An Introduction and a Bench Build

[Master-of-None]

Seems like this is an auspicious time to post this. I am starting a bench build and I see another member is considering one.

First, a little introduction. I have been a long time member but a very rare participant. Just felt there was nothing much I could contribute but had much to learn. Recently I retired and have been busy doing woodworking. I thought this would be my first contribution, building a new workbench.

Here is the plan: the bench will be Roubo style, but will not have all the parts of the Roubo. The build will be from construction grade douglas fir 2 by 6 which will be laminated for the top and the legs. Right now I am planning to use the Lee Valley twin screw vise that will go over the leg. Not sure if I will used an end vise.
The legs will go into the top via a mortise and tenon. One thing that I believe will be different about this build is that the mortises will be built into the bench top as I'm laminating it, so that I will not need to chop those 5 ½ inch mortises with a chisel! The legs will also be laminated with an integral tenon.
I will be happy to answer any questions and listen to any constructive criticism. This is the first "real" post so please let me know how I can improve on it.

Here's a couple pics of the 2 by 6 as they have been acclimating, for the past few years (yes, I've been planning it for that long!)


[attachment=25589]
[attachment=25590]

Here's a few more ideas on how I plan to proceed. Each of the 2x6 will be planed on both surfaces, since you obviously need smooth surfaces in order to glue them. (And no, this will not be by hand, I know, I know, this is the hand tool forum, but still...) Then the edges of each 2x6 will sent through the table saw to remove all the tear out and uneven areas that construction lumber has. So by the end of all this prep, the 2x6 will not be that anymore. Whatever they end up that's what I will use. 
At this point the plan is to have the bench just under 24 inches deep and about 7 ft long, but that's somewhat flexible because the wood will "tell" me where to stop. The idea behind all this prep is to end up with the boards four-square so that ideally when all this is assembled,  I will have perfect bench top. That’s the idea and hope.

[mongo]

Do yourself a favor and make it 24 inches. I have one about 21 and so many cabinets and furniture pieces are 24 inches I really miss that last little bit.

[Master-of-None]

Do yourself a favor and make it 24 inches.  I have one about 21 and so many cabinets and furniture pieces are 24 inches I really miss that last little bit.

Thanks for the comment; my thinking is based on what I've read, one is the Chris Schwartz books where the bench depth is well below 24 inches. The plan in his book shows it to be only 20 inches. Also Paul Sellers bench is very shallow if you exclude the tool well that he has (only 12 inches.) The thought was also to make is so I could use my 24 inch clamps. From what I see now,  it will be close to 24 inches but still a fraction under. 
I hope I don't regret my decision. But if worse comes to worse and I really don't like it after I use it for a while, I still will be able to laminate another 2x6 to the back. 

[Scoony]

My bench is 22" wide and actually I would not want it any wider. I could easily live with a 18" - 20" wide bench. Mine is 7' long and I would not go any shorter.

[arnman]

This will be interesting.  Thanks for starting this thread.

You said you are not sure about the tail vise (or end vise).  I am not sure if I will use one either.  But in one of my searches I found an alternative to the Benchcrafted type.  It is the HNT Gordon tail vise.  It looks to be well made, and does not appear to require drastic design measures to accommodate.

Regarding the mortises to connect the legs to the top - I have seen different approaches.  In Derek Cohen's build-along on his website, he used short tenons to extend into the bottom of table.  I don't believe that they extended all the way through.  I am leaning toward that method, but I will probably make my tenons about half the thickness of the top.

[Axehandle]

My bench is 21 as well and my cabinets haven’t noticed anything.

I made it this depth because I could reach across it without bending so far it was fatiguing.

[cputnam]

I believe that there are as many opinions about bench width as there are members here. If you can reach across it, do whatever works for you.

[Tapper]

Seems like this is an auspicious time to post this. I am starting a bench build and I see another member is considering one.

First, a little introduction. I have been a long time member but a very rare participant. Just felt there was nothing much I could contribute but had much to learn. Recently I retired and have been busy doing woodworking. I thought this would be my first contribution, building a new workbench.

Here is the plan: the bench will be Roubo style, but will not have all the parts of the Roubo. The build will be from construction grade douglas fir 2 by 6 which will be laminated for the top and the legs. Right now I am planning to use the Lee Valley twin screw vise that will go over the leg. Not sure if I will used an end vise.
The legs will go into the top via a mortise and tenon. One thing that I believe will be different about this build is that the mortises will be built into the bench top as I'm laminating it, so that I will not need to chop those 5 ½ inch mortises with a chisel! The legs will also be laminated with an integral tenon.
I will be happy to answer any questions and listen to any constructive criticism. This is the first "real" post so please let me know how I can improve on it.

Here's a couple pics of the 2 by 6 as they have been acclimating, for the past few years (yes, I've been planning it for that long!)





Here's a few more ideas on how I plan to proceed. Each of the 2x6 will be planed on both surfaces, since you obviously need smooth surfaces in order to glue them. (And no, this will not be by hand, I know, I know, this is the hand tool forum, but still...) Then the edges of each 2x6 will sent through the table saw to remove all the tear out and uneven areas that construction lumber has. So by the end of all this prep, the 2x6 will not be that anymore. Whatever they end up that's what I will use. 
At this point the plan is to have the bench just under 24 inches deep and about 7 ft long, but that's somewhat flexible because the wood will "tell" me where to stop. The idea behind all this prep is to end up with the boards four-square so that ideally when all this is assembled,  I will have perfect bench top. That’s the idea and hope.

Welcome aboard to the "active participation" part of this forum and thanks for taking us along on your bench build. I will probably be in the minority here, but two things come to mind from what's been said to date:

1) Based on my experience and usage, I can't imagine a woodworking workbench without a tail vise. I'll be reworking the top of my workbench soon (it was featured in Woodsmith #50). It has split after nearly 20 years (my fault). I will be removing the tool tray that was part of the original design. It just collects "stuff" that gets in the way. I'll also be replacing the tail vise that was specified in the original plan because it is very "clunky." Looked at the Benchcrafted tail vise but decided on the Hovarter Wagon Vise instead (it's on order). More reasonably priced and I like the action better. I'm presently working on a sizable project for my shop and have used the tail vise extensively for several different kinds of tasks - YMMV.

2) By removing the tool tray on the back edge of the top, it will obviously be narrower. I plan to replace the tray space with more laminated boards to wind up with a top approximately 28" wide. This is my primary workbench and I like to have the width to accomodate projects that require it.

Looking forward to following your progress!

Good luck,

Doug

P.S. If building the traditional rectangular dog hole segment is part of the reason for eliminating the tail vise, both the Benchcrafted and Hovarter tail vises accomodate the round dogs that are made by Lee Valley and others. Just drill the holes in the benchtop and in the the dog block on the vise.

[adamcherubini]

#1 I can barely read your post. I think you just invited me to your wedding? And you are marrying a workbench? Good luck . I’m sure you will be very happy together, but I’m RSVPing; I can’t make it.

#2 design sounds ok. You don’t need a tailvise. The key to a successful Roubo bench is the fit quality of the M&T. Also don’t need dog hole row.

#3 personally, I would skip the planing and ripping. Tite bond doesn’t need a better surface than construction lumber. Just clamp the heck out of it. I did a bench like this and only glued 1 lamination per day.

Ripping the edges (top surface) is ok, but don’t expect the glued up top to be flat and smooth. You will have to plane it. So I’d skip the table saw and tune up a S#7 instead.

I’ve tried inserting steel rods into laminated bench tops. Waste of time in my opinion.

[adamcherubini]

#4 Top stability will be greatly influenced by exposed end grain. Make sure you seal your end grain soon after glue up. I use old candles, just rub the wax into the end grain.