Spalted flame box elder

[Turner52]

I have 3 logs about 3' long of flame box elder 8 to 10" diameter. . Cut green and ends sealed with anchor seal about 8 years ago. They all did split all the way down the side. Stored in my barn off of the floor. Cut a piece today to help me relearn how to use the gouge while sitting down. Thanks Arlin for the links you posted. I am starting to understand how to turn this way. Need for my brain to relearn the process without being able to use body english with the gouge. Back to the question. They are slightly spalted. Apparently there was eneough moisture in the wood for this to happen naturally. They were cut in the spring with sap up. If I would put them ouutside and laying on the ground would the spalting start up again. Might look nice with more spalting.The wood is very dry at this point. I did not expect to have any spalting so I was suprised when I started turning a simple bowl. If this would work, how long should I leve them out

[Arlin Eastman]

I will leave this question to others who know more about spalting.

There is a lady out in Oregon who did her whole education up to a PhD about wood spalting and she sells small vile's of it to encourage spalting.

I know others here that know her name and maybe then you can google her and find out a ton more.

[MichaelMouse]

I have 3 logs about 3' long of flame box elder 8 to 10" diameter. . Cut green and ends sealed with anchor seal about 8 years ago. They all did split all the way down the side. Stored in my barn off of the floor. Cut a piece today to help me relearn how to use the gouge while sitting down. Thanks Arlin for the links you posted. I am starting to understand how to turn this way. Need for my brain to relearn the process without being able to use body english with the gouge. Back to the question. They are slightly spalted. Apparently there was eneough moisture in the wood for this to happen naturally. They were cut in the spring with sap up. If I would put them ouutside and laying on the ground would the spalting start up again. Might look nice with more spalting.The wood is very dry at this point. I did not expect to have any spalting so I was suprised when I started turning a simple bowl. If this would work, how long should I leve them out

You leave 'em moist enough and warm enough, spalt happens.  https://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/techl...d-wood.pdf 

Takes neglect to make rotten, effort to control.  Lay the log down outdoors out of the sun and rotate a quarter turn every month for a season.  Boxelder is likely to go to mush rapidly if the conditions are right, so don't keep the same part down too long.   

Arlin references Sari Robinson, PhD, formerly of Michigan Tech.  She was well up on mycology and just beginning to turn when we spent some happy time palavering back when.  Looks, from her site, that she's finally getting things thinner and better shaped.  More power to her.  Nice gal.  https://www.northernspalting.com/

[Wildwood]

Where I live even wood left on pallet outside in a wood shed will spalt in year or two, on the ground only takes six months. Would not leave a rough turned spalted bowl blank or part of a log on the ground outside or even in a barn.

Yes, if left outside on the ground spalting will continue, if forget it for too long wood might end up useless for turning, just be happy with you have already!

[Turner52]

Thanks for the replies. Sounds like I better leave it the way it is. Might turn punky very fast

[MichaelMouse]

Thanks for the replies. Sounds like I better leave it the way it is. Might turn punky very fast

What's it like now?  Is it worth some risk to gain more figure?  Questions only you can answer.  In any case, leave in the log, don't reduce it, as others suggest.  Bark on, where it might be is a plus.  It's not a question of a week from spalt to mush, but a month or three, so you can evaluate your covered ends to see where you stand.  

   

Note the delignified wood - white - on the former downside.  Wasn't so bad it couldn't be turned, and the bowl sold first outing in spite of my opinion of it.  It was neglect, not cultivation.  This piece shows delignified, brown rot, and "normal" spalt in one piece. When the log sections are rolled with an eye toward evening the figure, some strange things can be done with it.  Sold a few hundred dollars worth off of one stick of firewood, when I paid attention.  Took patience over 2 and a half years, and the species is yellow birch, which has a waterproof bark to keep things moist.

   

[Arlin Eastman]

What's it like now?  Is it worth some risk to gain more figure?  Questions only you can answer.  In any case, leave in the log, don't reduce it, as others suggest.  Bark on, where it might be is a plus.  It's not a question of a week from spalt to mush, but a month or three, so you can evaluate your covered ends to see where you stand.  



Note the delignified wood - white - on the former downside.  Wasn't so bad it couldn't be turned, and the bowl sold first outing in spite of my opinion of it.  It was neglect, not cultivation.  This piece shows delignified, brown rot, and "normal" spalt in one piece. When the log sections are rolled with an eye toward evening the figure, some strange things can be done with it.  Sold a few hundred dollars worth off of one stick of firewood, when I paid attention.  Took patience over 2 and a half years, and the species is yellow birch, which has a waterproof bark to keep things moist.

MM

To me that is quite abit of spalting and do not think I would go or encourage it to spalt more.  Good example.

[Arlin Eastman]

If it was me I would split them in half blanks of what you will be able to turn in a week and sit them outside to spalt more.  You just have to keep track of it every few days to make sure it is not going bad. 

Then when the two are what you want them to be take them inside and turn them.  Then do the same thing again and again until you use it up.

I have never turned red flame box elder but sure have seen some nice stuff guys here have made of it.

Also in saying this I will add that if it does have a lot of red in it then I would not let it spalt to much or it take out the effect of the red color I am thinking.  If it does not have any or not very much red then let it spalt.

[Turner52]

After more replies I am thinking 1 log might be going outside after all. Bark is still on but can be easily removed by hand. Will see what happens. At this stage on the 1 I cut the spalt is not affecting the flame. Spalted area is noticeably softer than the rest, but still solid eneough to turn well. Will definitly have to keep a close eye on it. I think if it works out the dark spalting will nicely offset the flame. The main problem I foresee is how to cut it to maximize the flame showing. Right now it shows a very bright red. Watching the bright red shavings land on the floor was discouraging, so before I cut another piece I will need to examine it closely. Hard to tell exactly how the flame goes thru the wood. If anyone has any advice on this it would be greatly appreciated. With the large split going the length of the log and appearing to be right thru the main part of the flame it is hard to get decent size pieces from such a small diameter. I new it was flame when I anchor sealed the edges, but with the other 2 logs sealed I have no idea if they go thru the flame or not. Would filling the split with a resin work, And if so could I just tape the edges and pour it in or would I need a pressure pot? Have never worked with resin before. There are tons of youtube videos on it but I would much rather take advice from somone here who has used it and can give me recommendatios on how and where to buy if it might be appropriate. Thanks again and looking forward to answers positive or negative on the resin idea or any others anyone might have.

[MichaelMouse]

After more replies I am thinking 1 log might be going outside after all. Bark is still on but can be easily removed by hand. 

Leave the bark on. Helps keep the moisture in.

Guessing your "flame" is the red fungal infestation boxelder is prone to.  Flame in wood figure generally refers to the differential reflection of light as a result of twisted grain.   Most obvious, as you see here, on the quarter grain, like its tighter cousin - "curl".  

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