Electrical run ideas needed

[Scouter]

I want to run a new outlet off of an existing one in my kitchen, need to go through 3 studs. Here's the problems:

- The attic is sealed off, so I can't go up
- It's an addition sitting on top of a concrete slab, so I can't go down
- The space between the studs are filled with fiberglass insulation, so going through is going to be a PIA

I don't know if this idea is code or not, can I use a router to open a channel from the existing outlet to the new one, run the wire, then plaster over the opening? My thought was to use a bit to open the channel just wide enough for the wire, just deep enough to reach the studs. I'm not real good with drywall, so opening it up large, filling in with drywall, then mudding it up so the seam doesn't show would be difficult for me. Filling in a small channel with plaster would be much easier for me.

Any other ideas?

[Woodworm!]

cut a channel in the drywall drill through the studs to run the wire, not up to code to run the wire on top of the stud and drywall.

[Scouter]

cut a channel in the drywall drill through the studs to run the wire, not up to code to run the wire on top of the stud and drywall.

Even if it's in conduit?

[srv52761]

I

Even if it's in conduit?

From NEC. 300.4 (F)
F) Cables and Raceways Installed in Shallow Grooves.
Cable- or raceway-type wiring methods installed in a
groove, to be covered by wallboard, siding, paneling, car-
peting, or similar finish, shall be protected by 1.6 mm (1⁄16
in.) thick steel plate, sleeve, or equivalent or by not less
than 32-mm (11⁄4-in.) free space for the full length of the
groove in which the cable or raceway is installed.
Exception No. 1: Steel plates, sleeves, or the equivalent
shall not be required to protect rigid metal conduit, inter-
mediate metal conduit, rigid nonmetallic conduit, or elec-
trical metallic tubing.

Edit: One purpose of conduit fill calculation is to ensure the conductors can dissipate heat. Immediately covering the conduit with plaster or such will affect its ability to dissipate that heat. Depending on wattage drawn, the conduit may be a different temp. This will not be a safety issue, but it may be an issue wrt causing the plaster patch to form cracks. They make a spackle specifically designed to have a modicum of flex. I can’t remember the name, but I used it to repair a recurring ceiling wallboard crack caused by roof truss flex under heavy snow loads. It was reasonably successful.

Edit 2: consider removing the baseboard, fish the cable down to below the baseboard,(only have to go the 12-14” through the batt insulation, a stiff wire would suffice), cut a 1 1/2” wide channel in the sheetrock, rout a 3/4” wide by 1/2” deep dado at each stud below baseboard height, fish the cable up to your old work box, cover the channel with 1/16”x1 1/2” strap steel, replace the baseboard. If you want you could cover the strap steel with 3/8” sheetrock, but who would ever see it?

[Scouter]

Okay, so I can do this if I used metal conduit, great. That solves my problem. Thanks.

[Snipe Hunter]

Why are you using conduit? Also, why it your attic sealed?

Sounds like it's an exterior wall. Usually there's not enough room near the eaves in the attic to get in there and drill and pull wire anyway.

I usually remove the baseboard, cut out the sheetrock behind it, making sure it isn't cut above the baseboard. Drill my stud holes, fish the wire from the existing box, down to the open studs, through the holes I drilled in the studs and up to my new box. Screw a new piece of sheetrock and cover it with the baseboard.

[Scouter]

Why are you using conduit? Also, why it your attic sealed?

Sounds like it's an exterior wall. Usually there's not enough room near the eaves in the attic to get in there and drill and pull wire anyway.

I usually remove the baseboard, cut out the sheetrock behind it, making sure it isn't cut above the baseboard. Drill my stud holes, fish the wire from the existing box, down to the open studs, through the holes I drilled in the studs and up to my new box. Screw a new piece of sheetrock and cover it with the baseboard.

Yeah, I've done that as well, a decent option. However, this is a kitchen, the outlets are 4' up from the floor with cabinets and a built-in oven in the way. Doing it that way would involve disconnecting water and gas lines, way too much trouble. It's not an easy situation, which is why the thought of a channel came to mind - a lot less time and effort. Adding a conduit is still easier, or even opening the channel up enough to install metal strapping.

[srv52761]

Yeah, I've done that as well, a decent option. However, this is a kitchen, the outlets are 4' up from the floor with cabinets and a built-in oven in the way. Doing it that way would involve disconnecting water and gas lines, way too much trouble. It's not an easy situation, which is why the thought of a channel came to mind - a lot less time and effort. Adding a conduit is still easier, or even opening the channel up enough to install metal strapping.

If you’re not confident of your drywall repair skills, you might still consider the hide the chase concept.  A piece of decorative moulding is easy and clean looking.  Extend it the entire wall or section so as to show it is indeed a design element.  Allows you to add not just one outlet but several.

[Robert Adams]

Run it in conduit, MC or cover it in metal plates.
 
      I know all about running wire in attics and it is not fun and many attics you simply can't get to where you need to go in them due to low roof lines and insulation. A tip for buying a house is buy one with a basement and a 12-12 roof. If you can't find a house with either and especially with a basement that means you need to move somewhere to a nicer climate that has basements.

[Stwood_]

Is this between the upper and lower cabs? Can you pull an upper cab?
If so, poke a new cable upwards, cut your channel in the drywall, drill the holes in the studs, drop the wire down to your new box. No drywall filling required.