Custom Baseboard Heat Covers

[zoepup]

I hope you all can assist.  Surprisingly, search did not show up relevant results - or I didn't type the magic words.  I have to think someone here made some.  I have attached photos of different style.  My concern is on dimensions and there are conflicting answers around the web.  

Height - Obviously higher than what I am covering.  My current metal ones are about 9".  I will go for 9.5 to 10.  This will also give me spot to attach bracket for screwing into wall.
Depth and length - same as above.

Spacing on the height is where is gets confusing.  I am leaning towards the shaker style with a recessed panel on the front.\

I have seen where the bottom and top space need to be anywhere between 3/4 and 2" for proper air flow.  If I make it 2" that will really limit what I can to with the rest of the face.  9.5" - 4 gives me only 5" to do a top and bottom rail and the recessed panel.

Any ideas/photos would be appreciated!

TIA!

[TomFromStLouis]

I am not saying it cannot be done but this is a very stressful use for natural wood. The extreme heat and dryness of winter compared to the higher humidity of summer means this material will be stressed way beyond what our furniture experiences just a couple feet away. Use manufactured wood products like plywood or consider some other material.

Sorry I have nothing else to add in the way of help.

[Cooler]

Do not fall for this design:


With this design the heat rides directly up the wall to the ceiling.

What you want is a generous opening at the bottom for air to flow in and a generous opening at the top like the other images posted.  The solid top directs the heat into the room.  This is a more efficient design for the heating of a room.

The bottom opening and the top opening should be as large as possible and still meet the aesthetic needs. 

I'm thinking of doing one similar to this:



It looks like the panels are MDF.  I will use cabinet magnetic door holder to keep them in place.  I may use a couple of loose fitting dowels to keep location.  

Door latch like this:

[zoepup]

My research shows solid wood should be fine.  I will use mdf  for panel just because it comes in that width. 

Interesting thoughts.  I can see how the heated air would go straight up. My first choice is a solid top. I never considered magnets and dowels to hold in place. This should ease in cleaning at expense of a solid one piece look (I will need to piece a couple together for some longer runs). If I went with an attached top, a crevice toile should fit in to clean but your design would make it easier. If it is attached I would use a long bit to shoot through top to attach to wall. .

[toolmiser]

I think solid wood should be fine. I think the person questioning it forgot this radiates heat not vapor. Yes it will get warm, but not moist or dry? AC shouldn't even be a consideration.

Maybe I'm wrong, it's happened before

[Cooler]

My motivation for making the covers easily removable is to facilitate the bleeding operations each year.  I suppose I could permanently attach everywhere except at the bleed, but the removable seems like it will be pretty easy so I will go with that.

[DCarr10760]

I made radiator covers 15 years ago out of solid wood, sorta mission style with a lot of square section spindles.  They're for cast-iron radiators, so not pertinent to this discussion in terms of design, but in all that time they haven't had any issues with the heating/cooling cycles.  (No splitting or loose glue joints).  I think solid wood is alright if you take into consideration the movement of the wood and design accordingly.

David C

[Cooler]

I made radiator covers 15 years ago out of solid wood, sorta mission style with a lot of square section spindles.  They're for cast-iron radiators, so not pertinent to this discussion in terms of design, but in all that time they haven't had any issues with the heating/cooling cycles.  (No splitting or loose glue joints).  I think solid wood is alright if you take into consideration the movement of the wood and design accordingly.

David C

Really not much to worry about on baseboard heaters.  All the longer lengths will be run in one direction.  The shorter lengths are small enough not to be much of an issue.

[zoepup]

Really not much to worry about on baseboard heaters.  All the longer lengths will be run in one direction.  The shorter lengths are small enough not to be much of an issue.

Thanks everyone!

[Mark A Smith]

Thanks everyone!

One last entry. If they are going to be painted, MDF will save you money plus you won'd have to plane it or edge joint it, etc. You could also use poplar or white pine depending on what's available. Stain or clear finish - well then you need hardwood.