Help with Craftsman compressor

[®smpr_fi_mac®]

I knocked over my compressor the other day. Fitting going into the large nut on the tank bent and broke along with the connector screwed into the regulator (right) side of the outlet.

Large nut on the tank is 1-1/8" but I can't get it to budge.

Best way to remove the assembly for replacement? Only thing I can think of is to simply cut the assembly off and use a pair of pliers to unscrew what's left of the tube in the nut.

Other ideas?

To add insult to injury, the rubber hose connecting it to the pump tore, so I'll need to replace it. Sadly, the T-20 fasteners holding the halves of the cover on are buried too deep for my told on hand to reach; I need to order another set.

Compressor model number is 919.16726.

[Bob Vaughan]

Heat with a propane torch may loosen things up  at the fitting.
I've had to cut them off then try to get the brass couplings out with an EZ out.  That works about half the time.  Other times, I've had to drill out as best as I can, then pick the threads out then run a die down in the hole.

[daddo]

I'd probably just cut the nipple off, drill it out: just touching the threads, then try and chase it with a tap.

The big nut will come loose. Heat it up and use a impact wrench on it. Be sure if it's right or left thread.



Otherwise, drill it and weld/braze another nipple onto it.

[Stwood_]

They make ezy outs especially for pipe nipples. Run down and buy one.
Is that nipple a 1/4" or 3/8"? Looks like 1/4"

https://smile.amazon.com/Armour-Line-RP7...86&sr=8-45

[KyleD]

That nut you are trying to loosen is a part of the tank. It is welded there to give a place to make the threads for the nipple that was cracked in the tip over. Try to un-screw the nipple. It will probably break off and you will then need to use the easy out someone already suggested to remove the threaded part of the nipple from the tank.

[®smpr_fi_mac®]

Thanks, folks. Appreciate it!

It's a 1/4" nipple.

[mike4244]

I knocked over my compressor the other day.  Fitting going into the large nut on the tank bent and broke along with the connector screwed into the regulator (right) side of the outlet.

Large nut on the tank is 1-1/8" but I can't get it to budge.

Best way to remove the assembly for replacement?  Only thing I can think of is to simply cut the assembly off and use a pair of pliers to unscrew what's left of the tube in the nut.

Other ideas?

To add insult to injury, the rubber hose connecting it to the pump tore, so I'll need to replace it.  Sadly, the T-20 fasteners holding the halves of the cover on are buried too deep for my told on hand to reach; I need to order another set.

Compressor model number is 919.16726.

Kyle is correct, the large nut is welded to the tank. Remove the hose and try to turn the gauge set up counter clockwise to undo the fitting. 
If it breaks instead of turning out then small vice grips or pliers is next. Last resort is an easy out. 
mike

[Roly]

Kyle is correct, the large nut is welded to the tank. Remove the hose and try to turn the gauge set up counter clockwise to undo the fitting. 
If it breaks instead of turning out then small vice grips or pliers is next. Last resort is an easy out. 
mike

Some pipe plugs that were factory installed on large pressurized equipment used a thread sealant that required heat to release.  You may try a little heat before the easy  out.  Roly

[med-one]

Scrap it, anything I have ever owned (except hand tools) were junk, sub-par pieces of s--t. Glad they're heading out of business. My 2 cents.

[daddo]

Like mentioned, the nut is welded to the plug to give depth for threading and so that the plug can be removed. Heating is always a good idea.

 If the nipple won't come loose as is, I doubt a pair of pliers will be successful. But as it goes, try heat along with the pliers or else you'll never know.

 You can drill it out with a bit 1/32" smaller than the diameter of the proud threads.


You can use a thread chaser as well to clean out the threaded hole. However; you'll never really get the damaged threads back to standards and the new pipe connection will never have the strength it once had. This is why I would suggest welding the new nipple in place.