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I don't think it's unusual that you need to tighten up that bar for the slot.
I periodically check my SS Miter Gauge for square when it's set on 90. I don't think that's where SS put the quality into the system.
I use an Incra Miter 1000SE for the vast majority (95%+) of that work. It's set up for the saw with adjustable "shims/washers" to fit to the saw.
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I never considered my miter gage a precision cutting piece of equipment. A sled is more accurate. A chop saw is more accurate. A radial arm saw is more accurate.
But a sled it handy and easy to make and is certainly worth the effort. I used an aluminum framers square to make a picture framing miter gage. I checked the framing square for accuracy. Then I screwed it down on a board for my radial using spacers to raise it up another 1/8".
Then I simply sliced throug the aluminum on the first cut. I put the rabbet on the square and made my cuts. This cost more than using wood, but was very fast to make and worked perfectly. Eventually I bought a sliding table miter saw that was designed for the picture framing industry. (Very accurate, but not very powerful).
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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I'm using an Incra miter gauge on my SS as well, at least when I need the precision. I do use the SS one form time to time, but I always check it first.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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To be clear...I think all miter gauges need to be checked for accuracy from time to time. The quality difference comes in the "how often".
An inexpensive plastic drafting triangle can be a great help in checking for square when setting the miter gauge back to 90 degrees.
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How do you know that your machinist square is "dead square"? 5/10,000ths of an inch is perhaps 1/10th of the thickness of an average human hair.
Yes, we are talking about wood; a natural material given to variation based on environmental conditions.
I still think that an inexpensive drafting triangle is a decent standard that can be had for a couple dollars. One can determine if any framing square/drafting triangle/machinist square is reasonably square using nothing more than a straight edge and a finely-sharpened pencil. Of course, that begs the question of the straight edge: How "straight" is "straight"?
If I'm designing nuclear enrichment centrifuges (which I don't do), my definition of accurate might be a bit more stringent than what I need from my miter gauge when I need a picture frame joint to close up.
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I use the miter gauges that have come with my machines. And I always check them, reset them when I go to use them, as they are rather cheaply made. But they do work, once set to the angle you need.
I've never found it justifiable to spend big money on a miter gauge.
Steve
Mo.
I miss the days of using my dinghy with a girlfriend too. Zack Butler-4/18/24
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020