Bevel Rip Fence for the Band Saw

[AgGEM]

Rather than tipping the table. Anyone have any good ideas / done so / know of?
Ag

[Stwood_]

Make an accessory table from ply or mdf and set on your present cast table. Make a way to anchor it down

[MstrCarpenter]

Before I cut raised panels on the router table I cut almost all of the waste away on the table saw using a very tall accessory fence built at an angle. It's much easier than tilting the blade and trying to keep the panel vertical. The fence is basically a right triangle with about a 5" base, 15" tall, and around 3' long that I just clamp to the Bies. fence. This would work fine on my band-saw too, but I haven't actually used that side of the jig on that saw.  If you're looking for a fence to cut your own clapboards, I cheated a little and just stapled a "store-bought" clapboard to my tall band-saw fence.

B.T.W. if you make an angled fence jig, I've found more consistent results if the jig also has a small cleat/shelf for the stock to ride on. Using just an angled fence the stock wants to slide out at the bottom. The cleat, being 90* to the angle, fully supports the stock on both sides of the blade.

[Hank Knight]

Here is a photo of Jeff Miller cutting beveled tenons on legs for a Roubo bench at the French Oak Roubo Project several years ago. The jig he used did the trick and worked flawlessly. You might get some ideas from it.

IMG_0751 by Hank Knight, on Flickr

[AgGEM]

Thanks for the comments.
I think I have an idea.
But there is almost always a better way.
Something that attaches to my rip fence and is adjustable for angle. Couple of 5/4 boards and a stout piano hinge. Some way to lock the angle.
So keep posting if you have good thoughts.
Ag

[bjmh4]

I'll ask the (obvious to me) question: what's wrong with tilting the table? Is it difficult or impossible on your particular saw? I love doing bevel rips with a tilted table on the bandsaw--lots of advantages over the tablesaw.  For one you've got gravity helping you if you position the fence on the downhill side.

Or do you have some particularly unique need for a jig--something that can't be accomplished with a tilted table?  Just curious!

Regards
Bob

[AgGEM]

I'll ask the (obvious to me) question: what's wrong with tilting the table? Is it difficult or impossible on your particular saw? I love doing bevel rips with a tilted table on the bandsaw--lots of advantages over the tablesaw.  For one you've got gravity helping you if you position the fence on the downhill side.

Or do you have some particularly unique need for a jig--something that can't be accomplished with a tilted table?  Just curious!

Regards
Bob

Bob,
I recently installed DC based on Rob Cosman's design, a piece of plastic pipe which the blade passes through. So far, so good, BTW. The DC seems superior to the factory ports but I am using a shop vac so comparison might be unfair. But I would have to remove it to tilt the table. And long rip cuts are where the DC excels, so I don't want to be without it. Also, I am a bit careful with handling the table, once set up square in 3 directions. An example, I never wheel the saw around by using the table as a handle. So I don't want to tilt it. The Driftmaster fence, while wonderful does not work so well right of the blade either because of the protruding head stock.

So a jig is in order.
Ag

[bjmh4]

I'll ask the (obvious to me) question: what's wrong with tilting the table? Is it difficult or impossible on your particular saw? I love doing bevel rips with a tilted table on the bandsaw--lots of advantages over the tablesaw.  For one you've got gravity helping you if you position the fence on the downhill side.

Or do you have some particularly unique need for a jig--something that can't be accomplished with a tilted table?  Just curious!

Regards
Bob

Got it!  The slotted pipe surrounding the blade thing.  What kind of saw is it?  My dust collection is a bit different, in that it's a 4" port in the front lower door, set at 45° downward.  I'm totally spoiled by this very effective dc system, and a rock solid trunnion with repeatable table stops at 0° & 45°. I tilt frequently using a digital angle scale to set the table--I love this system!

[AgGEM]

Got it!  The slotted pipe surrounding the blade thing.  What kind of saw is it?  My dust collection is a bit different, in that it's a 4" port in the front lower door, set at 45° downward.  I'm totally spoiled by this very effective dc system, and a rock solid trunnion with repeatable table stops at 0° & 45°. I tilt frequently using a digital angle scale to set the table--I love this system!

Laguna 14SUV. The Cosman DC goes in directly below the lower guide and in my case, parallel with the blade.
His approach is perpendicular. I have no room for that without hacking holes in the door, and I am not gonna do that.

In fact, one of my trunnion bolts now supports a split ring clamp holding the DC plumbing in place.
The real downside of this is blade changes.
But the improved DC is worth the trouble, I think.

Now that I think about it, Cosman mentioned that he could not tilt his table either with his DC solution.

Again, a bevel jig is the answer. I have been formulating a plan.....good ideas are still welcome.
Ag

[AgGEM]

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