Mortise Jig for Router

[sroxberg]

I want to assemble some 2x4 frames with loose tenons and will need to cut some 1/2 wide by about 1 1/2" deep mortises.

Some on the ends of 2x4's and some on the matching Edge. 

Does anyone have plans for a home made jig that would work well using a router for the power?

The 2/4 will be 6 feet long so that may also dictate which jig design would work the best.

Any thoughts?

[barryvabeach]

I made  a simple jig that I just used for a project and it came out great.  If it is a single use, I would just take a piece of plywood for a base, screw another piece below it to form a T  ( that is the part that will be clamped to the workpiece.   if you read this article, https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/cut-m...r-and-jig/ he uses a piece of hardwood scrap and that would work too )   Then just screw 4 scraps to the top piece, spacing them so that with the router bit in the router, and making test cuts, you get a mortise exactly the right size.   For mine, it took a few test tries, moving the scraps on the top around, to get it right, but once I did, I was off an running and did 12 mortises pretty quickly.

If you have a template guide,  you can make something like he did in the article,  though the measuring is a little fussy.

[JDuke]

Sarcasm to follow...

Can’t be done with anything less than a JDS multirouter, if you can’t afford that (like me) then you may possibly be able to make do with festool domino best done with 2 bolted together.

Yes you can use a simple router jig like the post above mentioned, it’s tried and true and does a great job but doesn’t cost as much and isn’t as flashy as the JDS or Festool

[mike4244]

I want to assemble some 2x4 frames with loose tenons and will need to cut some 1/2 wide by about 1 1/2" deep mortises.

Some on the ends of 2x4's and some on the matching Edge. 

Does anyone have plans for a home made jig that would work well using a router for the power?

The 2/4 will be 6 feet long so that may also dictate which jig design would work the best.

Any thoughts?

Other ways without a jig are possible. If you have an horizontal router table, or a drill press.  Install a 1/2" HSS end mill with a 1/2" shank in your DP.
Clamp a fence to the DP so the cutter is centered. Take light cuts because a DP is not the machine for lateral pressure work. 1/4" depth of cut at a time will be okay. Move board from left to right  at 1/4" deep. Repeat til you reach 1-1/2" deep. Do each end completely. Then you can move the board from left to right starting at the right hole. This way you do not have to worry about milling past the length needed. You will clean cuts at DP low speeds. 4 flute cutters are best for wood. Wholesale Tools , Mc Master Carr are a couple of suppliers.
mike

[fredhargis]

The 6" length is what has me stumped for a suggestion. I suppose if you have a high ceiling and a way to clamp the board upright you could stand on a platform and use a router. But it would be easiest (and probably safest) to do it horizontally. There are some horizontal router designs ( I thin our own jtecenyk (sp?) has one) but most of the are extreme overkill for a one shot project. But if these mortises are all the same size, it wouldn't be to hard to cut a slot in a platform, but 2 support pieces (one on each side) and use a bushing with a long spiral bit to cut them. I think I would try to figure out how to use integral tenons on the 6' long ones though.

[rwe2156]

If you're not averse or have hand tools, how about standard mortise and tenons?

Mortises can be done with a drill press/finished with chisels. 
Several ways to do tenons: tables saw or RAS w/dadoblade, circular saw or even a hand saw/finish with chisels/rasps/rabbet block plane etc.

[Derek Cohen]

I want to assemble some 2x4 frames with loose tenons and will need to cut some 1/2 wide by about 1 1/2" deep mortises.

Some on the ends of 2x4's and some on the matching Edge. 

Does anyone have plans for a home made jig that would work well using a router for the power?

The 2/4 will be 6 feet long so that may also dictate which jig design would work the best.

Any thoughts?

Since building this, I have added horizontal sliding tracks as well. These tracks are sliding dovetails for the MicriJig clamps.




Here is a stretcher clamped to the front ...




The router sits on the top, the fence is captured in the slot at the rear ...



Recent photo taken morticing for drawer pulls ...



Regards from Perth

Derek

[jteneyck]

I do long pieces on my horizontal router mortiser pretty often.  It's no big deal.  You just provide supplemental support on the end hanging out.  The problem with a typical router jig is you would have to stand on a stepladder to do the ends of a 6' long piece, or clamp the board to an upstairs balcony; not very convenient.  

If you plan to use loose tenons very much, you should consider building a horizontal router mortiser.  I'd be happy to sell you one, too, but you can build this one for free.


John

[mike4244]

I do long pieces on my horizontal router mortiser pretty often.  It's no big deal.  You just provide supplemental support on the end hanging out.  The problem with a typical router jig is you would have to stand on a stepladder to do the ends of a 6' long piece, or clamp the board to an upstairs balcony; not very convenient.  

If you plan to use loose tenons very much, you should consider building a horizontal router mortiser.  I'd be happy to sell you one, too, but you can build this one for free.


John

I like your jig John. Mine is pretty much just a router mounted to an MDF base that moves on an arc for height adjustment. I don't think I have used it for years. I mounted an old Sears 1 hp  router to the MDF . Used that jig to mortise face frames for kitchen cabinets mostly.
mike

[mikefm101]

I want to assemble some 2x4 frames with loose tenons and will need to cut some 1/2 wide by about 1 1/2" deep mortises.

Some on the ends of 2x4's and some on the matching Edge. 

Does anyone have plans for a home made jig that would work well using a router for the power?

The 2/4 will be 6 feet long so that may also dictate which jig design would work the best.

Any

https://www.finewoodworking.com/1996/12/...a-router-2


I’ve been using the U shaped jig for about a decade and never an issue.  

Scrap plywood and some clamps.  

Clamp stop blocks to the jig so each workpiece is positioned the same way.  I mark start and stop points for the router base on the top of the sides of the jig (in other words what the router base slides on).  Once the workpiece is clamped in place I don’t even have to watch the router bit.  

Hope it helps. 

Mike