Upgrading bs guide

[jussi]

I’m looking to upgrade my guides on my 14” PM bs. What would you guys recommend. Are bearings still the beat choice? Ideally if there isnt a huge price difference I would want one with a tool less adjustment. I know there are others but Carter is the only company I know that comes to mind. Recommendations?

Also I won’t be resawing on it as I have a larger bs.

[barryvabeach]

I like blocks over bearings because bearings only have a single point of contact, and can tend to compress sawdust against the blade.  As for tool free, most uppers can be made tool free pretty cheaply by buying, or making, knurled thumbscrews.   I haven't used this supplier, but their selection seems pretty thorough -  https://www.fixtureworks.net/store/pc/Kn...s-c938.htm

[Bob Vaughan]

I like blocks over bearings because bearings only have a single point of contact, and can tend to compress sawdust against the blade. 

My experiences over 40 years confirms what Barry says.  Cleaning those rollers is an annoyance.

[attachment=29079]
Cleaned roller and one that needs cleaning.

[barryvabeach]

Bob is definitely the expert on the issue.  Bob,  how do you get the sawdust out of the bearing.  I recall seeing an article about submerging a bearing in oil in a glass jar, then pulling a vacuum, then releasing the vacuum to get oil in, but it was never very clear how to get the sawdust out.

[Bob Vaughan]

Bob is definitely the expert on the issue.  Bob,  how do you get the sawdust out of the bearing.  I recall seeing an article about submerging a bearing in oil in a glass jar, then pulling a vacuum, then releasing the vacuum to get oil in, but it was never very clear how to get the sawdust out.

The gummy sawdust is embossed on the perimeter of the bearings.  I'll wrap a little piece of cloth  around the outside and drip a little lacquer thinner on.  Within a minute, it rubs off.  Since these are sealed bearings, the inside stays pretty much sawdust free.  For the long term, sawdust will leech the oil out of the bearing leaving only the soapy binder of the grease.  A knife will pop off the seal and more grease can be put in to put off bearing replacement.  The inside of a bearing should only have its cavity about 40% full of grease.

With side roller guides, green wood or any pine can get all over the rollers and then the rollers emboss the resiny stuff on the blade. Often the buildup will result in a hammering noise as the lumps of resin go through the side guides.  Dry hardwoods rarely if ever do this.  My 20" band saw has Carter 500 bearings with the side rollers.  When I have to process resinous woods, I just figure this is the cost of doing business, but I would much prefer solid steel block side guides.

The thing about the vacuum and the glass jar is useful for getting oil into specialized bearings, specifically radial arm saw track bearings.  Its not a permanent fix but it works great for the short term and puts off buying new track bearings.

[barryvabeach]

Bob,  thanks for the tips.

[lincmercguy]

I did the Carter guide for my Ridgid BS years ago. I am happy with it, but the largest improvement is with resawing. If I wasn't going to use it for that, I probably wouldn't want to spend that much.

[EightFingers]

I put the Carters on mine a few years back. They work great, but I hate the idea they use three different sizes of allen screws. It’s really annoying to get out three wrenches when changing a blade.

[jteneyck]

I think top of the heap are ceramic guides like on some Laguna saws.  I use Cool Blocks and have no complaints.  What i really like about them is they won't damage the blade so you can put them right up against the back of the teeth; with narrow blades right over the teeth and just let them self seat.  FWIW, Michael Fortune still uses steel guide blocks and seems to do pretty good work.   

John

[EightFingers]

Easier to just replace the bearing. I tried cleaning and finally gave that up.