Posts: 1,998
Threads: 1
Joined: Aug 2016
(05-04-2020, 02:25 PM)DaveParkis Wrote: I need to replace an entry door. Everything I find is made for 2x4 construction and the framing here is 2x6. My questions are (1) does it matter which side of the jamb I build out?, and (2) if I build out the interior zide will I still need a sill extension? Thanks!!
If you build out the inside, the door will not open all the way unless you reposition the hinges. Roly
Posts: 4,911
Threads: 3
Joined: Apr 2009
Thanks!! I hadn't thought of that. Will that require a sill extension?
Currently a smarta$$ but hoping to one day graduate to wisea$$
Posts: 22,710
Threads: 0
Joined: Feb 2005
Location: Regina Saskatchewan Canada
2x6 construction has been the standard here for a long time. No one can get you a 2x6 sized door? I would wait a week for delivery before I fussed with building out.
Blackhat
Bad experiences come from poor decisions. So do good stories.
Posts: 379
Threads: 0
Joined: Nov 2010
You should be able to get a prehung door with 6-9/16" deep jambs in various sizes.
I recommend trying Erie Materials on Railroad Ave in Albany, 84 Lumber, or Curtis for a better selection.
Honestly though, I replaced all of mine about 12yrs. ago and used fiberglass doors with wood frames. In our area, at least at my house, the wood frames started rotting within 10yrs.
So two years ago I made new frames with pvc trim boards and reused the fiberglass doors which have held up quite well. The pvc will last all of my lifetime and has worked great.
They even have decent paint for pvc now.
Posts: 4,895
Threads: 0
Joined: May 2010
(05-05-2020, 10:08 AM)jteneyck Wrote: That's a clever solution but how did you hang the doors and mortise for the door lock and deadbolt? PVC doesn't seem to have the strength for either. I'm interested to hear how you addressed that. Thanks.
John
I would treat it as wood but use long screws to bite into the studs
Posts: 379
Threads: 0
Joined: Nov 2010
(05-05-2020, 10:10 AM)fixtureman Wrote: I would treat it as wood but use long screws to bite into the studs
Basically this is what I did. I used 3.5" long construction screws (not sheetrock ones) then caulked over the heads.
I had a piece of solid pt wood blocking behind the hinges and lock which I wrapped in with protect-o wrap window and door stuff.
Posts: 4,911
Threads: 3
Joined: Apr 2009
Thanks very much for the input. It happens that my woodworking club is in Erie's building. I will talk with them.
Currently a smarta$$ but hoping to one day graduate to wisea$$