Remaking cedar fence sections

[Dumb_Polack]

Hi, as you can see, the cedar fence sections in our fence have seen better days, so I've been mulling over remaking them.  Here's my thought process:

1) Since the distance between each posts (I would need 7 sections in all) are very close to 92.5", I'm thinking I could make a jig that evenly space the pickets and puts the top boards (from and back) 90 degrees to the bottom boards.   Anyone ever construct such a fence jig?  Been thinking it over for a few days and it would make the assembly easy and the accuracy darn near perfect.

2) The fence sections right now are "let into" the posts via holes at the top and bottom.  I'm thinking of changing that via a block screwed into the post @ the top and bottom and then screwing the fence sections to these blocks.  (the fence is more decorative than anything else so it doesn't need to be very strong).  This way, when the sections need repainting in the future, I could simply unscrew them and paint them in the comfort of my basement shop....might be a good winter project.  Any issues with my attachment plan?

3) Or...should I just bring my measurements to a fencing company and have them make it?  I priced out the pickets.  I could buy a 1" x 4" x 4 ft piece of cedar that would yield 2 pickets and this board is $3.75.  I need 175 pickets so I'd be spending approx $330 just for the pickets.  I'd still need the upper and lower front boards and Upper and lower back boards so I'm thinking all in would be approx $500.

Your thoughts?

[CLETUS]

Go buy white vinyl scalloped picket fence sections at your box store or lumberyard for $70-$100 per section, set some 4" treated posts and never worry about it again.

[Dumb_Polack]

Go buy white vinyl scalloped picket fence sections at your box store or lumberyard for $70-$100 per section, set some 4" treated posts and never worry about it again.

Believe me....that thought has crossed my mind.

The posts are fine, it is just the fence sections that need some attention.


Also, I could I show my face 'round there parts if i went vinyl???   They'd run me out of town on a rail!!!

[CLETUS]

Believe me....that thought has crossed my mind.

The posts are fine, it is just the fence sections that need some attention.


Also, I could I show my face 'round there parts if i went vinyl???   They'd run me out of town on a rail!!!

At our cottage we replaced the back fence with a white vinyl privacy fence. The fence going to the back yard was replaced with a white vinyl picket fence like yours. The deck was replaced with Trex and a white vinyl railing. Hit it with a power washer every couple years and it's good as new.

I hate painting.

[petertay15]

In answer to your #2 question. We attached fence sections to the posts that way. Works very well.

[Woodworm!]

I have done a few sections, no fun doing it especially the priming and painting.

[Dumb_Polack]

I have done a few sections, no fun doing it especially the priming and painting.

<Ed McMahon voice on>

"You are right, sir!!!"

<EMVO>

For the initial assembly I plan on priming/painting them beforehand.  At least the first time doing it, it'll be a little easier. 

[Gary G™]

If it were me, I’d rebuild from scratch.
New 4” X 4” PT posts every 6’
Run a string level and set stretchers top and bottom—top one about 4” below the top height of pickets; bottom one about 6” off the ground.
Add pickets.
Keep everything out of the dirt and off the ground.
Paint with HPLV.
Drink a beer.

[mike4244]

Hi, as you can see, the cedar fence sections in our fence have seen better days, so I've been mulling over remaking them.  Here's my thought process:

1) Since the distance between each posts (I would need 7 sections in all) are very close to 92.5", I'm thinking I could make a jig that evenly space the pickets and puts the top boards (from and back) 90 degrees to the bottom boards.   Anyone ever construct such a fence jig?  Been thinking it over for a few days and it would make the assembly easy and the accuracy darn near perfect.

2) The fence sections right now are "let into" the posts via holes at the top and bottom.  I'm thinking of changing that via a block screwed into the post @ the top and bottom and then screwing the fence sections to these blocks.  (the fence is more decorative than anything else so it doesn't need to be very strong).  This way, when the sections need repainting in the future, I could simply unscrew them and paint them in the comfort of my basement shop....might be a good winter project.  Any issues with my attachment plan?

3) Or...should I just bring my measurements to a fencing company and have them make it?  I priced out the pickets.  I could buy a 1" x 4" x 4 ft piece of cedar that would yield 2 pickets and this board is $3.75.  I need 175 pickets so I'd be spending approx $330 just for the pickets.  I'd still need the upper and lower front boards and Upper and lower back boards so I'm thinking all in would be approx $500.

Your thoughts?

I made pickets similar to yours from pressure treated 2x6. I bought 12'-0" x 2x6 and cut them to 36" . 4 pieces from 1 board. 
Then ripped the boards 3/4" thick , 7 pieces 3/4" x 1-1/2" wide from each board. Spray painted them first, 2 coats. Stretchers were PT 2x4's
top and bottom. I sawed with a Freud blade that rips clean without further jointing or sanding, Do not recall the blade info but is supposed to be for 3/4" thick stock. Worked well on thicker stock too.
mike

[Ridgeway]

Regarding #3 (materials cost), I bought 200BF of Cedar from Wall Lumber at least 5 years ago for a number of outdoor projects, including a cold frame and a several raised planter boxes.   The wood has held up great despite being outside on the ground year-round here in the Northeast.

Back then, the total cost including shipping was less than $500 total.  I checked the website, and it is currently going for $2.10/BF, so the all-in cost should be similar.