Tablesaw Crosscut Sled Build (Pics)

[lincmercguy]

I've avoided making a tablesaw crosscut sled for a long time because I didn't want to store it when I was stuck in the garage.  To avoid it, I would use the miter saw and flip the board over to finish the cut, use a circular saw for plywood, or use a circular saw and finish with a router for hardwood.  I had considered getting a track saw when I need to start the next major cabinet project.

So I finally built one because I had a bunch of tall drawer box pieces to cut and wanted them to be square.  I'm glad I did, it worked out pretty well.  I used maple for the miter runners, MDF for the main part, then some planed down 2x4's and extra plywood pieces for the fences.  I made sure the space between the fences was slightly longer than 24" for cabinet panels.  I replaced the T-track in the picture with a 36" one to do longer cutoffs.  

I think it turned out well.  I've used it a fair amount since.  The flip-stop is absolutely worth it.  When I cut to length, I flip it up to cut one end square, then flip it down to cut the other end to length.  I'll likely keep the miter saw setup as well since it has the Kreg measurement system.  But I will use this for anything wider than the miter saw can handle.

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I've avoided making a tablesaw crosscut sled for a long time because I didn't want to store it when I was stuck in the garage.  To avoid it, I would use the miter saw and flip the board over to finish the cut, use a circular saw for plywood, or use a circular saw and finish with a router for hardwood.  I had considered getting a track saw when I need to start the next major cabinet project.

So I finally built one because I had a bunch of tall drawer box pieces to cut and wanted them to be square.  I'm glad I did, it worked out pretty well.  I used maple for the miter runners, MDF for the main part, then some planed down 2x4's and extra plywood pieces for the fences.  I made sure the space between the fences was slightly longer than 24" for cabinet panels.  I replaced the T-track in the picture with a 36" one to do longer cutoffs.  

I think it turned out well.  I've used it a fair amount since.  The flip-stop is absolutely worth it.  When I cut to length, I flip it up to cut one end square, then flip it down to cut the other end to length.  I'll likely keep the miter saw setup as well since it has the Kreg measurement system.  But I will use this for anything wider than the miter saw can handle.

I'm getting ready to build one myself. I'll be using the plans I purchased from King's Fine Woodworking. I'm waiting for the 1/2" ply. Should be available today or tomorrow. I'll keep posting the progress.

Jim

[stav]

Nice solution.  I think you will find there are some things a table saw can just do better than other tools.  I recently found a super deal on a Makita track saw and got it.  Using it, I have discovered it is not the end all be all that track saws have been made out to be.  Its a good tool, but there are still areas where the table saw excels.

[lincmercguy]

Yeah, the track saw is no longer high on my list. I think this sled would be faster than a track saw, especially for multiple cuts. It certainly cross cuts cleaner than my regular circular saw with a clamp on straight edge.

[fredhargis]

Every time I see a build thread about a crosscut sled I think to myself I need to make one. Maybe this time I will, nicely done.

[bhh]

Every time I see a build thread about a crosscut sled I think to myself I need to make one. Maybe this time I will, nicely done.

Fred, you will not regret it.  The only time I don't use a cross cut sled is when I'm ripping (or using a tenon jig).  Had one for 30 years.  I used Kelly Mehler's design that has a Lexan hood that rides up and down.  Keeps sawdust out of my face and holds small pieces perfectly.   I've cut everything from 2" to 14' on it

[Gary G™]

Search the web for “marzluf crosscut sled”
Mark built the most beautiful sled ever seen on this forum!
Functional art!!!

http://www.woodworkstuff.net/CCSMark.html

[jteneyck]

Nice job but you really should add two or three more things to it.  A Lexan guard above the blade is a must for me.  It keeps the sawdust out of your face and just as important keeps you from putting your hands where they don't belong.  Second, there should be guard on the back so the blade isn't exposed at the end of a cut.  And third, it needs a stop so that you can't inadvertently push the sled past where the rear guard covers the blade.  

John

[lincmercguy]

I might add a top guard eventually. I usually wear a respirator with the tablesaw since there is always some sawdust. I try to be sure of my hand placement before pushing the sled. Even with a rear guard, I wouldn't want my hands near it. Maybe some warning tape on the rear fence near the blade would be a good reminder.

[JohnnyEgo]

Very nice!

I went 20-odd years without a sled until my son wanted to start cutting things. Now I'm sad I waited that long. I built mine with a dust collection port at the rear of the cut line, and it does a surprisingly good job at keeping the sawdust contained.

Mine has giant red labels all over it to remind 8 year old fingers where not to be, and the rear fence and dust box are shaped in a way to encourage little hands to be placed comfortably to the right and left.

I use mine so much now that it is a rare day I cart out the compound miter.