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06-09-2019, 09:11 PM
(This post was last modified: 06-09-2019, 09:13 PM by Aram.)
Has anyone used Lee valley cabinetmaker's glue?
Link
Does it really allow a lot more open time (which I take to mean you can fiddle with the pieces and move them) than Titebond III or Extend? Is it good for joinery?
Thanks.
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Aram, always learning
"Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” Antoine de Saint-Exupery
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(06-09-2019, 09:11 PM)Aram Wrote: Has anyone used Lee valley cabinetmaker's glue?
Link
Does it really allow a lot more open time (which I take to mean you can fiddle with the pieces and move them) than Titebond III or Extend? Is it good for joinery?
Thanks. Click on the "Tech" link under the "2002 GF Glue 250 ml). It shows the characteristics and applications of all the glues Lee Valley carries. Compare and choose the one that best meets your needs. Personally, I only use Titebond III and West System (outdoors) as applicable. I get around the open time issues by doing glue up as sub assemblies. HTH.
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(06-09-2019, 10:47 PM)Teak Wrote: Click on the "Tech" link under the "2002 GF Glue 250 ml). It shows the characteristics and applications of all the glues Lee Valley carries. Compare and choose the one that best meets your needs. Personally, I only use Titebond III and West System (outdoors) as applicable. I get around the open time issues by doing glue up as sub assemblies. HTH.
Thanks. Sure -- but wondering if anyone has personal experience.
Best,
Aram, always learning
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06-09-2019, 11:00 PM
(This post was last modified: 06-09-2019, 11:16 PM by Steve Altman.)
Hi,
I've used it a lot. It's seems pretty similar to Titebond, though it's not waterproof like Titebond III. This stuff about open time for Titebond, even Extend, for the Lee Valley glue - or any PVA or aliphatic resin glue - I'm not sure what to say about that. If you have a tight joint - let's say a mortise and tenon, or a long tongue and groove - and you put it together with any of those glues and let it sit for a few minutes and then try to take it apart - it's not going to be easy. Matter of fact, from my experience, I'd say it could be a struggle. It would really depend a lot on how tight the joint was in the first place. I suppose you could do it, but...
If you're looking for longer open times then you might think about using hide glue, perhaps the "Old Brown Glue" Patrick Edwards sells. Or you could make your own with 10% to 20% urea mixed in. I think you'd have a better chance of "fiddling" with pieces using hide glue. And, of course, with hide glue, if what you're doing doesn't work out right, you're not locked in. Just steam it a bit and it will come apart pretty easily. Then fiddle with it until it is right.
Also, 2 part epoxies like West System and G2 have extended open times, but rather long clamp times and are definitely not reversible.
The Lee Valley glue has some gap-filling properties which are helpful in those situations where the joint is not mechanically tight for whatever reason, and you don't feel like fixing it correctly. I know that never happens to anyone
 - just mentioning for completeness sake.
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(06-09-2019, 11:00 PM)Steve Altman Wrote: Hi,
I've used it a lot. It's seems pretty similar to Titebond, though it's not waterproof like Titebond III. This stuff about open time for Titebond, even Extend, for the Lee Valley glue - or any PVA or aliphatic resin glue - I'm not sure what to say about that. If you have a tight joint - let's say a mortise and tenon, or a long tongue and groove - and you put it together with any of those glues and let it sit for a few minutes and then try to take it apart - it's not going to be easy. Matter of fact, from my experience, I'd say it could be a struggle. It would really depend a lot on how tight the joint was in the first place. I suppose you could do it, but...
If you're looking for longer open times then you might think about using hide glue, perhaps the "Old Brown Glue" Patrick Edwards sells. Or you could make your own with 10% to 20% urea mixed in. I think you'd have a better chance of "fiddling" with pieces using hide glue. And, of course, with hide glue, if what you're doing doesn't work out right, you're not locked in. Just steam it a bit and it will come apart pretty easily. Then fiddle with it until it is right.
Also, 2 part epoxies like West System and G2 have extended open times, but rather long clamp times and are definitely not reversible.
The Lee Valley glue has some gap-filling properties which are helpful in those situations where the joint is not mechanically tight for whatever reason, and you don't feel like fixing it correctly. I know that never happens to anyone
- just mentioning for completeness sake.
Thanks, Steve. Appreciate the input. It's for gluing up a box top. The one I've been posting in hand tools. Getting the top together is a little fiddly. It was hard and I am going to be very depressed if it sets up before I can get it tight and square!
About that last thing, I've heard about that. Happened to ... a guy I know.
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Aram, always learning
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(06-09-2019, 09:11 PM)Aram Wrote: Has anyone used Lee valley cabinetmaker's glue?
Link
Does it really allow a lot more open time (which I take to mean you can fiddle with the pieces and move them) than Titebond III or Extend? Is it good for joinery?
Thanks.
I have used it for years mostly just because I add it to my frequent orders to LV. I have used TiteBonds but I don't see much difference between them with respect to open time. If I have a difficult glue up I go to Old Brown Glue which is much easier to use when you need time to adjust things and it is also a little easier to clean up. I've never had it fail on a joint so that is a plus of course.
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(06-10-2019, 07:41 AM)LongLook Wrote: I have used it for years mostly just because I add it to my frequent orders to LV. I have used TiteBonds but I don't see much difference between them with respect to open time. If I have a difficult glue up I go to Old Brown Glue which is much easier to use when you need time to adjust things and it is also a little easier to clean up. I've never had it fail on a joint so that is a plus of course.
Thank you
Best,
Aram, always learning
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Aram
Just wondering why you would need more then 30 minutes of glue up time which one of the titebonds has???
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(06-10-2019, 01:06 PM)Arlin Eastman Wrote: Aram
Just wondering why you would need more then 30 minutes of glue up time which one of the titebonds has???
Arlin,
Because you don't get 30 minutes of time to pull pieces together. The open time in reality is a lot shorter. 5 minutes? 8 minutes? I don't know. Definitely not a half hour. I've been burned by it.
Best,
Aram, always learning
"Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” Antoine de Saint-Exupery
Web: My woodworking photo site
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