Dust collection layout?

[®smpr_fi_mac®]

I'm soon moving into the next stage of my shop development: Dust collection routing. My shop is 24'x24' with a 12' ceiling.

Attached are two images, one showing roughly where everything is. Boxes with a circle drawn on them indicate casters on the tool. Image of the DC shows its layout and connector location. I think the inlet is about 6' high.

I will run 6" PVC around with a bare copper line inside to carry away ESD. I want a hard drop at the RAS and lathe. Probably a hard drop where the edge sander will probably sit, but between the garage doors so it won't be in the way of their operation.

At the TS/RT, probably a DustRight drop so I can switch it from one to another and to be able to move the hose out of the way when not needed. Also a DustRight drop at the jointer, as my hand tool cabinet hangs behind it (open door visible in the second image) and a hard drop will get in the way.

None of this is in stone; just my initial thoughts and all open to improvement.

On the DC, note the Y. It's 4". I think I should get a 6" Y, one pointing towards the ceiling with my hard piping, the lower reduced to 4" to run the DustRight to my jointer and PM100. The one pointing up will run at 45* to the ceiling. At the ceiling, another Y will lead a run to the RAS/lathe, and the other leg will run the DustRight drop over the TS, continuing on to the location of the edge sander.

Does that make sense at all? Can you point out flaws or suggestions?

[EricU]

better you than me.  I have a full setup of steel ducts for my DC, and almost none of it has ever been assembled.  And this is true of the guy I bought it from. We both have just used hose.  I'm thinking about  it again, since I got a good filter for the DC

[fredhargis]

Brad, I'll comment on a couple of things.  I don't know what DC that is (I don't know what a DustRight drop is either!) but if it can move enough air for a 6" run, then you certainly will want the inlet to be 6". Using the wye to make 2-6" openings will work fine. (put the copper wire in if you want, but it's a PITA in the future, and not necessary. That said, they do help with static shock, but will you be touching the 6" part?)

[®smpr_fi_mac®]

The DC was built by DustKop; they make industrial DC systems. This one was custom built for a paper shredding company but never put into action. I bought it from a guy who had it in his shed for a decade. Paid only $200 for it. I think DustKop told me it was originally sold for $2k or more when I reached out to them, asking about it. It has a 110/220 3/4hp Baldor motor and will suck up small children and pets if they stray too close to it. I have the original documentation that came with it.

https://www.agetmfg.com/dust-collectors-dustkop

DustRight is Rockler's proprietary DC line. It's a system that fits together to assemble lines as you need them. Kinda pricey, but I really like their corrugated flexible hose.

https://www.rockler.com/shop?w=dustright

I thought grounding was needed to prevent sparks and fire inside the DC system. If it really isn't needed, I'd rather stay away from complications.

[fredhargis]

There's no risk of fire unless some metal gets sucked up and hits the fanwheel, that might bring on a spark; even then the risk is on the lower side. I'd skip the grounding. I'll take your word for it on the air flow that DC has, but generally speaking the consumer level 3/4 HP DC won't move enough air to support a 6" duct.

[®smpr_fi_mac®]

This isn't a consumer level DC. Check out their site.

I'll see if I can get CFM details.

[EricU]

that's an interesting configuration for a cyclone.  There are all sorts of good reasons to put the cyclone before the impeller.  I would be tempted to put a garbage can in the circuit in front of the fan just to keep the big stuff out.

[®smpr_fi_mac®]

This one was designed for paper shredding dust, so large chunks of hard debris weren't a concern. The impeller, while aluminum, is pretty hefty; I doubt that anything I might suck up into it will damage it.

[daddo]

I'd seriously consider 4" duct runs. A 6" duct is going to slow the air down considerably and cause clogging in the ducts. The velocity of the air is as important as the CFM.

[meackerman]

with a CFM number its hard to know if 6" or 4" pipe is better.  


I've had PVC pipe for years and never had a spark or fire or anything.  some people have reported getting a static electricity shock from their PVC piping, but I never have.

I haven't even glued my piping together.  A couple places that I bump on occasion I pop riveted the joint together.