dryer vent

[carwashguy]

I have to move the clothes dryer vent in my basement from the rear walkout wall (8' above grade) to the front of the house which is only about 12" above grade.  I am looking for the best outside vent cap.  I need something that looks good, but more importantly has a good seal to keep cold air and pests out.
Is this a good one to get?  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005EGQTU0/ref...B00009W3I4

[Snipe Hunter]

Not sure about your discharge hose configuration but I think those vents add 3 90 degree bends to your total. So you loose 15 ft from your allowance. I'd guess you have at least 2 more 90 deg bends so another 10 ft lost. So now you have a total allowable hose length of 10 ft. Assuming you only have five 90 deg bends. Those things are great if you have a short run to the vent or very few elbows.

"The maximum developed length of a clothes dryer exhaust duct shall not exceed 35 feet from the dryer location to the wall or roof termination. The maximum length of the duct shall be reduced 2.5 feet for each 45-degree (0.8 rad) bend, and 5 feet for each 90-degree (1.6 rad) "bend."

[EricU]

trying to see how that adds more than one 90 degree bend.


Our dryer had a problem tripping the overheat sensor.  I had 2 90 degree bends right at the wall, which I inherited from the previous  setup.  I managed to get it down to almost a straight shot and it so far has not tripped the overheat sensor.  So limiting the number of bends is pretty important.

[Snipe Hunter]

I've seen two similar to that one. Both had a cap that lifts under pressure. One blew out the sides of the center cylinder and then down. The other one lifted a cup type cap and blew back down. The one that blew out the sides and then down has a total of three 90s. One at the elbow, one where the exhaust exits the center cylinder and if it blows down from there, there's 1 more.

Either one.. if the exhaust makes a U turn and blows back down, that's 180 degrees right there

[EricU]

I still am not seeing it, but I believe you.  In any event, I wouldnt' want to add another 90 and I also wouldn't want to point my vent up.  Maybe if it had a rain cap

[Cooler]

I've read that the flexible hose for vents are not recommended because lint will adhere to the interior of the hose.  Aluminum tubing is available.  It comes in the semi-flat state and you snap it together to make the tube. 

Surprisingly it is strongly advised that you do not use screws to attach the tube sections together.  They recommend aluminum tape.  The exposed tips of the screws will snag lint and will create a fire hazard.

I did mine with the tubing and tape.  The tape makes a remarkably strong joint.  I recommend it.

This is the type of tube I used (from Lowes):

[packerguy®]

I've read that the flexible hose for vents are not recommended because lint will adhere to the interior of the hose.  Aluminum tubing is available.  It comes in the semi-flat state and you snap it together to make the tube. 

Surprisingly it is strongly advised that you do not use screws to attach the tube sections together.  They recommend aluminum tape.  The exposed tips of the screws will snag lint and will create a fire hazard.

I did mine with the tubing and tape.  The tape makes a remarkably strong joint.  I recommend it.

This is the type of tube I used (from Lowes):

That was code for my rental property. Solid pipe, taped (no screws), and strapped to the wall in multiple places and no more than 12" from the dryer hookup.

[Cooler]

That was code for my rental property. Solid pipe, taped (no screws), and strapped to the wall in multiple places and no more than 12" from the dryer hookup.

Interesting.  I didn't strap it to the wall.  It seemed very solid.  Why do I need to strap it to the wall?

[KC]

...  They recommend aluminum tape...

That aluminum tape is the bomb.  I think it 'sticks' better than common 'duct tape', and not just on metal.

[WarEagle Todd]

I used that one at our first house and it worked great. It needs a descent amount of air to open the cap.