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(12-14-2019, 11:29 AM)petertay15 Wrote: I am trying to replace the motor bearings in a Craftsman 6 1/8 jointer/planer. Probably made in the 1950s. Similar to model 113.328000, but the motor is not hanging under the machine, it is square and fits inside the iron casting. My question is whether the bearings are even replaceable? The aluminum ends of the motor casting seems to be formed around the bearings so they won’t press out. Anybody have any experience with this? —Peter
Don't have experience with that motor but it looks like they both come out to the inside of the end bell. Take the largest socket that will fit into the hole in the casting (not the bearing) and tap out with a hammer, not too hard, it is cast aluminum. The one in the lower photo looks like it has a dust shield over it on the inside, do it the same way and the shiels will come out with the bearing. Take a magnet and you can tell which is aluminum and which is the steel bearing. Roly
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Probably more like 70’s to 80’s. The “max developed hp” thing is something Sears started around then.
And what Roly said. I’d put a large socket under the boss with the bearing in it to make sure you’re not stressing the supporting structure while you attempt to pound the bearing out from above.
Tom
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Thanks for the encouragement to knock out the bearings. The motor is useless right now, so if some damage happens, oh well. —Peter
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12-15-2019, 06:36 AM
(This post was last modified: 12-15-2019, 06:37 AM by fredhargis.)
When heated aluminum expands much more quickly than steel. Try heating the end bell a little, they may fall out. The heat doesn't nee to be anything spectacular....I heated my Dewalt RAS motor end bell with a light bulb and the new bearings slipped right in.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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Years ago I had a Crapsman RAS, and the bearings started to cry. I took the motor assembly off of the yoke, and could not see how to get it apart. I called Sears teck service and asked to how to replace the bearings. I was informed that the motor was welded together and would last a lifetime and the bearings were lubed for life. The only way to replace them was to replace the motor (which costs more than what I paid for the saw). So I drilled a small hole in each end of the casting and using a hypodermic needle to pierce to rubber shield injected a small amount of EMB grease. Never had a problem with it after that. When I sold it 10 years latter I showed the buy what I did in case he had a problem.
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Previous advice about removal is good.
My experience with replacing bearings in Craftsman tools/equipment for over 40 years is this:
Bearings have a number printed/etched on one of the races. This number is used to find replacement bearings. The numbers are industry wide----except for Craftsman bearings. Matching numbers does not mean the new bearings are the exact match. In fact, I do not remember ever finding an exact match for a Craftsman bearing using the numbers. What I had to do was take the old bearing to a bearing retailer so they could measure all the important dimensions and find a suitable replacement.
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I've tried a motor like that with poor success. The crimped flanges are difficult to remove and the bearings may not go back in the exact position which is critical.
I'm all for trying before giving up though. And yes, some craftsman tools and motors have exclusive bearings for some reason.
I could not find the bearings for a 6x48" 1984 Craftsman belt sander so I had to make a new shaft and roller to fit a different set of bearings.
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Get a needle tip for your grease gun and insert that tip into the seal portion and grease them.
I've saved many a bearing by doing this. Bearings get dry, they don't like to turn.
Steve
Mo.
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