Addressing orange peel

[rwe2156]

I sprayed a couple projects with water based polyurethane.  The first one went fine.  I thinned it about 20% I am spraying with a 1.3mm tip/turbine.

The second one didn't go as well.  For some reason, I didn't thin the poly, it seems to spray well, but I ended up with a slight amount of orange peel in the finish.  I should mention is was quite humid compared to the firs day.

It mostly rubbed out with steel wool. At this point I'm trying to figure out what to do next, keep going with more coats of the poly, or try to rub it out more and risk burning through the finish.  Its native FL cherry that is dyed, so I really don't want to risk that.

I've also thought about Feed n Wax and steel wool.

Thanks.

[fredhargis]

This is the Varathane you mentioned in  the other posts? I think if it's "mostly rubbed out" I would go ahead an apply several more coats, then smooth it up again and apply a final coat. Be aware, using steel wool can leave tiny shards behind, and the water based finish will make them rust becoming quite visible....so be sure to wipe it down thoroughly before proceeding; if that's your choice.

[jteneyck]

Orange peel happens when the finish doesn't get atomized very well, which happens because the viscosity is too high for the N/N set and air pressure being used.  You had better results when you thinned it 20% because it atomized better.  Really wet coats tend to orange peel more easily, too.  

With a turbine set up with a pressurized cup you should be able to spray something around 45 seconds through a #4 Ford cup with a 1.3 N/N set.  See this article from Homestead Finishing for more info.:  Link   Thin your finish until it's around 45 seconds, but don't exceed whatever the max. recommended about is, typically 10%.  If you need to think it more to get the viscosity low enough then you should use a larger N/N set.  Also, adding GF's Extender will let the finish flow out better to help prevent orange peel.  

John