O8bBhv93O9gw4UqMG7PMSVCeCqZhMg1mM-wE=w835-h626-no)
The chainsaw is held by two bolts through the bar to arms on the mill that ride up and down on 3/4" threaded rod. It's raised and lowered with a crank, chain, and sprockets. The saw is a Husqvarna 385XP, 85 cc's, and I would not want anything smaller. I've had this saw from the beginning. It has at least 150 hours on it. I've never had a bit of trouble with it and highly recommend the large, pro quality Husky saws for this kind of work. If money were no object I'd go with the largest they make, the 3120XP, but the 395XP would an excellent choice, too, and much cheaper, for anything up to about 36". I run a 42" bar most of the time, as shown in the picture, but for smaller logs I use a 28" bar. The right side mount slides in/out to accommodate most any bar length up to 42". The frame can accommodate a 33" log, 36" if I skim a couple of inches off both sides, and I've done that a couple of times. The log in the picture above is 29" at the butt. I built the mill for a couple hundred dollars. The chainsaw was the largest investment by far. When I bought it it cost about $750. It's no longer made, but the slightly larger 390XP sells now for about $1100 and the 3120XP for about $1750. The 42" bar costs around $90 and chains around $60 each. All said and done I spent around $2500 for the arch, mill, chainsaw and accessories for it. I've milled around 5000 BF of lumber with it now, buying a few more chains and quite a bit of gas and bar oil along the way.
The bunks on the mill are about 14" off the ground so I have to get the log up onto them somehow. For logs up to maybe 20" in diameter, one or two guys can roll them up the temporary ramps using a Peavey. But for large logs you need mechanical help. Whoever discovered parbuckling was a genius in my book. Using nothing more than a cable or stout rope, you can easily roll logs as large as the mill can handle up onto it. I've done it by tying the rope to the trailer hitch of my car, an electric winch on the back of my car, and I finally figured out that I can use the winch on my log dolly.
![[Image: TJwx-IQAYGl8EA4PxaBpONI-8XGiJXqtrQTvebRO...06-h566-no]](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/TJwx-IQAYGl8EA4PxaBpONI-8XGiJXqtrQTvebROT7rXwVLsoLLSWlfXVSicTcsCoqgO9xqNwc0TPrGYmIMPrAM017lyjPvk52Op4scnAV_HAMvivJkavZ3psaeUD9wt_QD_ea3ZZuehdTNcJ5KT8wC8u70UN1yZdB_IxMU3ZLGaacDHrgVjnvGRK8K_jKS6tQhEMmg0JnkhB_IzH1YyR-TdKQnJ6axM-giD-QYlx1TstSMLYGSh5Q89CK5gZIVpTUvQ7qZ7D44Ne1ca1koUCQ1T0GrUzKjxRaNxnZ0cHNExfmIwlp91wiVSpE8SKJJIhrOUN_pvR8RMwunTMKuL_xZgGZYu8OfKm1Pzan602HGOI3dl8_lm3RGZrbdF-3-jHeS_rMd7lDyHNyYaJyVTd6rFdocsukXF_3NsUhx-vzd29EDbQPJG7kIWt4dDu7p7YKWMw3mBsUbCuBCNkdtmbN0-kmfdSZ3fggIR37y-u2af3j7FY6sgRcF8VrP7kLeOiQbNNksOi_5EBzoqsE_U24X-NISYrEiAuIKaKBAXmVVpEhded5ughJu_eafPdpSjRD62sp833yfIeLJshLRXLwiJ2MdJtIs8kOaGCEkGjJj43Z68tDemlG35375kmEbvf1WNCJdByX0juWe-iZiMhXU88MrvpVURKxUy6he1GNbqoG7gTxlptrETJ27My71g2m-AqaU3txm2fBe5ITH3jdvX9spQEReBlvIvjO8=w1006-h566-no)
The rope is anchored to the ground, tree, car, etc., passes under the log, over the top, and back to the winch. When you pull on the winch the log rolls towards it. By using a dual rope the log stays straight, but you can change its direction w/o much trouble by blocking one side and releasing some tension on the rope to let the unblocked side slide back down on the ramp until it's straight again.
Generally, I mill lumber, not slabs, but a guy wanted me to mill this log into 2-1/4" slabs, so I did. It took 12 - 15 minutes and nearly a full tank of gas and bar oil for each pass at an average width of 22 - 24", a real exercise in patience.
![[Image: 14RzZzNHult43QbI044g8RYoZB-ThDrirm4u-4jx...35-h626-no]](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/14RzZzNHult43QbI044g8RYoZB-ThDrirm4u-4jxyZ4vXrvxNgU5lUgKzUeWeD5h6CR1p7qsUQUn5vWzW9-uQUuGwEaULmWEaLHUOX9kpp27nPpfX8lGh1KMTZN0wpS_ssEfoqagENbtUf02AOOAYXmmjTQKbinp9nkM6lkfREhRma95v2J_Xkuk4S3A9n-cPeMKn3DgVVUHmC0TeRcdB3QGcrzqtF3wm_7ckVzTvLyxK1AnwJ9lYvplUeJmj4oBk0K0XjqKOnld7usKKDX-kjPBy7tTzonqjED6RUg1eNCQSmZiupl7IrX7GTNt8iF1jxbFJeCR1BYS8gGKpQtFv_ZNzvi40ArgfQWB--jUfJ4Orhcjdiyi375lYBKO0cn9y_zaDNJ6e94RFS2IKX3xa2QSJ1pWA3HsdkyeC2_XugK8Uf1cHbEdogaE8slu-MUaI3YlxpYLM7mEo9-0dkpB2dox2noYdkQHsdLeiYrqzsduPCA6lVK3T_PAy80gItTVqCAfbPECksvHQjSu2zMa4mMkINKlFqX86Zz1KRRBg5VKNNqs3FC4VQoPxdTtwTHhG0Y_MeoY_JxuU0v8vOf5RXrL0q3-11GDUC3vnE1V7T00-uqqfH9Ed5hukMXjt4ljvv-PChOdPE3aWMK3rO_v8x6xGS2xwOntQiKxrZ6ddSYh_JosHI2GaF5qykAvlFx3eFvN_1JzocW7j5-Rr_NU4UWwGcz1J5lZAVvRZmM=w835-h626-no)
We got about 5 really nice slabs before we hit the first nail. Ouch. Ok, it happens in urban logs. We cut it out with a chainsaw and a chisel, put on a fresh chain and started again. Whack, another nail. Unfortunately, this is pretty common. People nail up something with several nails, it rots or falls off over the years, and the tree grows around and encases the nails so you can't see them. Of course, a metal detector will often find them, and I may just about be to the point of buying one, because we hit another one before throwing in the towel and rolling the log 90 deg. We cut off the bark, and rolled and cut twice more to give us a large cant and put what was the top on the bottom. We started cutting fat 4/4 lumber and got 2 or 3 nice, wide boards before we hit yet another nail, exactly in line with the others. OK, enough is enough. I cut off the shorter end of the log with the nails, changed chains, and we milled the rest of the log w/o any more excitement. We ended up with about 225 BF of lumber.
![[Image: KUdB2s8QgrB-2YPwbJuCmrLRwYbQ_u78BBO17sKS...06-h566-no]](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/KUdB2s8QgrB-2YPwbJuCmrLRwYbQ_u78BBO17sKSt8m3lKUpyMiT0QIcXamV2yoEtqrfI6YptVYJ6RWO8ZBGv4aW6BGf_IO6JWpEvqXpKX8juflTFityEqIjMjkpJBZyimdXFssyzAZzBORsJW2RcvC39_9I04A461Px5ORVWqbdotAZ0A8wjuRTe4dhUzx0xAOGxZT0iCXjv3XQJqgdJVe907D4veQ34j-25NV39XKRW4kL_0qSmnKwUOvaa-F6mULnznZ9dMvPq6f-nLjfZ1t_usbE0taNJzcCAoxxDJiyKGt20yKgEnXSlQLkqLwvmQaZQLo1vZMXYsso3ylKIqrqFqWjetqBfiIWsV8EibNu0x5KkvHUw3gYA4K3Iz332ek5fW7FKL2VHlG629kyGig5Gbpb9L6gAn-vpDUUhs_389dBsyEv87w6RZZjNsjodBiidd5oX35x0HBMS7--jD51tnxZ_0SI0OrSvVoJ63Gu5YDVHczzZcrT5qhB1OrLE4dUQDlYI859Lag12DVICw1Ra3bLo4TCFcyqgrwJszzu_Dr2LIoEkMIq2Z0buqLZUEvF3tz4i_a0RaKsaSotAGlqAa7PnI7kJq5yV6vrrYZJ-x8I-73Q10oMmV484VYfoiMOw4AirAC2-I6dWJcSD-dao3GmPEJ6dDD2iqEc2pk-Y7o2gm_FbcjWJ4viDrLq05mtQDnbgXHMZG0olmed-L84S3hekfRMo4LKcFQ=w1006-h566-no)
I cut the cut off with the nails to firewood length and split the section with the nails only to find there were more lurking in there. It was a good call to stop when we did.
![[Image: V61TfmkaJ12i9b4c0JyoUBC0OkfUHrn6UHWN03mK...35-h626-no]](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/V61TfmkaJ12i9b4c0JyoUBC0OkfUHrn6UHWN03mKyosHvlgTbKOGNgYgeTBpDiQVTSqOwMO-XG7CVBP1mfHRxMrsTT31WTwIpB6aNF5ynf10jw1iQ3oWxzYIZg1KKJavQ0d10ePkciP-Q2Ln79wlrYDz3N3MnLprvwGvulYYAqIi3WWgnX_0EJ8FLoajHT7KapkVSgQYscMZU3ykr3iiANRCErX1tu5gexNBGrJdxrQCcbkoAoq8J8bpnaeO_XEtmnzqwT2uL8zbIls2d0FvKZOYbik4h0D5BIEn5ToqAbkene_Z-LrbrQ7o_iGv7q31flzkdto91Qc2IMKhFCxM8YKZ4ZLrPLbZFcSqsweWBmubvNjAQKfTELdtdQytmVFr9l0pDYV28B4GggsQ4Ikxz0g4hq0LFIAGEdDjUVAxcyOwW9RpHemw5y35GkzjGDBYo81x6Rvs4ynmojVSCwP-1hWmfHjr6ujO4nzwXaMfPAzfF-yb7LRb-H0v_9KkMc9_ibmUPorw7jXBZtRFD0vgleTIvDW8mqChowmfhaFpue2mM02zyErBRkUYzFO6svh8X3eD_kdvNMqBK7Quz7zW9PmHguI6aK_MLARgCv581zjpdeqn-tVcs1qhJSqDtjEAA6pKbXqswtjsycaxA672bSGi7vRK6uzKJPls8eEBjq2Cs-tXmYU1KqOJe1bMN0SoMwLSQpAXL09cjzL1iiQENQqVEJFm5g10bS6c1JU=w835-h626-no)
Let's see if these photos post OK. More to follow.
John
There are several ways to get logs milled into lumber. You can take your logs to a small mill, or you can have a bandsaw miller come to you, or you can mill your own. The best approach depends upon your circumstances and motivations. In my case, I have access to free logs on an infrequent basis, sometimes just one while other times it might be 4 or 5. Most of the logs I get are urban logs, meaning there is a pretty high likelihood of metal being in them. I don't know of any small mills near me and doubt any would be too keen on urban logs if there were, and most bandsaw millers for hire either charge you for a new blade if they hit metal or a resharpening charge, which is completely reasonable.. So I decided to build my own chainsaw mill as the best route for me to mill lumber. My preference would be a bandsaw mill simply because they cut faster, but I couldn't justify the upfront cost. However, I'm still thinking of building one some day.
As said, I get mostly urban logs, so I have to go get them and bring them home. I have no woodlot of my own. Picking up and transporting logs presents its own set of challenges, especially when they are in someone's backyard. Sometimes the pros I know cutting down the tree will get them out to the driveway, sometimes not. For my needs I decided to build a log arch. Originally, it was built for a max. 20" diameter log, but I've cut it apart twice to handle larger logs. Today it can handle a 33" diameter log and I don't plan to go any larger. It can be towed behind a small tractor, ATV, or my car.
A hand winch on the front of the arch picks up the log, then it is lowered onto a chain for transport. A ratchet strap at the front holds it against an adjustable stop to keep it parallel with the ground. The cable is placed just behind the balance point of the log so most of the mass is carried by the arch itself with only a small load on the tongue. This log is a red oak about 24" diameter and maybe 9' long. I built this log arch for around $250 using 2" square tubing and stub axles off a GM X-body car.
So how do you get a log up onto a mill of any sort? Well, one way is not to. My first mill was an Alaskan mill. You leave the log on the ground and mill the log where it lays. I did a lot of logs that way, over 3000 BF, but as I got older I got tired (more quickly) of lifting the mill on and off the log to mill each board and decided to build a rolling mill. Still, the Alaskan mill works just fine and for a couple hundred dollars plus a chainsaw you can mill lumber of very high quality. Here's a shot of my modest, portable, rolling mill.
The base is nothing more than PT 4 x 4's arranged like railroad ties and track, held together with screws. It's easy to set up, take down, and transport. I put it on fairly level ground and then shim as needed to get the tracks in plane. The mill is 1" square tubing welded into a simple frame. It rides on steel V-wheels that roll on aluminum angles screwed to the 4 x 4's.
The chainsaw is held by two bolts through the bar to arms on the mill that ride up and down on 3/4" threaded rod. It's raised and lowered with a crank, chain, and sprockets. The saw is a Husqvarna 385XP, 85 cc's, and I would not want anything smaller. I've had this saw from the beginning. It has at least 150 hours on it. I've never had a bit of trouble with it and highly recommend the large, pro quality Husky saws for this kind of work. If money were no object I'd go with the largest they make, the 3120XP, but the 395XP would an excellent choice, too, and much cheaper, for anything up to about 36". I run a 42" bar most of the time, as shown in the picture, but for smaller logs I use a 28" bar. The right side mount slides in/out to accommodate most any bar length up to 42". The frame can accommodate a 33" log, 36" if I skim a couple of inches off both sides, and I've done that a couple of times. The log in the picture above is 29" at the butt. I built the mill for a couple hundred dollars. The chainsaw was the largest investment by far. When I bought it it cost about $750. It's no longer made, but the slightly larger 390XP sells now for about $1100 and the 3120XP for about $1750. The 42" bar costs around $90 and chains around $60 each. All said and done I spent around $2500 for the arch, mill, chainsaw and accessories for it. I've milled around 5000 BF of lumber with it now, buying a few more chains and quite a bit of gas and bar oil along the way.
The bunks on the mill are about 14" off the ground so I have to get the log up onto them somehow. For logs up to maybe 20" in diameter, one or two guys can roll them up the temporary ramps using a Peavey. But for large logs you need mechanical help. Whoever discovered parbuckling was a genius in my book. Using nothing more than a cable or stout rope, you can easily roll logs as large as the mill can handle up onto it. I've done it by tying the rope to the trailer hitch of my car, an electric winch on the back of my car, and I finally figured out that I can use the winch on my log dolly.
The rope is anchored to the ground, tree, car, etc., passes under the log, over the top, and back to the winch. When you pull on the winch the log rolls towards it. By using a dual rope the log stays straight, but you can change its direction w/o much trouble by blocking one side and releasing some tension on the rope to let the unblocked side slide back down on the ramp until it's straight again.
Generally, I mill lumber, not slabs, but a guy wanted me to mill this log into 2-1/4" slabs, so I did. It took 12 - 15 minutes and nearly a full tank of gas and bar oil for each pass at an average width of 22 - 24", a real exercise in patience.
We got about 5 really nice slabs before we hit the first nail. Ouch. Ok, it happens in urban logs. We cut it out with a chainsaw and a chisel, put on a fresh chain and started again. Whack, another nail. Unfortunately, this is pretty common. People nail up something with several nails, it rots or falls off over the years, and the tree grows around and encases the nails so you can't see them. Of course, a metal detector will often find them, and I may just about be to the point of buying one, because we hit another one before throwing in the towel and rolling the log 90 deg. We cut off the bark, and rolled and cut twice more to give us a large cant and put what was the top on the bottom. We started cutting fat 4/4 lumber and got 2 or 3 nice, wide boards before we hit yet another nail, exactly in line with the others. OK, enough is enough. I cut off the shorter end of the log with the nails, changed chains, and we milled the rest of the log w/o any more excitement. We ended up with about 225 BF of lumber.
I cut the cut off with the nails to firewood length and split the section with the nails only to find there were more lurking in there. It was a good call to stop when we did.
Let's see if these photos post OK. More to follow.
John
