Mitered dining table legs

[EBamba]

I'm looking at building something similar to this leg design. It appears that a miter joint was used. What would be an acceptable method to reinforce the joint? I'm open to suggestions on a better joint to use. Thanks in advance for any responses.

[GeeDub]

First choice, floating double tenons, second, large double dowels, third, deep spline.

[jteneyck]

I'm looking at building something similar to this leg design. It appears that a miter joint was used. What would be an acceptable method to reinforce the joint? I'm open to suggestions on a better joint to use. Thanks in advance for any responses.

If you like exposed joinery you could you use finger joints or add splines after gluing them up as simple mitered joints.  If you want the joinery to be hidden then consider 2 or 3 matching mortises in the mating pieces and then glue in right angle plywood or aluminum loose tenons.  There was an article in FWW within the past year or two that shows how this works.  

John

[EBamba]

First choice, floating double tenons, second, large double dowels, third, deep spline.

I was thinking of a spline. I can see using large dowels but trying envision the floating double tenons. Do you have a visual example of the tenons?

If you like exposed joinery you could you use finger joints or add splines after gluing them up as simple mitered joints.  If you want the joinery to be hidden then consider 2 or 3 matching mortises in the mating pieces and then glue in right angle plywood or aluminum loose tenons.  There was an article in FWW within the past year or two that shows how this works.  

John

I was planing to go with finger joints. I even have a 3/4" spiral up cut router bit to use with the Grizzly 1035 router shaper. I would have to build a sled/jig that could handle the 1 1/2" thick leg stock. Would have to make two passes for each finger. I'm shying away from that though. I'll try to find the FWW article but I'm not a subscriber.

[jteneyck]

I was thinking of a spline. I can see using large dowels but trying envision the floating double tenons. Do you have a visual example of the tenons?
I was planing to go with finger joints. I even have a 3/4" spiral up cut router bit to use with the Grizzly 1035 router shaper. I would have to build a sled/jig that could handle the 1 1/2" thick leg stock. Would have to make two passes for each finger. I'm shying away from that though. I'll try to find the FWW article but I'm not a subscriber.

Issue #254 May/June 2016.  Longer ago than I thought.  Send me a PM if you can't find it.  

John

[EBamba]

If you like exposed joinery you could you use finger joints or add splines after gluing them up as simple mitered joints.  If you want the joinery to be hidden then consider 2 or 3 matching mortises in the mating pieces and then glue in right angle plywood or aluminum loose tenons.  There was an article in FWW within the past year or two that shows how this works.  

John

Issue #254 May/June 2016.  Longer ago than I thought.  Send me a PM if you can't find it.  

John

Found it John, thanks for the offer.

[DaveR1]

I was thinking of a spline. I can see using large dowels but trying envision the floating double tenons. Do you have a visual example of the tenons?
I was planing to go with finger joints. I even have a 3/4" spiral up cut router bit to use with the Grizzly 1035 router shaper. I would have to build a sled/jig that could handle the 1 1/2" thick leg stock. Would have to make two passes for each finger. I'm shying away from that though. I'll try to find the FWW article but I'm not a subscriber.

Maybe you've already rejected the finger joint idea but I did a quick sketch because I was curious what it would look like. This shows finger or box joints as they'd be cut with a 3/4 in. diameter cutter. Based on the dimensions provided by the manufacturer, it looks like the parts would need to start at roughly 1-7/8 in thick.

You could do exposed splines as are common on mitered boxes. Those wouldn't have to cut through to the inside.

[EBamba]

If you like exposed joinery you could you use finger joints or add splines after gluing them up as simple mitered joints.  If you want the joinery to be hidden then consider 2 or 3 matching mortises in the mating pieces and then glue in right angle plywood or aluminum loose tenons.  There was an article in FWW within the past year or two that shows how this works.  

John

Maybe you've already rejected the finger joint idea but I did a quick sketch because I was curious what it would look like. This shows finger or box joints as they'd be cut with a 3/4 in. diameter cutter. Based on the dimensions provided by the manufacturer, it looks like the parts would need to start at roughly 1-7/8 in thick.

You could do exposed splines as are common on mitered boxes. Those wouldn't have to cut through to the inside.

Thanks for the sketch. The manufactures dimensions you noted, was that for the legs/base of the image I posted? I found the image on Google and was using it as an example of what I was planing to make. Curious how you found the manufactures dimensions.
I think that the hidden spline miter joint would be the best option for me. Maybe add 3/4" exposed splines after glue up using the spiral bit I already have. Still would need to make a spline jig, but without the fuss of a box/finger joint jig (did that make sense lol?).

[GeeDub]

I was thinking of a spline. I can see using large dowels but trying envision the floating double tenons. Do you have a visual example of the tenons?

These are single but, your material would be wider.

[attachment=25341]
[attachment=25342]

I was thinking of a deep hidden spline so I guess it would really almost be a floating tenon.

[attachment=25343]

[EBamba]

If you like exposed joinery you could you use finger joints or add splines after gluing them up as simple mitered joints.  If you want the joinery to be hidden then consider 2 or 3 matching mortises in the mating pieces and then glue in right angle plywood or aluminum loose tenons.  There was an article in FWW within the past year or two that shows how this works.  

John

These are single but, your material would be wider.




I was thinking of a deep hidden spline so I guess it would really almost be a floating tenon.

Thanks GeeDub. I was trying to respond to you earlier about the floating tenon example, which I found doing a search. For some reason jteneycki's quote keeps showing up on my replies. Not sure how to stop it.