#29
EDITED: Just added the review.

Recently took delivery of this beast and thought I would summarize my experience so far. Here goes:

Tractor Trailer: driver had to back up full size tractor trailer up very narrow and fairly steep driveway. Luckily, he was an ace driver, and
made the whole thing look easy.

[Image: 00Z0Z_1E4jJiw0HAo_600x450.jpg]

I was desperately hoping that the box and skid arrived un-mangled, and it did. Apparently SCM is using a new approach to
these shipments: they contract with the shipper for something called "head loading" which puts the item in the front of the trailer
and it supposedly is not moved again until it gets to your depot. I checked with the shipping company to confirm this and they did confirm that this is how it was done.  Box looked pristine!

[Image: 00505_2XveMAMut6d_600x450.jpg]

Time to check the contents: just because the box looked good is no reason to not assume the machine inside was a smoldering mess!
Once again, luck was on my side: machine looked pristine. Plastic blocks used to keep machine from moving around on pallet were all in place, all additional parts were securely held in place with blocking. So far, looking good.

[Image: 00S0S_8z1AtG6wPwr_600x450.jpg]

[Image: 00n0n_bbLsjOabdIE_50x50c.jpg]

[Image: 00f0f_fHVypNrGJmt_600x450.jpg]

The machine comes with casters already attached, but I needed to figure out how to get this 1000 lb machine off the pallet first.  I
decided to use the ramp approach, ripping a 2 x 6 on a diagonal on the bandsaw to make two support for the ramp. Then I used some
3/4" CDX for the ramp, using a fair number of screws to make sure it did not come apart while the machine was in motion: worked great!

[Image: 00a0a_i5CuXr98PQ3_600x450.jpg]

[Image: 00j0j_59CsWO3Ec8p_600x450.jpg]

And here it is in its new home:

[Image: 00B0B_asdeGwlA58t_600x450.jpg]

Used mineral spirits to remove the "cosmoline" from the beds, and then applied waxilit with ROS: very quick and easy.

[Image: 00808_gqZAhQDXYB7_600x450.jpg]

Next step was to add power cord (I went with 12/3 SJOOW on a twenty amp circuit and it runs just fine). I'll be posting additional info when I have had a chance to assess its performance.
Reply

#30
Looks good.  I'm sure you will love it.  But isn't a 20 amp circuit too light for that motor?  I thought they had a 5 HP motor in them these days.  

John
Reply

#31
Unit rating is 21 amps, but motor rating is 20 amps. That is maximum current at full motor load. I tend to use jointer/planer at
fairly low load of 1/64", which is at low end of motor capability. No problem on a 20 amp circuit: no breaker trips so far, after many motor starts. Keep in mind that induction motor load is variable, depending on work demanded. Minimal cut= lower load=no problem on 20 amp circuit.


(05-20-2018, 02:18 PM)jteneyck Wrote: Looks good.  I'm sure you will love it.  But isn't a 20 amp circuit too light for that motor?  I thought they had a 5 HP motor in them these days.  

John
Reply

#32
(05-20-2018, 03:26 PM)Philip1231 Wrote: Unit rating is 21 amps, but motor rating is 20 amps.  That is maximum current at full motor load. I tend to use jointer/planer at
fairly low load of 1/64", which is at low end of motor capability.  No problem on a 20 amp circuit: no  breaker trips so far, after many motor starts.  Keep in mind that induction motor load is variable, depending on work demanded. Minimal cut= lower load=no problem on 20 amp circuit.  

You should follow the recommendations in your owner's manual and/or the NEC.  You need a 30 amp breaker and 10/3 wire on a motor drawing 20 FLA. 

Circuits aren't sized based on user habits.   

John
Reply

#33
Trying to avoid getting into the usual electrical argument: 12/3 cord is rated for 25 amps (2 current carrying conductors) , so power cord meets underwriters (UL) requirements. . Shop wiring, which is 12/2 plus ground is protected by 20 amp breaker, meeting NEC requirements. I choose to operate under these conditions: others may have different interpretations of requirements.


(05-20-2018, 05:29 PM)jteneyck Wrote: You should follow the recommendations in your owner's manual and/or the NEC.  You need a 30 amp breaker and 10/3 wire on a motor drawing 20 FLA. 

Circuits aren't sized based on user habits.   

John
Reply

#34
Glad I'm not a truck driver...

(and the J/P looks good in your shop!)

Matt
Reply
#35
(05-20-2018, 05:41 PM)Philip1231 Wrote: Trying to avoid getting into the usual electrical argument:  12/3 cord is rated for 25 amps (2 current carrying conductors) , so power cord meets underwriters (UL) requirements. .  Shop wiring, which is 12/2 plus ground is protected by 20 amp breaker, meeting NEC requirements.  I choose to operate under these conditions: others may have different interpretations of requirements.  

Enjoy the machine.

John
Reply

#36
John: After thinking about this a little bit, I have decided that you are completely right, and I am completely wrong. I think there is an old saying that says something to the effect that you have to understand the rules and the basis for the rules before you can break those rules. My approach to wiring this machine (might) not be completely according to Hoyle, but for me it is safe. For others, maybe not so much. I retract my earlier argument and suggest to readers that you follow John's advice. Best, Phil


(05-20-2018, 09:06 PM)jteneyck Wrote: Enjoy the machine.

John
Reply
#37
Glad it made it to your shop in one nice piece. Enjoy.
Reply

#38
(05-21-2018, 06:54 AM)EvilTwin Wrote: Glad it made it to your shop in one nice piece.  Enjoy.

Looks awesome, hope it performs well.  I look forward to hearing the review of how it works.
Reply
SCM Minimax FS41 Elite Jointer/Planer:THE REVIEW


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 2 Guest(s)

Product Recommendations

Here are some supplies and tools we find essential in our everyday work around the shop. We may receive a commission from sales referred by our links; however, we have carefully selected these products for their usefulness and quality.