Climb cuts on the router

[TomFromStLouis]

I’ve decided that Smarthinges are for me but half the time the router cuts are fed in backwards and the box body or lid wants to jump off course a bit. This is with two hands on the box body or lid. The depth of the cut is crucial and best set for a single pass. Any suggestions for more control?!

[KyleD]

I’ve decided that Smarthinges are for me but half the time the router cuts are fed in backwards and the box body or lid wants to jump off course a bit.  This is with two hands on the box body or lid.  The depth of the cut is crucial and best set for a single pass. Any suggestions for more control?!

I had to watch a video to figure what a smarthinge is. Are you using a router table? The demonstration I viewed did show a climb cut for one side of the box on the router table. If this is what you are trying to do then is your table and fence sturdy? is your bit sharp? I have done cuts like that and while I had to be cognizant that the bit wanted to push the work away from the fence- it was not uncontrollable. If you want to get away from the climb cuts altogether, you could move the stop to the opposite side of the pocket you are routing and "drop" the box down on the bit then rout out of it. This would require two different stop set-ups one for each side.

[DaveR1]

I’ve decided that Smarthinges are for me but half the time the router cuts are fed in backwards and the box body or lid wants to jump off course a bit.  This is with two hands on the box body or lid.  The depth of the cut is crucial and best set for a single pass. Any suggestions for more control?!

You could route the pockets in a couple or three shallow passes instead of hogging the material in a single pass. Give the bit less to grab.

Looks like a process I would do on with my Router Boss, though. It would make it easy to cut the pockets in both the lid and the box together and because both the router and the work are secured, climb cuts are safe.

[Teak]

I’ve decided that Smarthinges are for me but half the time the router cuts are fed in backwards and the box body or lid wants to jump off course a bit.  This is with two hands on the box body or lid.  The depth of the cut is crucial and best set for a single pass. Any suggestions for more control?!

Never hog material while climb cutting. I typically do it as a finishing pass and use bearing bits for more control. HTH.

[MichaelMouse]

I’ve decided that Smarthinges are for me but half the time the router cuts are fed in backwards and the box body or lid wants to jump off course a bit.  This is with two hands on the box body or lid.  The depth of the cut is crucial and best set for a single pass. Any suggestions for more control?!

Like the man says - spiral bit. https://www.finewoodworking.com/2011/09/29/smarthinge

[Cooler]

In the video I watched they used a router table.  I think that is the way to go.

https://youtu.be/VEhM9nuUPm8

[KyleD]

If you go with a down cut spiral which should transfer a little of the cutting force down rather than away from the fence, go with high speed steel rather than carbide. The carbide bits can not be sharpened to as fine an edge as high speed steel. In metal working this is not as much a concern- the bits rather plough the metal off rather than shear it. In a more compressible material like wood there is need for extra sharpness to shear the grain.

[TomFromStLouis]

Thanks everyone for chiming in on this. I am doing everything shown in that 3 minute video linked to by Cooler: router table, downcut bit, etc. 

I am aware that lighter passes would help but they would also triple my chance of just one blip ruining the mortise. The maker shows making the mortise in a single pass and this is primarily because setting the depth of cut is a crucial to a proper fit. I think that maybe i should set a second fence on the other side of the box or lid to keep anything from moving much like we do when cove cutting at the table saw. I certainly can't see dropping the nearly finished box onto a spinning bit to avoid a climb cut.

As shown in the video the smarthinge really is a fine product and installation is a snap if I could just iron out this one glitch. He makes it look easy but feeding that climb cut isn't.

[KyleD]

Glad you have a plan of action Tom. Do not be afraid to add the "drop" to your list of routing skills. 
It is safe and accurate if you understand the rules.
1. Good router table and sturdy fence.
2. Remember the bit rotation will push the material back and towards the fence so use tall enough fence to guide and make sure a stop is set to the rear.
3. Set material tight against fence and rear stop and hinge it down onto the bit. then start moving forward to make cut.

This procedure works well for making enclosed slots in material using front and rear stops. I have done it many times and never a problem.
Good luck with your hinges!

BTW, My search engine cannot seem to find any of these hinges for sale. It insists I must be looking for smathings. Where do you get them?

[TomFromStLouis]

His production problems are a recurring theme and the hinges are not now available. Sometime this “autumn “ he says. If and when they become available I plan to pounce.