On a table saw what causes blade burn?

[stoppy]

I'm not a big table saw user yet.  Just cleared all the turning blanks off of it a couple weeks ago. Cutting hard maple into 1.25" strips. Near the end of a cut the blade burns one side of the cut. Fence is parallel to the blade. What am I doing wrong?  I'm using a push stick.

[fredhargis]

A lot of folks open the back end of their fence up a few thousandths to prevent burn, I've done that and it works....but then so does having the blade perfectly parallel. Is it burning on the fence side? Were you using a splitter/riving knife? Sometimes the wood just squeezes a little at the end of the cut causing it. tere's probably several dozen other reasons that escape me right now (or ones I don't know about), but if it's just light burning, I wouldn't worry about it.

[meackerman]

A few causes.....dirty blade, dull blade, wrong/inconsistent feed rate, board rotating just a bit at the end of the cut.

[Bill Lyman]

I am certain you have thought of this, but I will ask it because we all tend to focus on things and forget others: are you using a quality blade and is it sharp? I had some hard maple burn last week. Changed the blade and it quit burning. Sent the first blade to the sharpener. Other than that, I agree with Fred Hargis.

[stoppy]

It is a Freud Diablo Blade, newly professionally sharpened.
I'm not using a riving knife.
I suppose I could try and look up via the serial number but it is a very old Craftsman 10 in table saw. I've owned it for over 20 years. The guy I bought it from had it at least that many years.

[dg152]

Those old Craftsman table saws are great starter saws. I, along with thousands of others, have made a bunch of projects with those babies. The biggest issue I had with mine it that was under powered especially when cutting through hardwoods such as maple, oak, cherry and walnut. My mistake which often resulted in burn was trying to feed wood too quickly through the blade. As others have suggested make sure your blade is parallel to the fence then adjusting slightly outward at the back. Sounds like you're using a good, sharp blade. With some practice I'm guessing your technique will improve to the point that you won't get any blade burn. Have fun!

[greenacres2]

Dirty, dull and pinching are all candidates as mentioned. Dirty may not be visible, like pine pitch it--but the sap build-up still happens and cleaning blades often really helps. In addition, some woods have the tendency to burn more than others--most maples and cherry being among them.
earl

[Willyou]

All of the above. Also, make or buy a feather board. They help hold your work firmly against the fence and help prevent kick-back.

[Dumb_Polack]

All of the above. Also, make or buy a feather board. They help hold your work firmly against the fence and help prevent kick-back.

Don't tell anyone, but this past weekend I installed a blade backwards and it burned like hail!!!

Can I get an "Amen" from the other fellers here who have done this???

[Turner52]

Have not installed a blade backwards YET. When I bought my saw 45 years ago I assembled it and was so excited to have one I imediatly had to try it out. Didnt cut at all and smoked like crazy. Totally bummed out and wondered what the $%^^& was wrong Went thru all of the assembly directions again trying to find out what I had done wrong. Couldnt find anything, Tried again and same thing happened. As the blade was slowing down I noticed it was running backward. Trust me they do not cut that way. Actually kind of surprised it did't kick back on me, Looked at the manual and had to change a few wires around and then worked great. Still have the saw. Only update is a 52" biesmeir fence. Saw was brand new. Somebody apparently speced out the wrong rotation on it. Should not have to rewire a new saw.