Contemplating different bench tops...

[Lumber Yard®]

Almost 15 years ago I built a "temporary" bench with the top being built from salvaged 1.5" thick oak trailer bed decking wrapped with a 3" apron. Over the past 15 years it has been pretty beat up and it has sagged a little on the edges. I still beat on it and use the attached vises etc. but I've gotten to the point that I don't trust it to build on because it isn't flat enough. BTW the top sits on a cabinet carcass that has shelving etc for storage that will continue to support whatever top I go with.

I've been looking at various options to replace my current top:

1. I've considered just yanking the top and re-flattening it through the planer but IIRC it had some metal in it so, I think that is out. In addition, the oak top proved to be not the best option because of the open grain.
   
2. I've considered just ordering a new hard maple top for a couple hundred bucks. The top I am considering is 1.75" thick which should work fine for me.
   
3. I have enough 8/4 hard maple in the shop to make a maple top in the the dimensions I need with about a 2.5" thickness. I'm not sure the maple costs and the extra work involved in making one is really worth it over just ordering a solid maple top.
   
4. I also, have TONS of 8/4 walnut but I fear that it might be too porus and soft for a long term solution.
   
5. I am strongly considering some type of top like a DIY Festool MFT with an aluminum extrusion frame to provide t-track functionality on the frame edges and a sacrificial MDF surface. I do have some 80/20 hanging around the shop from CNC builds but would need to order a couple longer pieces to complete the framework.
   

I should add that my current top has two traditional woodworking vises that I use a ton and so, whatever I decide on, it would need to include a way of mounting them. Obviously, mounting them on a traditional top is pretty easy but on a MFT style bench it might present more of a challenge. 

I also, have aluminum t-track embedded into my current top which has been useful at times but also becomes a trap for stuff that needs to be cleaned out. In addition, I have 2 rows of bench dog holes and enough accessories that use them that I would want them on whatever top I go with.

Lastly, I'll just say that I use hand tools occasionally but my shop is based on WW machinery. Therefore a bench in my shop is used mainly as an assembly table. 

Interested to hear what others think about an MFT set-up vs. just a solid bench top. 

[R Clark]

My main table is a 48" X 48" flat surface.  It's made of two layers of 3/4" particle board topped by plastic laminate, and edge-wrapped on walnut.  I have two others:  

  - a 30 x 66 repurposed high school woodshop table which is hard maple (given to me by my BIL and has all of the high school "patina")

  - a Sjoberg's table top I bought off of Craigslist 12 years ago.

I just beat my bench tops up so much that I have never seriously considered a "high class" bench top like hard maple or a specialized top like the Festool MFT.  My big table serves as the out-feed from my table saw.  On any given day it will have varied activities taking place on it, like sharpening mower blades, staining and finishing projects (with varying degrees of protection), small engine repair, whatever.

[Lumber Yard®]

That sounds like my use with my bench...it will see various duties not just WW that is why something with a sacrificial top like the MFT is appealing. I can mess it up doing an automotive repair and it isn't a big deal as I can just swap it out. I don't consider the MFT really specialized as you put it, for me it's just versatile and easily repaired with a new surface.

[BattleRidge]

My combination workbench / assembly table / outfeed area has two layers of 3/4" plywood (screwed, not glued together) with a sheet of tempered hardboard on top secured with double sided tape and surrounded by modified oak trim.  The surface is strong and durable and the hardboard can be easy and inexpensive to replace once worn or damaged.  

The area is primarily for woodworking but I will occasionally use it for other purposes.  For everyday tasks I have a couple metal framed workbenches with particle board tops and for metal work will often use an angle-iron bench with a 3/4" plywood top.  I try to keep activities that would contaminate my woodworking projects separate whenever possible.

[mike4244]

Almost 15 years ago I built a "temporary" bench with the top being built from salvaged 1.5" thick oak trailer bed decking wrapped with a 3" apron. Over the past 15 years it has been pretty beat up and it has sagged a little on the edges. I still beat on it and use the attached vises etc. but I've gotten to the point that I don't trust it to build on because it isn't flat enough. BTW the top sits on a cabinet carcass that has shelving etc for storage that will continue to support whatever top I go with.

I've been looking at various options to replace my current top:

1. I've considered just yanking the top and re-flattening it through the planer but IIRC it had some metal in it so, I think that is out. In addition, the oak top proved to be not the best option because of the open grain.
   
2. I've considered just ordering a new hard maple top for a couple hundred bucks. The top I am considering is 1.75" thick which should work fine for me.
   
3. I have enough 8/4 hard maple in the shop to make a maple top in the the dimensions I need with about a 2.5" thickness. I'm not sure the maple costs and the extra work involved in making one is really worth it over just ordering a solid maple top.
   
4. I also, have TONS of 8/4 walnut but I fear that it might be too porus and soft for a long term solution.
   
5. I am strongly considering some type of top like a DIY Festool MFT with an aluminum extrusion frame to provide t-track functionality on the frame edges and a sacrificial MDF surface. I do have some 80/20 hanging around the shop from CNC builds but would need to order a couple longer pieces to complete the framework.
   

I should add that my current top has two traditional woodworking vises that I use a ton and so, whatever I decide on, it would need to include a way of mounting them. Obviously, mounting them on a traditional top is pretty easy but on a MFT style bench it might present more of a challenge. 

I also, have aluminum t-track embedded into my current top which has been useful at times but also becomes a trap for stuff that needs to be cleaned out. In addition, I have 2 rows of bench dog holes and enough accessories that use them that I would want them on whatever top I go with.

Lastly, I'll just say that I use hand tools occasionally but my shop is based on WW machinery. Therefore a bench in my shop is used mainly as an assembly table. 

Interested to hear what others think about an MFT set-up vs. just a solid bench top. 

If you can get a hardwood laminated top for$200.00 and it is suitable for your work, go for it.
I used to make laminated tops, most of which were softwoods , fir when available for a reasonable price. 
I also made 7 Beech and 1 top from Ipe. The hardwood tops I sold went for $800.00 /$1250.00 . These also had drawer cabinets at each end. The softwood tops went $ 400.00 with 4 legs , no shelves or drawers. No bench I sold came with a vice, but I did install a vice for $35.00 extra. Hardwood tops had dog holes, round or square ,3° tilt 6 hard wood dogs. I would make a tray if customer wanted, no extra cost. I could not compete with a $200.00 hardwood top. I have seen these tops. They are less than 2" thick , but not a problem for most woodworkers. My hardwood tops were 3-3/8" thick on average. Softwood tops ,3-1/8" average. The softwood tops were for lab tables and manufacturing  and industrial factories . Probably made 200+ benches before retiring. 
mike

[Cooler]

I made mine out of 3/4" MDF to mimic the Festool MFT design.  I made two smaller tables both on locking casters.  I can move them as required to create  a large bench or two smaller benches.  I copied Festool's dimensions and drilled 3/4" holes (very time consuming) on 4" centers.   It is about 30" x 44".  The top is supported all around the perimeter by 2" x 4" lumber and is very solid.

[rwe2156]

Running the top through a planer is not going to flatten it. I suggest you find out why the top is warped.

I'm will to bet the problem is the base. Since the top is quite thin, its not going to resist flexing.

If it turns out to be the base,  that can either be fixed, or better yet, build a proper trestle type base.   The top may correct when blted to the base. 

You can always add a layer of ply or MDF for a "fresher" top.

Or, since you have all that nice hard maple, why not just build a nice workbench!

[Lumber Yard®]

I made mine out of 3/4" MDF to mimic the Festool MFT design.  I made two smaller tables both on locking casters.  I can move them as required to create  a large bench or two smaller benches.  I copied Festool's dimensions and drilled 3/4" holes (very time consuming) on 4" centers.   It is about 30" x 44".  The top is supported all around the perimeter by 2" x 4" lumber and is very solid.

Thanks. The imperial holes and hole spacing is what I have been looking at as well. Your measurements are exactly what I was considering 3/4" holes obviously and with 4" spacing. I have a CNC so, the cutting/drilling the holes won't be as cumbersome for me to complete. I'm pretty sure at this point that I am going to go with the MFT style benchtop like you. I just think it would be nice to have a sacrificial top that can be easily replaced. I'm now considering a whether I should make a solid maple framework as opposed to aluminum extrusion frame. Also MDF is cheap so, I might consider 2 layers of 3/4" MDF as a surface. BTW the dimension of my top will be around 24"x60" so, it's not super big. Decisions, decisions...

[Cooler]

Thanks. The imperial holes and hole spacing is what I have been looking at as well. Your measurements are exactly what I was considering 3/4" holes obviously and with 4" spacing. I have a CNC so, the cutting/drilling the holes won't be as cumbersome for me to complete. I'm pretty sure at this point that I am going to go with the MFT style benchtop like you. I just think it would be nice to have a sacrificial top that can be easily replaced. I'm now considering a whether I should make a solid maple framework as opposed to aluminum extrusion frame. Also MDF is cheap so, I might consider 2 layers of 3/4" MDF as a surface. BTW the dimension of my top will be around 24"x60" so, it's not super big. Decisions, decisions...

Festool considers their 3/4" top as a consumable. 

I used Festool's dimensions because I assumed that they did some engineering and research.  Copying made sense.

I used a piece of peg board as a guide and used a center-finding bit to drill location holes.  Then I drilled out the 3/4" holes using an auger tipped bit and a 3/4" bushing.  I built three.  I use one as an out-feed table for my table saw.  That one is on leveling feet.  The others are on locking casters.

Despite my care, on each table their is one hole that is not in perfect alignment.  I have encircled those holes with red magic marker.  The others I can use for squaring purposes. 

The CNC machine would make perfectly aligned holes.  There are plans with various different hole patterns on line and you might want to look at that. 

MDF is pretty cheap and since you have access to the CNC machine, I would think a sacrificial top would be not necessary.

I have a piece of hardboard that I throw on top of the table if I am going to scar it up.

Festool-type clamps work well in the 3/4" holes.  I have four.  Two are actual Festool clamps.  I think the others are Makita--I don't remember.

[aquaticjim]

I know that bowling alley maple is a good choice and have seen it advertised on craigslist in my area.   What I would like to know, was there a standard thickness used in bowling alley construction?  I think it is thick so as to maintain a flat surface.  I have purchased a few of the work benches from high schools as they close their shop classes.  I think they were all 2 1/4" think.