Ye olde MM16 power switch post [NEW QUESTION ADDED]

[Aram]

My 2004 Minimax MM16 stopped working yesterday. I need to confirm that it is the startup switch, and not the door interlock. I confirmed 220V AC at the switch.

Assuming it's the switch, I have a couple of questions. One, I replaced the switch once already (before the SCM days). A Minimax rep posted a very helpful replacement procedure on the Minimax Yahoo user group. It saved a lot of guessing and hassle. That group is no more and I don't seem to have a copy of the steps. Does anyone know or remember what order to disconnect, remove etc? There is definitely a smart way.

Two, the switch is AEG 910-201-211. I bought my last one from Minimax. I've had poor experience with SCM and I'd rather buy it somewhere else. Any recommendations? I see a huge amount of online pricing variations, which makes me suspicious.

Thanks. I'll check the interlocks tonight.

[EDIT] Does anyone know the spec for the door and brake microswitches (interlocks) in case that's the problem?

[Banditt]

I've had switch problems myself a couple of times but fortunately a tap or two with the back of a screwdriver and a blast of air has got me going again. I've bookmarked the following for the day I'm not so lucky, hope it helps.

http://www.solowoodworker.com/mm/switch.html

[jteneyck]

My 2004 Minimax MM16 stopped working yesterday. I need to confirm that it is the startup switch, and not the door interlock. I confirmed 220V AC at the switch.

Assuming it's the switch, I have a couple of questions. One, I replaced the switch once already (before the SCM days). A Minimax rep posted a very helpful replacement procedure on the Minimax Yahoo user group. It saved a lot of guessing and hassle. That group is no more and I don't seem to have a copy of the steps. Does anyone know or remember what order to disconnect, remove etc? There is definitely a smart way.

Two, the switch is AEG 910-201-211. I bought my last one from Minimax. I've had poor experience with SCM and I'd rather buy it somewhere else. Any recommendations? I see a huge amount of online pricing variations, which makes me suspicious.

Thanks. I'll check the interlocks tonight.

That looks like the same starter switch I had to replace for a too small one on my MM FS-35 J/P.  There's not much to it.  Take out the old, connect the wires to the same terminals on the new one.  Done.  I picked someone that looked like a real business online selling it for the lowest price, around $75 IIRC.  Turned out fine.


John

[fredhargis]

Aram, that switch may have changed part numbers. I found this:"The old switch has AEG Part Nbr 910-201-211 and says "16..20A" and the dial was set at 20A.The new switch has AEG P/N 910-201-212 and says "20..25A" over at SMC (buried down in this thread). I can't help...Charlie Plesums detailed some stuff on the MM switch at his website, but it was on an MM24 and his switch is different than ours.  I'm folowing with interest since I have the same saw. I didn't realize that SCM had shutdown the MM site.

[jteneyck]

Aram, that switch may have changed part numbers. I found this:"The old switch has AEG Part Nbr 910-201-211 and says "16..20A" and the dial was set at 20A.The new switch has AEG P/N 910-201-212 and says "20..25A" over at SMC (buried down in this thread). I can't help...Charlie Plesums detailed some stuff on the MM switch at his website, but it was on an MM24 and his switch is different than ours.  I'm folowing with interest since I have the same saw. I didn't realize that SCM had shutdown the MM site.

The smart thing to do is to look at the motor for the FLA (Full Load Amps).  My FS-35 pulls something like 16.8 amps but had a 10-15 amp. switch on it, set at 15 amps.  Of course it tripped out every time I put much load on it.  I replaced it with one with the 16 - 20 amp rating, set it at 17, and all is well.  

John

[Stwood_]

My 16 is a 2005-6, I think. It came factory damaged, dealer rebuilt.
Knock on wood, I've never had a switch problem.
If I ever have major problems procuring a switch if mine gives trouble, I'll probably be looking at installing a 220V high amp wall switch, like I did on my Jet 6x89 sander.

[jteneyck]

My 16 is a 2005-6, I think. It came factory damaged, dealer rebuilt.
Knock on wood, I've never had a switch problem.
If I ever have major problems procuring a switch if mine gives trouble, I'll probably be looking at installing a 220V high amp wall switch, like I did on my Jet 6x89 sander.

That won't give you any protection unless the breaker is appropriately sized.  The motor on my FS-35 has no thermal overload protection; it's provided by the switch.  I have the machine plugged into a 30 amp circuit shared with my 5 hp bandsaw so it needs that switch to provide protection.  

John

[Stwood_]

That won't give you any protection unless the breaker is appropriately sized.  The motor on my FS-35 has no thermal overload protection; it's provided by the switch.  I have the machine plugged into a 30 amp circuit shared with my 5 hp bandsaw so it needs that switch to provide protection.  

John

 I have a 220 20amp breaker on that run. Used for the bandsaw and my 6x89 sander.
It's a 3.4? 3.6? hp (hafta look again) motor. It should break a 20 amp breaker.

[fredhargis]

It might trip a 20 amp if really pushed, but i ran mine (they are 3.6 HP) on a 20 amp for a few years before and never tripped it. They are rated for a 30 amp breaker (the older ones like ours, the newer ones have a 4.8 HP motor).

[Bob10]

I know for furnaces I have installed I have used switches with a fuse in them to protect the machinery 

Not sure if you can find something like this for your application but thought I would toss it out there as it might be easier to find than 
an exact replacement for a specific machine