Saw Stop 3HP PCS - Increase 4" port to 6" - Blade Shroud Hose?

[GeeDub]

I have read about and experienced the benefits of moving from 4" ports on machines to 6".  My specific question is about doing so on a Saw Stop 3HP PCS. Opening up the port from 4" to 6" is easy enough.  For those that have done so, did you keep the blade shroud hose or just remove it?  TIA.

[fredhargis]

I hope Bloomington Mike sees this and chimes in. He opened his (ICS) port to 8", and as I recall he left the blade shroud hose in place. I keep thinking about doing that to mine (I'd go 6") but just haven't worked up the gumption to do it yet. If I did I'm pretty sure I'd leave the shroud hose in place. I should point out that Mike has a 300 HP DC (or something like that) so his experience may be different that that of us mere mortals.

[GeeDub]

I hope Bloomington Mike sees this and chimes in. He opened his (ICS) port to 8", and as I recall he left the blade shroud hose in place. I keep thinking about doing that to mine (I'd go 6") but just haven't worked up the gumption to do it yet. If I did I'm pretty sure I'd leave the shroud hose in place. I should point out that Mike has a 300 HP DC (or something like that) so his experience may be different that that of us mere mortals.

Thanks Fred.  I'm between shops so I have the opportunity to do some machine port mods while things are staged between there and here.  Dust collection is like cars and stereos, technology is great but, nothing beats the thrill of raw horsepower.
  I only run a 2HP and am hoping with good ducting decisions it will be enough for the new space.  If not, I will always go for the most bang I can get in a DC . . . bandsaws too for that matter
.  With this and other responses to my question elsewhere I think I will be going for a 6" with the shroud hose left in place.  If things move along I will be able to report on the performance difference in a few months.

[fredhargis]

I'd be interested in what gains you see.

[Handplanesandmore]

I do not see how the removal of the blade shroud hose (for the dust collection blade guard, if that's what we're talking about here) would benefit the dust collection efficiency. Especially when a zci is used, the overhead dust collection is important regardless of how powerful the under the table dust collection is.

Simon

[GeeDub]

I do not see how the removal of the blade shroud hose (for the dust collection blade guard, if that's what we're talking about here) would benefit the dust collection efficiency. Especially when a zci is used, the overhead dust collection is important regardless of how powerful the under the table dust collection is.

Simon

No worries Simon.  I got a little confusion on another forum as well.  The shroud is inside the cabinet below the blade.  The guard above the table top will remain.  I will likely increase the guard's hose to a 2-1/2" but, that is a separate issue from the cabinet's 4" to 6" change in the thread.

To your post, I was surprised how well the overarm collection was at the guard even with the poor choices of a T connection and a small hose.  The draw at the hose, when you put your hand to it, seems pretty wimpy but, like I say, the collection is quite good in the stock form.

[Lumber Yard®]

I've stated this before but a blade shroud might collect a little more than what the cabinet dust port collects but I'm not too hung up on any of the cabinet based dust. The dust/chips that end up in the cabinet is contained and does not pose a health risk. The real battle is the above the table collection and how to obtain most of those particles. This issue is complicated by the zero clearance inserts that a lot of folks use because below the cabinet collection can't easily pull those particles down into the cabinet. I haven't opened up the 4" port on my Unisaw cabinet simply because it gets most everything in the cabinet... if it leaves anything I'm not too concerned with it because everything is contained in the cabinet. Now the above the table collection is where I have spent time and money to try and eliminate most of that waste. Personally, I like the Shark Guard on my TS but I understand the SawStop has a pretty decent OEM guard with a DC port. I don't know, I think sometimes we look for solutions to non-existent problems.

[GeeDub]

"I don't know, I think sometimes we look for solutions to non-existent problems. "

Excellent point. I should be careful. I am bored because I am between shops and trying to be productive. I need to percolate on my machines performance and make sure I am not just looking for something to do. I enjoy spending time in my shop and on my shop but, I can become . . . "over-focused" at times ;-)

[BloomingtonMike]

"I don't know, I think sometimes we look for solutions to non-existent problems. "

Excellent point.  I should be careful. I am bored because I am between shops and trying to be productive.  I need to percolate on my machines performance and make sure I am not just looking for something to do.  I enjoy spending time in my shop and on my shop but, I can become . . . "over-focused" at times ;-)

I did go to 8". I have a clear cabinet now. I have a 4029 cfm 10hp cyclone collector with 12" and 10" mains and 8" drops. It is the size of a mountain lol and literally has two start circuits. I would NOT do it with a 2hp collector. I would not go to just 6" if I was keeping the other port. I ran mine so that when sold (by someone else - I'm not selling my ics ever) you can just cover up the other hole and go back to 4" only. You want to keep enough metal around the 4" to do that. I use a Nordfab flange over the hose port and the new area I cut out. You could change it back with magnetic dry erase mats or in my case I would just weld it closed.

I also have a Excalibur over blade collector and it works well I have a Shark guard collector for it too but I just use the Excalibur one.

[BloomingtonMike]

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