How do you use a branding iron?

[Papa Jim]

I'm a reasonably competent hobby woodworker, but every time I pull out that Rockler "Handcrafted by" branding iron I feel like a beginner. I tried branding scrap first but all that accomplished was draining the heat out of it. I would say I can get a good brand about a third of the time. The primary problem is getting the whole image. Seems I get either "Handcrafted" or my name most of time. I've tried rocking the iron but with me that's no guarantee. Has anybody come up with a fool proof way of using this iron?

[FS7]

I have the same one or something very similar (given as a gift). Practicing on scrap definitely works to learn your technique.

Yes, it's hard to hold exactly straight. Rocking slightly helps, but what I've found is better is to plan on sanding after. If you pull it too soon, then you get a partial image and it is hard to line up again. If you pull it too late, you will cause some excess charring. 

Try this - on a piece of scrap, push the iron down hard and for longer than you think you need to. There's a good chance you'll get a good brand with charring around (which will look bad). Sand it after and the image will clear up dramatically.

If you can't sand after, it's a lot harder, but generally speaking branding after finishing regardless of what you use is never going to turn out well. No finish can take that kind of heat.

[Phil Thien]

I recently received a branding iron as a gift, it had the fire-type handle.

Before using it, I ordered one of the giant soldering iron elements and the adapter.

It works very nicely on scrap.

I'm working on a storage project and look forward to my first real use.

[6270_Productions]

My experience with mine.

It must be VERY hot.  Check adequate temperature by using a scrap piece of the same species.  If it is not hot enough, you will get a light brand - or - excess charring because you know you will have to maintain contact for an excessive period of time.

If it is VERY HOT, touch the iron in the "center" of the brand - then rock it forward - then backward - then left - then right.  Remove it from the surface.  It should be in contact less time than it takes to read the first sentence of this paragraph.

As stated before, from there you can expect to sand the brand.  This will make the letters much sharper and easier to read.

My experience indicates you can expect to brand about two items before you must heat the iron VERY HOT again.  Sometimes I am making in excess of 40 items that will need branded.  Yes, it takes a bunch of heat to keep the iron VERY HOT.

I usually use walnut, oak, or cherry.  I have not got much experience with softwoods and branding irons.

Oh, by the way did you notice the main point of this post?  (HINT:  something about VERY HOT)  

[R Clark]

I've had mine for about 15 years; it was a gift from LOML.

Mine is the electric version; it takes about 15 minutes to get up to working temperature.

I have to rock mine back and forth like the others.  This takes some practice to achieve a crisp edge around the brand.  Agree with the others that a test on a piece of scrap is needed; I do this every time.  I admit that I don't use mine in a production setting like others have posted.

If I'm going to use the brand, I will always do it before finishing.  That avoids the need to sand an "Aw shucks" out of the finish.

[Cooler]

I tried branding irons a long time ago and it was slow and tedious work and the results were uneven.

If I were inclined to put my name on my work in the future I would use a dry transfer or waterslide transfers.  They are capable of exquisite imagery. (I have not tried this myself, but it would be my future direction).

https://imagetransfers.com/

[Ohio Mike]

 Has anybody come up with a fool proof way of using this iron?

I used that same branding iron for years and was just as frustrated as you.

As you've found, it's lightweight and so takes a minute to recover after each brand.  It's not flat and so requires rocking left/right and up/down.

It helps a lot if you sand the area to be branded very smooth - like 220 grit.  It also helps to *lightly* dampen the wood immediately prior to applying the hot iron.

And finally, the foolproof solution for me is to make some 1/8 inch or 3/16 inch veneer of the same species as the project and brand it multiple times until I get a perfect imprint.  Then cut it out in a nice oval or rectangular shape and glue it on.

Mike

[FS7]

I used that same branding iron for years and was just as frustrated as you.

As you've found, it's lightweight and so takes a minute to recover after each brand.  It's not flat and so requires rocking left/right and up/down.

It helps a lot if you sand the area to be branded very smooth - like 220 grit.  It also helps to *lightly* dampen the wood immediately prior to applying the hot iron.

And finally, the foolproof solution for me is to make some 1/8 inch or 3/16 inch veneer of the same species as the project and brand it multiple times until I get a perfect imprint.  Then cut it out in a nice oval or rectangular shape and glue it on.

Mike

Following this, I have actually considered having custom engraved plates (1" x 3") in stainless or aluminum simply screwed on to the piece. It would be a lot less trouble than the iron.

[6270_Productions]

Following this, I have actually considered having custom engraved plates (1" x 3") in stainless or aluminum simply screwed on to the piece. It would be a lot less trouble than the iron.

Well . . . if you don't want the trouble and don't mind spending money, just ship your "stuff" to me and I will brand it for you.  Please include you branding iron and a return shipping label.

[hcbph]

I have to agree with 6270 on the method.  I've had a branding iron for probably 40 years now and have branded a lot of stuff.  I get the iron very hot and confirm it on scrap wood.  I then go for the real thing, bring it down firm on the target.  Then as noted I rock the iron slightly front to back and side to side.  I get good burns that way.