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(04-06-2019, 12:48 PM)Turner52 Wrote: I have made a lot of raised panel doors and always allowed for wood movement. First time making shaker doors for my daughters kitchen to the space. Panel is plywood. Should I allow for movement or cut to size and add glue. That is basically how I do drawers, so I wondered what the vast eperience here would do?
What would it hurt to leave an eighth? Five plies before I'd trust it not to blow things open.
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You don't have to worry about the plywood panels moving much but the frames will to some extent. I'd leave some room.
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Roll up a rubber cement ball for each side—rattle free.
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(04-06-2019, 12:48 PM)Turner52 Wrote: I have made a lot of raised panel doors and always allowed for wood movement. First time making shaker doors for my daughters kitchen cabinets. Panel is plywood. Should I allow for movement or cut to size and add glue. That is basically how I do drawers, so I wondered what the vast eperience here would do?
I've done it both ways and never had a problem either way. Glued in panels reduce the stress on the frame, substantially.
John
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Close to 50-50. Any other responses.
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I leave a 1/16 to 1/8" to ensure my cope and stick goes together tightly especially if your panel is slightly out of square.
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(04-07-2019, 02:00 PM)WoodworkerTom Wrote: I leave a 1/16 to 1/8" to ensure my cope and stick goes together tightly especially if your panel is slightly out of square.
I do this as well so there is a small amount of adjustability when assembling the frame pieces.
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04-08-2019, 09:23 AM
(This post was last modified: 04-08-2019, 09:24 AM by Cooler.)
I make my shaker doors with 1/2" thick plywood for the panels. I reduce the edges of the plywood with my dado blade, adjusting the thickness for a rattle-free panel.
The advantages of the 1/2" plywood are:
- I can adjust the edge thickness for a rattle-free fit in the grooves.
- I can screw accessories to the inside of the door.
- It feels and looks more solid and the quality is perceived as superior.
- There is little cost difference between 1/4" and 1/2" per cabinet.
- From the outside there is visually no difference. The panel is flush on the inside except for the reduced area on the edges.
I use a full saddle joint for the rails and stiles so I never worry about strength. If I am not painting the cabinets I will often cross pin the corners with a square dowel for aesthetics (not for strength).
Paint or stain the panel prior to assembly. Movement of the rails and stiles will expose more of the panels and a tell-tale reveal will show up.
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