Picture Frames? Where To Start?

[MoreToolsForMe]

Hi Folks,

My wife has recently requested some "simple" picture frames for art work that she and others do at a cancer treatment survivor support facility! I really want to help out, but as I research, it seems that doing a good job can be anything but simple and/or easy! 
 I want them to come out nice and not look like hey were made by a kindergartener! While I have some nice tools/equipment/machines, I've never attempted much in the line of crown molding and/or 45 degree joinery! Besides accurately making the cuts, the method(s)of fastening seem rather daunting!
 I don't have a real lot of extra funds for specialty machines.

Any Help Appreciated,
Gene

[SteveS]

Being too cheap encouraged me to make some simple frames. Most of them have been oak, though for one frame of my daughter's artwork I got bloodwood for the frame and curly anegre veneer for the "matting".

Anyway, my simple frames are usually 1.5" wide and just have a 45 bevel along the inside and outside edges and a rabbet on the backside. Photos being very light I don't bother with splines for strength, but for heavier stuff like glass, I'll add a pin or spline for strength.

Basic tools; miter saw and router are what I've used. Wouldn't be much different for crown moulding designs.

[MoreToolsForMe]

Well Sir, @SteveS 

Thanks for the reply! It turns out that I'm gettin' pretty lucky on this first go around. She wants all squared edges (no profiles) and plans to paint them! 
 I still want the joinery to be right and I will view it as practice for the "real deal" more elaborate pieces in the future. 
 While I'm not the smartest dog in the kennel, I know what road kill is, how it happens and I'm fairly certain that once I do a nice job on some "simple" items, there will be many more requests, with increasing complexities! 
 Please understand that I'm not complaining, but instead am more than eager and happy to provide some support for folks battling this horrible disease!
 It may also provide some margin of comfort for my own wife! Needless to say, I have felt frustratingly helpless throughout this several year battle she has been fighting! 
 It may even help my own soul, feeling that I'm actually providing some small measure of solace!

With all that said, I'm kinda liking the concept of "V-Nails" and would surely appreciate any thoughts (pros & cons) of their use and pitfalls?

Thanks Again Folks!
Gene

[daddo]

I've spent what seemed days making a fine and crafted special frame and got a "Oh, that's nice".

Then I have made what I call rough frames or plain frames- some butted instead of mitered and got a; "Oh, I love those- make me one"!

Go figure. They are simple now and allow the painting to be pronounced instead of the frame.

A picture of John Wayne got a board off of an old 90 year old barn, the exquisite drawing by some dead famous charcoal or pencil guy got an oak mesquite mix and polished texture. Thin frames are favorites- like mentioned- 1" to 2" respectively.

[Bill Wilson]

Hi Folks,

My wife has recently requested some "simple" picture frames for art work that she and others do at a cancer treatment survivor support facility! I really want to help out, but as I research, it seems that doing a good job can be anything but simple and/or easy! 
 I want them to come out nice and not look like hey were made by a kindergartener! While I have some nice tools/equipment/machines, I've never attempted much in the line of crown molding and/or 45 degree joinery! Besides accurately making the cuts, the method(s)of fastening seem rather daunting!
 I don't have a real lot of extra funds for specialty machines.

Any Help Appreciated,
Gene

You can make simple frames without miters.  You can also route various edge profiles on separate sticks of wood, then build them up to make more complex looking frames.  Doesn't necessarily require any special machines or jigs.

[BrokenOlMarine]

Using a single board in the wood of cholce, I usually cut a dado down the inside edge on the back side, deep enough for the picture, glass, matt, backer, and retention device to "stack.".
Then I decide on my corner style.  Forty five, butted. .. Whatever. 
Then I do whatever fancification I'm planning... Rolling the edges, beading, routing. 
Then I cut the pieces to length and test fit all joints, making adjustments as needed.
Once satisfied, I glue them together, using a band clamp for tension. Checking the corners with a square. 
I make my frames flat, don't worry about complicated angles.  No one has complained. 

[MoreToolsForMe]

Thanks Folks For The Great Replies!

I only get onto "occasional" woodworking jags, so am only here sporadically. The rest of my time is usually spent playing guitar, singing and song writing! 
 Please don't let the fact that I don't often make a lot of sawdust be mistaken for a lack of desire for top quality results. While simplicity made be the order of this particular day, I want learn, practice and hone the proper techniques of traditional picture frame construction, along with all the do's and don't's to watch out for! I'm a glutton for knowledge and skills!
 I also don't often choose to "half-a$$" things, even if that is all that is really required!

FWIW, these frames are intended for painted glass panels that are to be viewed from both sides and no backing board or cardboard. Kinda like stained glass, but much thinner. The glass is just <1/16". goes without saying that the frames need to be fairly rigid/sturdy?

Thanks Again Folks,
Gene

[MichaelMouse]

Thanks Folks For The Great Replies!

I only get onto "occasional" woodworking jags, so am only here sporadically. The rest of my time is usually spent playing guitar, singing and song writing!  

FWIW, these frames are intended for painted glass panels that are to be viewed from both sides and no backing board or cardboard. Kinda like stained glass, but much thinner. The glass is just <1/16". goes without saying that the frames need to be fairly rigid/sturdy?

Thanks Again Folks,
Gene

Sure enough, double-sided, so the central groove should be a reasonably tight fit.  I always put a bit of silicone in to make the material part of overall integrity.  Miters, if used, should be splined or nailed at right angles to the load direction.  I used eyes screwed up top for suspension.  Biggest was 2x6 feet of leaded glass, and still, so I'm told, hanging without a problem.

NB: Be very reluctant, or even refuse to help artist friends frame.  I did precious little else for nearly ten years once they found out I could do frames.

[BrokenOlMarine]

Thanks Folks For The Great Replies!

I only get onto "occasional" woodworking jags, so am only here sporadically. The rest of my time is usually spent playing guitar, singing and song writing! 
 Please don't let the fact that I don't often make a lot of sawdust be mistaken for a lack of desire for top quality results. While simplicity made be the order of this particular day, I want learn, practice and hone the proper techniques of traditional picture frame construction, along with all the do's and don't's to watch out for! I'm a glutton for knowledge and skills!
 I also don't often choose to "half-a$$" things, even if that is all that is really required!

FWIW, these frames are intended for painted glass panels that are to be viewed from both sides and no backing board or cardboard. Kinda like stained glass, but much thinner. The glass is just <1/16". goes without saying that the frames need to be fairly rigid/sturdy?

Thanks Again Folks,
Gene

For what you want, you can still use the basic technique I described, but cut the dado into the center of the inside edge of the board you have chosen, as deep as you desire.  To add strength you can add a spline to the outside of the corner AFTER the glueup, either from the same material or a contrasting wood.  I framed two very important pieces for the family over the years, and the technique has held rock steady.

The first was a serialized lithograph my oldest bought on a family cruise on Royal Caribbean, just before she graduated.  The last time the three girls would all be available to vacation together.  I framed the piece in Teak, which I thought was appropriate for the subject matter, she still gets compliments on the combination.


[attachment=20615]


The second piece was even more important to the family.  My middle daughter was in her high school are class and did a water color / oil combo painting which her teacher wanted her to enter in a state wide art contest.  It needed to be matted and framed.  The various shops wanted anywhere from $300 to $400 to do a proper job.  I bought the glass and matting, and Miss Tina matted the artwork, I made the walnut frame from a very nice piece of walnut I had on hand.  Jessica won at the local level.  Placed at regional, and then found out that all the art was going up for auction to benefit the ARTS programs state wide.  (Both she and her mother failed to read THAT part of the application.)  My women were devastated. 
   When her piece came up, the highest bidder paid $350 to bring the painting home. 
   It hangs in our bedroom, and my wife still admires both the painting and the frame.   What?  
   I couldn't let that go when my gals were so down... and it is a beautiful piece.  I wasn't the ONLY one bidding. 
 


[attachment=20614]


I have framed a lot of work over the years, and this technique works well for me.  Otherwise, I use the shadowbox.  I haven't attempted the angled frame deal, and don't really care for it.  For what you are describing, which I have made in the past for a collector's Elvis album for a friend, the centered dado works great.

[MoreToolsForMe]

For what you want, you can still use the basic technique I described, but cut the dado into the center of the inside edge of the board you have chosen, as deep as you desire.  To add strength you can add a spline to the outside of the corner AFTER the glueup, either from the same material or a contrasting wood.  I framed two very important pieces for the family over the years, and the technique has held rock steady.

The first was a serialized lithograph my oldest bought on a family cruise on Royal Caribbean, just before she graduated.  The last time the three girls would all be available to vacation together.  I framed the piece in Teak, which I thought was appropriate for the subject matter, she still gets compliments on the combination.





The second piece was even more important to the family.  My middle daughter was in her high school are class and did a water color / oil combo painting which her teacher wanted her to enter in a state wide art contest.  It needed to be matted and framed.  The various shops wanted anywhere from $300 to $400 to do a proper job.  I bought the glass and matting, and Miss Tina matted the artwork, I made the walnut frame from a very nice piece of walnut I had on hand.  Jessica won at the local level.  Placed at regional, and then found out that all the art was going up for auction to benefit the ARTS programs state wide.  (Both she and her mother failed to read THAT part of the application.)  My women were devastated. 
   When her piece came up, the highest bidder paid $350 to bring the painting home. 
   It hangs in our bedroom, and my wife still admires both the painting and the frame.   What?  
   I couldn't let that go when my gals were so down... and it is a beautiful piece.  I wasn't the ONLY one bidding. 
 





I have framed a lot of work over the years, and this technique works well for me.  Otherwise, I use the shadowbox.  I haven't attempted the angled frame deal, and don't really care for it.  For what you are describing, which I have made in the past for a collector's Elvis album for a friend, the centered dado works great.


Some really nice stuff there! Sounds like a good plan, although in my situation, the "centered dado" won't work, as I won't be the one placing the glass! I will need to do the dado/rabbet fairly deeply from one side and provide a triangular shaped piec to glue/silicone into place. I'm suspecting that the best plan is to instruct my fairly "handy" wife to put a small bead of silicone in in the corner to set the glass and then another bead to hold the "cleat" if you will!

Thanks Again,
Gene