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I cut 6 (1/4") and 8mm (5/16") polycarbonate all the time, using a plain old combination blade, on tablesaw, bandsaw, even using a handheld jigsaw.
In my experience, polycarbonate doesn't get hot and melt as easily as acrylic, but I always keep a firm grip, and keep it moving, just be on the safe side.
There are blades and drills made special, but I'm not cutting it all day long, like a commercial plastic supplier.
BTW, if you need to polish the edges, MEK, on a rag, wiped on the edge, will give it a nice look. Just wear gloves, MEK is nasty stuff.
Good luck
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Just last week I cut down a 1/4" x 4' x 8' sheet of plexiglass on the table saw. I used a 40 tooth combo blade and put masking tape on both sides of the cut. The cut came out nice, with no chips or cracks. I first used a jigsaw to cut the sheet down to manageable size. 48 x 48. Then down to the needed size on the table saw.
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1/4" polycarbonate cuts easily on the table saw. I used that was in my saw, which was a Freud 30 tooth GLR blade. Worked just fine.
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- I have had good luck using a (carbide tipped) 7 1/4 inch circ saw blade in the table saw. Supporting the material with some MDF can make life easier as well.
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Single strength (0.100" thick) acrylic can easily be cut by making deep scores with a utility knife on both sides and snapping it.
You would not need anything thicker for that application, even though it might feel flimsy.
Avoid polystyrene sheets as they shatter easily and scratch really easily.
You can find acrylic glazing in smaller sizes at very good prices for the picture framing industry. You can find it pre-cut to 5 x 7 and 8 x 10 and some sources will have up to 16 x 20.
If the smaller sizes work you might not have to do any cutting at all. They generally ship in lots of 10 or more.
Shop around because there are some bargain vendors:
https://www.google.com/search?client=fir...plexiglass
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I recommend a "triple chip grind" for cutting polycarbonate. For drilling, take a twist drill and flatten the cutting edge to give a neutral cutting angle otherwise it might grab as it breaks thru and crack the material.
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I cut plastic siding using a plywood blade (all steel) with the blade mounted backwards. It made very clean cuts with no chipping.
I have not tried this on plexiglass however.
I rode in a New York City taxi and the barrier between the driver and the passenger compartment was clearly cut using a milling machine or a router and a template. The slight rippling of the surface was a giveaway.
A router may spin too fast for this however and may cause melting if the feed rate is not fast enough.
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