#16
[attachment=21418]Hi all.  I'm in the midst of preparing to repaint my 140 yr. old Victorian era home.  The house has the typical lap and gap wooden siding and we've pulled off most all of the calk as part of the prep to repaint.  I would believe that these homes originally way back when didn't have any calk or calk like products, but instead depended on the lap and gap grooves to repel water.  And, this allowed the home to breath and not trap moisture - at least that is what I  think.  So, should I calk horizontally along the lap and gap joints?  I will calk vertically where the boards meet the trim.  My painters are all for calking everything up tight, but I'm not so sure.  How about you Old House Guys?  What say you?
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#17
Pictures may help.
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#18
(10-28-2019, 04:05 PM)TFM Wrote: Hi all.  I'm in the midst of preparing to repaint my 140 yr. old Victorian era home.  The house has the typical lap and gap wooden siding and we've pulled off most all of the calk as part of the prep to repaint.  I would believe that these homes originally way back when didn't have any calk or calk like products, but instead depended on the lap and gap grooves to repel water.  And, this allowed the home to breath and not trap moisture - at least that is what I  think.  So, should I calk horizontally along the lap and gap joints?  I will calk vertically where the boards meet the trim.  My painters are all for calking everything up tight, but I'm not so sure.  How about you Old House Guys?  What say you?

I would not do the bottom lap if its reasonably tight.  The sides where they meet trim... yes.
WoodNET... the new safespace
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#19
I've never seen Tommy Silva, et al, talk about caulking the bottom seam of lap siding, only the ends where they butt against the trim.  Seems like all that would do is trap moisture.  

John
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#20
(10-28-2019, 05:33 PM)Splinter Puller Wrote: I would not do the bottom lap if its reasonably tight.  The sides where they meet trim... yes.

+1
Steve

Mo.



I miss the days of using my dinghy with a girlfriend too. Zack Butler-4/18/24


 
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
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#21
(10-28-2019, 06:21 PM)Stwood_ Wrote: +1

So are you saying no calk at all on any horizontal boards?  Because one boards' bottom abuts another boards' top....

On another note:  If we could all paint when the boards are very dry and most shrunk across the grain we'd be assured that future shrinkage and expansion with painted  boards would not show bare wood.  In the real world am I overthinking this?  I'd hate to paint now and in some months when it's dry(er) see unpainted horizontal board edges.
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#22
(10-28-2019, 08:30 PM)TFM Wrote:  I'd hate to paint now and in some months when it's dry(er) see unpainted horizontal board edges.


It's going to happen. 

Also, the word is caulk.
Mark

I'm no expert, unlike everybody else here - Busdrver


Nah...I like you, young feller...You remind me of my son... Timberwolf 03/27/12

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#23
The bottom lap has to move. No caulk there. Do caulk the ends. Caulk has been around for a long long time.
Neil Summers Home Inspections




" What would Fred do?"

... CLETUS











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#24
No matter what you do, the wood will move, the paint will spot peel and the home will need painting again- sooner than you think. Caulking will just push out and look bad at the horizontal seams.

I had no particular interest in "historic" reference to my home so I covered it with vinyl. Not going to worry about painting in my older age- ever again! I'd rather go fishing.
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#25
Thanks for all the responses guys. I'm not going to CAULK the horizontal edges, but everything else, and not worry about the paint issue.
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To calk or not to calk......THAT is the question


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