Saw Handle Finish

[UpstateNYdude]

I was hoping someone might be able to point me to a video or at least a description of the finish process a lot of the more renowned saw makers (Wenzloff, Two Lawyers, LN) use on their saw handles. I'm trying to replicate something similar to get the figure to pop better.

[enjuneer]

I was hoping someone might be able to point me to a video or at least a description of the finish process a lot of the more renowned saw makers (Wenzloff, Two Lawyers, LN) use on their saw handles. I'm trying to replicate something similar to get the figure to pop better.

I'm not sure want the other makers used, but LN has started to use the Peacock Oil product that Skelton Saws in England developed. I've played around with it on various types of wood and look forward to using it on a real project soon. It can be purchased from LN and Amazon.

[UpstateNYdude]

I'm not sure want the other makers used, but LN has started to use the Peacock Oil product that Skelton Saws in England developed. I've played around with it on various types of wood and look forward to using it on a real project soon. It can be purchased from LN and Amazon.

Do they apply and then buff at high speed or do they use any kind of shellac?

[Timberwolf]

Do they apply and then buff at high speed or do they use any kind of shellac?

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I have used Tru-Oil on saw handles, gunstocks, band-sawn boxes and other small projects.It is a tough finish and it has to be if used on gunstocks...Easy to repair if ever needed...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PKMzNfd-mXQ

Here's a shot of a DT saw I made years ago..The handle is finished with Tru-Oil, which you can buy at Walmart in the sporting goods dept...

[AHill]

Lie Nielsen never directly says if they use Peacock Oil on their saw handles. At least I can't find where they do. When they announced their new process, this is what they said:

"Our Curly Maple handles (saws, screwdrivers, etc) will soon have a new improved finish, developed to bring out the natural figure of the wood, without stain, and with a protective top coat, hand buffed to a smooth, lustrous finish."

About 5 weeks later, they announced they were selling Peacock Oil, and the accompanying pic in their FB page showed a cherry plane tote and curly maple saw handle. I suppose there's an implication it's used on their handles, but they never come right out and say it. I would think if they are actually using it on their handles, they would say so because it would enhance sales of the Peacock Oil.

If you look up Peacock Oil on Lie-Nielsen's website, they provide instructions on how to use it. It's somewhat expensive, at $20 for 100 ml, which is a little over 3 oz. The contents are a mixture of a petroleum-based solvent (40%), orange oil (20%), naptha (1%), a chemical salt as a drying agent, and the balance being probably a mixture of BLO, shellac, and beeswax. I say BLO, shellac and beeswax because tung oil was from China and not as available in the middle east. Shellac was more of an Indian thing, given the lac bugs that produce the secretion used in shellac are from India, but Peacock Oil says it's a combination of oils, resins, and wax. Shellac is a resin. It could be some kind of vegetable resin from juniper or pine. I don't know. Really, it's kind of irrelevant to whether LN uses it or not.

Tru-Oil is less than half the price of Peacock oil per oz.

[Timberwolf]

Lie Nielsen never directly says if they use Peacock Oil on their saw handles.  At least I can't find where they do.  When they announced their new process, this is what they said:

"Our Curly Maple handles (saws, screwdrivers, etc) will soon have a new improved finish, developed to bring out the natural figure of the wood, without stain, and with a protective top coat, hand buffed to a smooth, lustrous finish."

About 5 weeks later, they announced they were selling Peacock Oil, and the accompanying pic in their FB page showed a cherry plane tote and curly maple saw handle.  I suppose there's an implication it's used on their handles, but they never come right out and say it.  I would think if they are actually using it on their handles, they would say so because it would enhance sales of the Peacock Oil.

If you look up Peacock Oil on Lie-Nielsen's website, they provide instructions on how to use it.  It's somewhat expensive, at $20 for 100 ml, which is a little over 3 oz.  The contents are a mixture of a petroleum-based solvent (40%), orange oil (20%), naptha (1%), a chemical salt as a drying agent, and the balance being probably a mixture of BLO, shellac, and beeswax.  I say BLO, shellac and beeswax because tung oil was from China and not as available in the middle east.  Shellac was more of an Indian thing, given the lac bugs that produce the secretion used in shellac are from India, but Peacock Oil says it's a combination of oils, resins, and wax.  Shellac is a resin.  It could be some kind of vegetable resin from juniper or pine.  I don't know.  Really, it's kind of irrelevant to whether LN uses it or not.

Tru-Oil is less than half the price of Peacock oil per oz.

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Tru-Oil is less than half the price of Peacock oil per oz.

And no peacocks were harmed in the manufacture of it..... :I wonder how much oil you can squeeze out of one peacock......Hmmmm.

[hbmcc]

Tru-Oil is readily available and lots of folks are happy with it. A saw handle does not require much finish. I would say to shelve the spray can, Wagner, or model sprayer, and rub on several thin coats of what you choose. A rubbed finish always looks nicest. 

If you pay a chunk of change for paint make sure it has long shelf life. You need to throw out water based varnish after a year. I had a quart of "pure"(?) --emphasis on the question-- tung oil that turned white and went solid after one season. And, I never opened it. you are pretty safe with oil varnishes, Deft lacquer, and BLO. Mix small amounts of Shellac from flakes and dump it after you're finished.

I generally rub in BLO; let it sit for a week, and maybe, do another saturation.  BLO is rubbed with 600 grit. Second, I pounce (french polish) on hundreds of layers of shellac, usually garnet. And, because shellac melts under many thinners, I rub in a couple passes of oil based varnish last. 

When finished, it should look and feel like glass. None of this amounts to much thickness. It simply pops grain and creates a hard finish. Don't fret grip. Even rough hands like to hold smooth wood.

[Hank Knight]

Another vote for Tru Oil. I've been using it for a while and I like it. It's relatively inexpensive, easy to find, easy to apply, pops the grain, attractive and tough as nails. What's not to like? I'm sure there are many more involved finishes for tool handles, but Tru Oil covers all the bases, so why bother?

[John Walkowiak]

I was hoping someone might be able to point me to a video or at least a description of the finish process a lot of the more renowned saw makers (Wenzloff, Two Lawyers, LN) use on their saw handles. I'm trying to replicate something similar to get the figure to pop better.

[C. in Indy]

Something like 6-9 months ago, this forum had a thread which concluded that Lie Nielsen was using a "dip in Tru Oil" process for their tool handles in production.

Other makers such as Skelton Saws have a lot of Instagram posts & Instagram videos where they promote their Peacock Oil.   I have obtained Peacock Oil myself and I find it's not a high-build oil like Tru Oil is.   It takes a lot of patience over multiple coats, frankly more patience than I have....