PorterCable Dovetail Jig adjustment

[meanderawl]

Haven't used this jig in awhile and getting ready to cut some thru dovetails on a blanket chest.  Been through the manual and searched the internet several times now and still scratching my head.  I kinda understand the importance of cutting from both sides of the jig in order to have the cuts referanced off the same board edge.  Problem I'm having is how to get both the left and right stops adjusted to exactly the same distance from both sides.  Also the jig indicates that board width is limited to 12".  Mine are 12 1/4 to keep with the the pc recommendation of inch plus quarter multiples.  The 12 1/4 seem to fit vertically in the jig , just wondering if this extra 1/4 "is going to create problems i'm not aware of.  Thanks for any input, advice or recomendations.

[Willyou]

I'm not sure this will help because I am lazy and I cheat. I usually do dovetails for drawer fronts only. I join the rear corners with locking rabbets. Therefore, in setting up the PC jig, I start by cutting my drawer sides and fronts a little extra wide. I then simply center the boards on the fingers as closely as I can by eye (or, I might use one of the stops). When the tails and pins are cut, I slip them together and mark where the fronts and sides need to be ripped to proper width and have the edges line up. Then I cut the locking rabbets in the rear corners.

I haven't read through the directions in a long time but, if memory serves me correctly, I think that the left and right stop settings don't need to be exactly the same. They should be close but, if you are a hair off it doesn't matter as the right setting will be only for the right side pins and tails and left side setting will be for the left side only. The only reason you need to use these stops is if you are cutting pins and tails for both the front and rear corners. Using these stops will assure that the front and rear pins and tails on one side line up.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

Without setting up my jig, I can't comment on the width issue. I think that if you can slip the 12 1/4" board between the two stops, it will likely work OK. Experimenting with some scrap is always good.

[Greg Jones]

Probably wouldn’t hurt to mention which model of the Porter Cable jig you have, as they made several models over the years.

[meanderawl]

Ref model , standard PC 4200 series.  Without running out to the shop to check, i believe it's the 4212 purchased several years ago.  As far as getting close then trimming the boards to size, I have used that method in the past but in this case i was trying to maybe finally learn to do it without the extra step of trying to rip everything to exact size afterwards.  Seems to make sense what your saying about not all four sides having to be exact match, so long as the two pieces joining together match.  guess the only way to be sure is to grab a bunch of scrap wood and start cutting test pieces.  Thanks for the input.  Still welcoming suggestions.

meanderawlwoodshop.blog

[meanderawl]

My thanks to Willyou for above advise.  Spent some time out in the shop with some scrap wood on the dovetail jig.  I'm sure I didn't get the right and left stops adjusted exactly the same and the practice box came out just fine.  Like Willyou mentioned, apparently the stops don't have to be exact so long as the right side joints and left side joints are cut in conjunction with each other.  Now the problem is in the bits used.   Figured I go ahead and get brand new bits before I started tackling the cherry pieces.  The straight bit I have, and also listed in the manual is the 43743pc at 11/32.  The only replacement i'm able to find, even under the 43743pc part number, indicates a 13/32 diameter.  Has PC made a change and how will this affect thru dovetails using the current 17/32 7degree dovetail bit?  Trying to contact PorterCable directly but having problems on their website.  Thanks again for responses.

[Stwood_]

Haven't used mine in several years So I'd be scratching my head too.
On the dovetail bits, pretty sure PC still makes them, and also Woodcraft used to have them available in their brand of bits.
Whiteside also makes them last I knew of.

I could dig em out and get the numbers if needed.

[meanderawl]

Thanks Steve, appreciate it but not necesarry to dig them out.  Should have thought of it earlier but went out this morning and put a caliper to the straight bit.  As far as i can tell it is actually 13/32.  Going to assume the 11/32 printed in the manual is a misprint.  Also sent an  inquiry to PorterCable and should have a response tommorow or Tue at the latest.  p.s. did recheck the manual and even though the old eyes aren't what they used to  be, it does list 11/32