115-Volt Remote Control For Dust Collectors

[digger]

In the market for a remote control for my 1.5 Delta dust collector. Looking for some recommendations.  
Rockler, iVac, Woodtek, or ????   Do remote controls for outside lights really work in this application ?

Thanks

[brianwelch]

In the market for a remote control for my 1.5 Delta dust collector. Looking for some recommendations.  
Rockler, iVac, Woodtek, or ????   Do remote controls for outside lights really work in this application ?

Thanks

Just received this link this morning...I have a long ranger for mine which works very well...

https://woodworker.com/110v-dust-collect...nt=172-844

[TDKPE]

In the market for a remote control for my 1.5 Delta dust collector. Looking for some recommendations.  
Rockler, iVac, Woodtek, or ????   Do remote controls for outside lights really work in this application ?

Thanks

I don't know what outside light remote you're considering, but a 1.5 hp motor at 120V is going to draw something like 70-140A on startup.  I doubt a light controller is suitable for switching that kind of load.  That's why switches and relays/contactors suitable for motors are motor-rated - it's not just the running amperage; it's the ability to switch a big inductive load, especially opening to turn it off.  Inductive loads don't like change, and can causing arcing across the contacts when opened (switched off).

[Strokes77]

I use the long ranger for several years now.  Works great for me.

[R Clark]

I have the iVac system for my tablesaw and bandsaw.  The main machines are 220V, while my Harbor Freight DC, which is 110V.

The iVac system has worked OK, but occasionally it gets into a state in which it won’t shut off automatically.  In that case, I have to reset the boxes, unplug them, and then plug them back in. 
 
It’s possible that the HF DC 2HP motor has too much draw for the 110V iVac box, and that could be the source of the issue.

If I were to look for a remote option again, not certain I would go the iVac route.  I’ve lived with this issue for over five years now, and it’s not that big of a deal.  However, the iVac is not the most cost-effective solution out there.

Now that I’m contemplating a much more sophisticated dust collection system, I’m thinking about replacing the iVac altogether, either with micro-switches at the machine blast gates or with a long-ranger type setup.

[TDKPE]

If that motor has a real NEMA nameplate, it would have a "kVA Code", "kVA", or "Code" label with a letter in that box, which is used to determine the locked-rotor current.  Every motor when starting has a locked rotor (since it's not moving), so it represents starting current.  Usually F, G, or H, but it could be higher. 

F = 5.0-5.59
G = 5.6-6.29
H = 6.3-7.09

Multiply the high value for that letter by motor rated hp and again by 1000, then divide by rated voltage (115 probably) to get locked-rotor current.  "G" would be 1.5 hp x 6.29 x 1000 / 115V = 82A.  Works for any voltage and hp, as the manufacturer determines which letter is appropriate.  For three-phase, also divide the result by 1.73.

[fredhargis]

I seriously doubt you'll find one of the light switch remotes that will handle that DC, at least more than a few times. Getting a contactor for about $10 and building your own would not be that hard, and give you a lifetime of service. It (the contactor) would switch the DC on/off, but in turn the cntactor itself would be switched by one of those light switch jobs. If you want to buy one, I had a Long Ranger for about 10 years and worked perfectly until I dropped the fob one time too many onto the concrete, then it was done (you can buy replacement remotes, I did not). I replaced it with a Shop Fox, I consider those to be very poor quality...mine lasted less than 6 months before the outlet for the DC fell apart. That's.when i built my own using a contactor (these were all 240V models).

[TDKPE]

You could always use a NEMA contactor with line voltage coil, and control it with the radio remote.  Should last about forever.  I think a Size 0 is probably about right.  Assuming the motor has its own overload protection built in.

[Stwood_]

I made mine for a diagram that Dennis P over at the creek designed. I made a few changes, and it's worked flawless for 12-13 years now.
Used a contactor switch with a lamp control operating the contactor. Has a manual control wired in, as well as 3-4 light remotes laying around in the shop.

The only problem I've had, is that once in a while something will trigger the lamp remote, turning the collector on, usually at might (Lol) after I've closed up. So I put in a toggle on/off that shuts the lamp control off.

Contactor, lamp remote, blank box with cover, and a few wire ends were around 50.00

[Roly]

Uhh.. I'm guessing he means 7 to 14.. 70 to 140 amps if basically a motor for an electric car and your house would burst into flames when you turn it on...

He is correct.    7-14 amps  is running load not starting load. Roly