Veritas 05T05.01 saw

[Stwood_]

I've got one of their dovetail saws, one of the first that came out in around 08? or so.
Anyway, I've never been happy with this saw. Won't start...sticks in the cut......
Have it out today, cutting some starter slots in some turnings. Same problems as it's always had.

Got to checking and it has no set.....paperwork and Rob's website says they are set on .003 each side.

My Millers Falls setter isn't going to work on this, as the teeth (14tpi) are so small and the setter is too big....about the size of a stanley 42.

So, other than magnifying eyeware, what setter can I get that won't break the bank?

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/Page.as...at=1,42884

And I'd rather not bother LV as this saw is about 10 years old now. Like new......blah blah blah....

[Handplanesandmore]

And I'd rather not bother LV as this saw is about 10 years old now. Like new......blah blah blah....

I know you say don't bother LV, but that is indeed the best solution in my view, because if yours is like new, it could be a manufacturing issue. Fire an email to their customer service with a photo or two and explain your concern and they will suggest the best course of action to you. Even if you don't have the original return shipping label, they probably will send you one. With thousands of that saw made, some bad apples are not unusual.

If you really want to see if you can fix it yourself, use a fine file and file the first 4 or 5 teeth flatter which will allow you to start the sawing without sticking. Sticking at the start is usually not because of the set.

Still, the first suggestion is what I would do-- contacting their c.s. After all, LV may be able to fix it, and if not, they will exchange yours with one that will work. Their reputation on after sales care is as good as one can get.

Simon

[Admiral]

I've got one of their dovetail saws, one of the first that came out in around 08? or so.
Anyway, I've never been happy with this saw. Won't start...sticks in the cut......
Have it out today, cutting some starter slots in some turnings. Same problems as it's always had.

Got to checking and it has no set.....paperwork and Rob's website says they are set on .003 each side.

My Millers Falls setter isn't going to work on this, as the teeth (14tpi) are so small and the setter is too big....about the size of a stanley 42.

So, other than magnifying eyeware, what setter can I get that won't break the bank?

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/Page.as...at=1,42884

And I'd rather not bother LV as this saw is about 10 years old now. Like new......blah blah blah....

Sellers has a few ways of setting with a punch and hammer, and screw...... worth considering

https://paulsellers.com/2017/07/poor-man...ial-video/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=13C5MWTKfwE

And a bunch of other musings here:  https://paulsellers.com/knowledge-base/s...rbishment/

I've been meaning to modify a Stanley 42 for setting really fine teeth by filing down the striker, might have to grind it, but that's a project I don't have time for yet.....

[Derek Cohen]

I've got one of their dovetail saws, one of the first that came out in around 08? or so.
Anyway, I've never been happy with this saw. Won't start...sticks in the cut......
Have it out today, cutting some starter slots in some turnings. Same problems as it's always had.

Got to checking and it has no set.....paperwork and Rob's website says they are set on .003 each side.

My Millers Falls setter isn't going to work on this, as the teeth (14tpi) are so small and the setter is too big....about the size of a stanley 42.

So, other than magnifying eyeware, what setter can I get that won't break the bank?

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/Page.as...at=1,42884

And I'd rather not bother LV as this saw is about 10 years old now. Like new......blah blah blah....

If the saw is sticking, chances are that there is not enough set on the teeth. 

I do not know the MF you have, but even the 42X needs to have the anvil filed down. You may as well try this with the MF.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[RonB1957]

I've got one of their dovetail saws, one of the first that came out in around 08? or so.
Anyway, I've never been happy with this saw. Won't start...sticks in the cut......
Have it out today, cutting some starter slots in some turnings. Same problems as it's always had.

Got to checking and it has no set.....paperwork and Rob's website says they are set on .003 each side.

My Millers Falls setter isn't going to work on this, as the teeth (14tpi) are so small and the setter is too big....about the size of a stanley 42.

So, other than magnifying eyeware, what setter can I get that won't break the bank?

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/Page.as...at=1,42884

And I'd rather not bother LV as this saw is about 10 years old now. Like new......blah blah blah....

What ppi is it? 14ppi? I use my modified 42x to file/ set my gent saws and they are 20 ppi.

[Stwood_]

Sellers has a few ways of setting with a punch and hammer, and screw...... worth considering

https://paulsellers.com/2017/07/poor-man...ial-video/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=13C5MWTKfwE

And a bunch of other musings here:  https://paulsellers.com/knowledge-base/s...rbishment/

I've been meaning to modify a Stanley 42 for setting really fine teeth by filing down the striker, might have to grind it, but that's a project I don't have time for yet.....

I'll look those links over.

If the saw is sticking, chances are that there is not enough set on the teeth. 

I do not know the MF you have, but even the 42X needs to have the anvil filed down. You may as well try this with the MF.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Straight edge laid across the saw, there is no set. I haven't got out my dial indicator to confirm that yet.

Millers Falls setter is a #214

What ppi is it? 14ppi?  I use my modified 42x to file/ set my gent saws and they are 20 ppi.

Yes, 14.

[adamcherubini]

I've got one of their dovetail saws, one of the first that came out in around 08? or so.
Anyway, I've never been happy with this saw. Won't start...sticks in the cut......
Have it out today, cutting some starter slots in some turnings. Same problems as it's always had.

Got to checking and it has no set.....paperwork and Rob's website says they are set on .003 each side.

My Millers Falls setter isn't going to work on this, as the teeth (14tpi) are so small and the setter is too big....about the size of a stanley 42.

So, other than magnifying eyeware, what setter can I get that won't break the bank?

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/Page.as...at=1,42884

And I'd rather not bother LV as this saw is about 10 years old now. Like new......blah blah blah....

I think saws are interesting. I learned a lot about how people saw when I made and sold saws. Here are some thoughts that I hope will help you.

1) In my experience, working in ww shows, selling saws, and teaching, saw sticking is generally user error.  The saw a woodworker defines as sticking, will work great in someone else's hands.  Its typically a technique problem. Beginning sawyers and folks who start the saw flat on end grain want higher rake angles.  But high rakes slow down saw cutting and can hurt one's ability to hold a line or finish a cut quickly. As woodworkers gain more sawing experience, my experience is that they seek less rake and less set.  Try sawing the corners out with that saw and see if you like it better. 

2) One suggestion is to buy another saw and save that one as a saw config that lots of woodworkers seek. You may find that 5 years from now, what you really want is an aggressive cutting saw with no rake.  (for the record, I like a little rake). Rob gave me one of those saws when they first came out, because I said something about injection molding saw handles on a web forum. I guess that spine is injection molded?  Its a neat design.  But maybe an outlier to some extent.  I think 14ppt is a bit too coarse for a proper DT saw.  I'd try their 20ppt saw next time. Even if it too has no set, I'll bet you'll like it better because it'll be easier for you to start.  

3) The Stanley 42, 42X, etc are pistol grip beasts that don't generally fit on DT saws.  The handle usually gets in the way of the saw vise.  You would want a Morrill style pliers type set like these from LV. Good to have anyway. You can often find old Morrill's cheap on eBay.

Finding a good DT saw is like Harry Potter's wand shop. The saw needs to find the sawyer. The two have to bond.  Not always easy. The problem I had was I'd make a saw for someone, knowing they were just getting into dovetails sawing that I wouldn't like.  I worried as they gained experience, they would prefer something else later.  IIRC, I had this discussion with Rob. I thought he made an entry level priced saw that really catered to more experienced sawyers. As I recall, he was good with that. BTW, I suspect yours with no set was a manufacturing escape. Mine did have set and was one of the first.

[CStan]

Lee Valley sells a saw set for fine-toothed saws:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.as...3072,43086

These look exactly like Somax saw sets to me.

[Rob Young]

Lee Valley sells a saw set for fine-toothed saws:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.as...3072,43086

These look exactly like Somax saw sets to me.

those are out of stock and will probably remain so (they are Somax) as I believe Somax has stopped making them or went out of business.

They are based on the Eclipse 77 style of set and those have no problems doing 14tpi.

Steve -- I'm not sure at this time if I'll be going to the Woodworking Show at the KCI Expo center this weekend or not.  Frankly, don't need anything and don't need to do any "research" (i.e. buy something on a whim and see if I really needed it).  But I've got a couple of #77s and if you wanted to borrow one we can work out a transport mechanism.

[Stwood_]

Adam mentioned those in his post above.
Thanks




I've found a Apex brand setter I didn't know I had, or forgot.
Oh edit. I used the Apex for my WoodMizer blades when I had the mill.