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I would start with 8/4 material milled down and glue up for the width. I would not laminate wood to get the thickness.
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I have watched a few videos about making chairs. All of the chair makers stated that it is best to use a solid piece. We all know glue joints will creep over time. With the stress on the seats I would go for a solid piece.
I like cushioned seats but there are chairs out there that scream for solid seats - Windsor for sure - Sam Mulloff another. By using the thicken blank you can scoop out the bottom to make it more comfortable.
John
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We need to clean house.
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Yep, solid blank if you can. Best that it is well seasoned/dried and be patient with it during initial milling so you don't make a banana seat. Those belong on 1970's bicycles...
A slip-seat style chair would use less material and affords the opportunity to "refresh" the look of the chair by changing out the material once in a while.
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Finding 8/4 anything in that width is not easy for me, let alone cherry. I think glued up for width is gonna have to be my choice.
Thanks for the input.
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10-01-2019, 01:08 PM
(This post was last modified: 10-02-2019, 06:02 AM by R Clark.
Edit Reason: Correct typo
)
I've done a few chairs. Never had an issue with the glue-up to get the desired width, and the newest of those chairs is now 6 years old.
For chair seats with underlying structure as shown in your picture, I don't think there would be an issue with 4/4 stock. 8/4 if you want, I suppose, but that would be for the look you desire and not necessarily strength.
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Thanks to all. The 8/4 may well be overkill and I can certainly save a few bucks by using 6/4 and glue up the blanks.
Sounds like a plan.