#12
I got one of those huge lifts with a basket on the end of an extending arm this past weekend to paint my house.  I have to say that it worked extremely well and made painting three stories high on the back side of a walkout house as comfortable as it could possibly be.  However, they weigh 15,000 pounds and left some pretty good ruts on the way into the yard.  After I saw this I bought three sheets of plywood and ripped them in half long ways.  Then I used those six pieces to drive on for every move after the initial delivery and that limited the damage.  After all is said and done I have two ruts from the road that are probably 2" deep and 60'-80' long, and then another spot where it got moved back and forth a couple times (before the plywood) that are about 5" deep and 20' long.  Any solutions other than to add top soil and reseed?  Even if that is the solution should I worry about how tightly compacted that soil underneath my patch is?  Any and all ideas welcome.  Thanks.
Reply

#13
There's only been 2 ways that ever worked for me, and one of them is what you mentioned: fill and reseed. The second is the go through and till the rows....this isn't always that easy, but with a strong rear tine tiller (rented if need be) it's possible. Then seed that.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
Reply

#14
(05-04-2020, 11:53 AM)fredhargis Wrote: There's only been 2 ways that ever worked for me, and one of them is what you mentioned: fill and reseed. The second is the go through and till the rows....this isn't always that easy, but with a strong rear tine tiller (rented if need be) it's possible. Then seed that.

I ran thru a very similar problem when I had some tree work done last fall.  Their lift left some serious ruts.  I rented a heavy tiller and set about tilling it all up.  I ended up with large chunks and quite the mess.  If you're going to rent, whatever time you estimate to do it....double it.  I'll be the first to admit that it was my first time operating such a large tiller and I was up against the time clock in order to get the machine back to the shop....but I did the best I could and hoped that rain/snow/time would be enough to level things out.  It didn't.  Just had 3 yards of topsoil delivered a couple of weeks ago and spread it out.  Waiting for the seed to germinate now.  I personally wish I would have gone this route from the get go.  If you do decide to till, take the time to make sure it's nice/small and spreadable.  And get a 4-5 foot dirt rake to level everything nice and even.

HTH
Kevin
Reply
#15
(05-04-2020, 11:53 AM)fredhargis Wrote: There's only been 2 ways that ever worked for me, and one of them is what you mentioned: fill and reseed. The second is the go through and till the rows....this isn't always that easy, but with a strong rear tine tiller (rented if need be) it's possible. Then seed that.

Had lots of this when we had a paver patio and stone firepit installed. They tilled up the compacted area and reseeded and you cannot tell they were there.
Reply
#16
I'm not even sure you need to seed.  The old grass will grow through.  Re-seeding might see quicker results.

They used sell bags of top soil by the cubic foot (the bag would say something like "contents:  1.5 cubic feet top soil".)

Nowadays, probably because of pressure on pricing, they are selling it by the pound.  And of course the soil is soaking wet inside.

I would much prefer "desiccated topsoil" with 0% moisture.  Instead of carrying an 80 pound bag of topsoil home, I would have a 25 pound bag and I can add my own water.  (It would be cheaper to ship too.)

I opened one bag and water dripped out of the bag.  They used to pack this stuff in paper sacks like concrete. Now they have to pack it in waterproof plastic bags.
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
Reply
#17
Till and reseed is the best solution BUT there are some problems if you're not "dirt-savvy".

The problem is that the wheels compact the dirt both down and sideways and if the compacted soil is allowed to dry it will become very hard to till and create a lot of clods that will be an additional problem.

Best way to do it is to rent a big "reverse rotation" tiller that will cut a couple of inches (or more) below the bottom of the ruts and break/cut up the compacted soil. That should bring the soil back to about the original level.

But make sure the soil is at a good moisture content -- clods included -- before renting the tiller or you'll beat yourself black and blue trying to control that beast.

One of the problems with filling the ruts is that as the freeze/thaw cycles of next winter work on the compacted soil it may lead to some swelling of the old ruts leaving somewhat of a high point.

If you decide to go the fill route shop around for someone who will deliver a small truckload of good topsoil to your property. Buying by the bag is $$$$$.

Know any good strong young folks that you could hire to dig the ruts out?
Wink
"Truth is a highway leading to freedom"  --Kris Kristofferson

Wild Turkey
We may see the writing on the wall, but all we do is criticize the handwriting.
(joined 10/1999)
Reply
#18
just wait them out.  My neighbor had ruts from a cement truck in his pristine lawn.  Was told to do nothing and after a few years its level again.
WoodNET... the new safespace
Reply
#19
A few years ago Ask This Old House did a segment about that. Roger Cook did the segment, and I believe he (they) cut the sod, laid it back and tilled the soil, then relaid the sod.
Reply
Repairing ruts in yard


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)

Product Recommendations

Here are some supplies and tools we find essential in our everyday work around the shop. We may receive a commission from sales referred by our links; however, we have carefully selected these products for their usefulness and quality.