Problem with a sagging door...

[Enigmatic]

I have a standard steel sided residential door on the back of my home.
It has sagged to the point we need to use a pry bar to lift up the lock set side of the door (opposite the hinges)
to engage the deadbolt lock.
I tried to enlarge the deadbolt strike plate at first, but that didn't work.
Then, I took off the bottom hinge on the door & shimmed it out a bit, but that didn't work either.

Can someone help me fix this darn door?
What exactly do I need to do?
The reveal in the frame is pretty close all around, so I don't think the door is warped.
At least my level tells me it isn't warped.

What's going on here that I'm missing?

Please help.
Thanks a bunch.

[WoodTinker]

I have a standard steel sided residential door on the back of my home.
It has sagged to the point we need to use a pry bar to lift up the lock set side of the door (opposite the hinges)
to engage the deadbolt lock.
I tried to enlarge the deadbolt strike plate at first, but that didn't work.
Then, I took off the bottom hinge on the door & shimmed it out a bit, but that didn't work either.

Can someone help me fix this darn door?
What exactly do I need to do?
The reveal in the frame is pretty close all around, so I don't think the door is warped.
At least my level tells me it isn't warped.

What's going on here that I'm missing?

Please help.
Thanks a bunch.

Sounds like a hinge problem. If it is not the door, it has to be the hinge.

Can you lift the door up and notice any wiggle in the hinge? 

Where/how is it binding?

[Phil Thien]

I removed the trim on the hinge side, and swapped two of the top wood screws with machine screws that are threaded into wing nuts I inserted into holes I drilled in the stud.

Has never budged since.

[CLETUS]

The reveal in the frame is pretty close all around

Define "pretty close".

First, take your level and place it on the hinge side and take a picture of the bubble.

Next, take your level and place it on the latch side and take a picture of the bubble.

Then take accurate measurements of the opening at the top and bottom of the frame.

Finally, post all of that here.

Or you could take some 3"or 4" screws and run them through the hinge holes and see if that sucks the door frame to the jack stud.

[jteneyck]

Steel doors don't sag so it has to be related to the hinges or frame.  It's hard to believe the reveal is consistent all the way around if the deadbolt won't engage, assuming it did back when it was installed.  As suggested, put a good long level on the hinge frame and see if it's truly plumb.  If it is, then check the head frame for level.  If both are perfect then the top hinge must have pulled away from the mortise in the frame or door itself or on or more hinges has worn badly.  Fix whatever's wrong.  If the hinge frame isn't truly plumb then make it so.  You can often coax it plumb by removing the hinges and driving screws, and/or by replacing one of more of the hinge screws with ones long enough to engage the stud.  Sometimes you can cut a moritse a little deeper where needed, or add shims under a hinge to pad out a mortise enough to tilt the door to get the lockside to line up.  Take it slow and correct what the door tells you needs to be.  


John

[mike4244]

I have a standard steel sided residential door on the back of my home.
It has sagged to the point we need to use a pry bar to lift up the lock set side of the door (opposite the hinges)
to engage the deadbolt lock.
I tried to enlarge the deadbolt strike plate at first, but that didn't work.
Then, I took off the bottom hinge on the door & shimmed it out a bit, but that didn't work either.

Can someone help me fix this darn door?
What exactly do I need to do?
The reveal in the frame is pretty close all around, so I don't think the door is warped.
At least my level tells me it isn't warped.

What's going on here that I'm missing?

Please help.
Thanks a bunch.


Look at the head jamb, is the gap  the same across the top of the door? If the gap is not parallel the jamb may need a shim.  If this solves the problem then install screws in the jamb or nail the trim to the door jamb and thru to studs. If you fasten thru the jamb face itself without a shim behind it then you might cause it to belly.
Lets say the jamb is reasonably level and plumb. Open the door , shim the door bottom til it is snug. Check the hinge ,there may be play in the knuckles. Sometimes you can see metal dust on the floor or threshold. If the knuckles  are worn replace the hinges and use longer screws. Any old longer screws won't work. The heads have to fit in the countersink. If you have a decent hardware store they have the correct screws.  Remove the screws from the hinges and lay the door on the lockside edge . Remove all hinges and replace with new ones .
Usually the middle and lower hinge will be fine with the screws supplied, Top hinge I would use longer screws in the door and the jamb.
Probably have to drill a deeper hole for the longer screws, use a drill about 2/3 the diameter of the screws. Wax, paraffin, soap etc helps lubricate the screws. Have someone assist you to hang the door. Make two blunt end wedges to put under the door to get it to height. 
Pop top hinge into mortise and screw with longer screws. Then pop the bottom leaf in and screw with the ones that came with hinges.
If the middle leaf is a problem then loosen the screws in the door about 1/8".  Screw the middle hinge into the jamb and tighten up the middle screws in the door. Tap the blunt end of wedges to release them. That is why I said blunt ends of wedges. Close door, check margin , strike plate too. 
You may have to do a bit of shimming. I am assuming you have little experience in hanging doors. If I am wrong I am sorry and just don't bother reading the rest.
The cardboard the hinge box came in is perfect for shims. Cut one piece about 1/8" less then the hinge height. Then with a utility knife cut thru 3/16" wide if you only need one shim. Knife a cut 3/16" wide but not thru, fold and cut thru for two shims. Three shims , knife partly thru , fold into a 3 fold shim and then cut thru the cardboard.
To raise the lock side up , Loosen the middle screws about 1/8", then loosen the screws on the bottom hinge and place a shim under the leaf only at the mortises closed edge , not in the middle. You may have to remove the leaf from the jamb if you are having trouble. I never needed to do this but it may help, a drop of wonder glue will hold the  shim in place. Sets up quick. How many shims to use is just a best guess. Screw the bottom screws in tight starting with the outside ones first . The middle screws often are just snugged up, unless the margin tells you different. If you need to push the door down then the shims go on the open edge of the mortise. 

mike

[Snipe Hunter]

Cheap hinges can bend from the weight of the door. Try swapping the top hinge with the bottom hinge and see what happens. If you have the same problem, it's not the hinges. If you have the opposite problem, replace the hinges.

[fixtureman]

When you swap them out shim the bottom hinge and use 3 inch screws in the top one

[Enigmatic]

Thanks for the tips so far. I will check one thing at a time & see what happens.

[Bob10]

Thanks for the tips so far. I will check one thing at a time & see what happens.

Any chance you have some swelling in the floor?