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I would glue. Nail choice is ok.
But, why 1"? Why not 1/4"? I believe it comes in 8' lengths, marketed as closet lining usually.
Steve
Mo.
I miss the days of using my dinghy with a girlfriend too. Zack Butler-4/18/24
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020
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I can buy cabin grade 1 x 8 for about half the price of the thin stuff at HD.
This comes in random 8, 10, 12 and 16 foot lengths. This is the same stuff we used on the job 5 years ago. Minimal waste. The room I will be doing is about 30 feet long- the longer boards will be nice
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You’ll be fine using a finish nail gun.
2” 15 gauge angled nails.
Gary
Please don’t quote the trolls.
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Did that in a house some years ago.
Stained and put on a couple of coats of finish, before we hung it, then touched up joints as needed. Much easier.
Hand nailed it-nail guns were pretty rare in those days.
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I installed 3/3" thick hardwood flooring on a ceiling in my son's exercise room once. I have a 15 guage finish nailer, but used a 7/32" narrow crown stapler instead. Reason? The room was under a concrete ceiling and a previous owner had installed lath nailers on 24" centers. I used the stapler because staples have better holding power.
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(10-11-2020, 05:55 PM)goaliedad Wrote: Planning to put T & G on a ceiling. The ceiling is drywalled but in bad shape. Painted with gloss paint. I will be doing some repairs before I install the T & G so it will have a decent fire barrier
My questions:
Use adhesive or not?
Hand nail or finish nailer? 16 ga 2 inch nails or longer
The ceiling is flat and I will be using 1 x 8 T & G
I helped a guy do a vaulted ceiling about 5 years ago. No glue and I think we hand nailed but I suffer from CRS. Can’t Remember Stuff
1x8 will be fine without glue. it will be hard enough getting the tongue aligned with the warped boards and going over drywall so save the glue mess.
WoodNET... the new safespace
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Spent this weekend putting up T&G on a new porch. Used a 15ga stapler, couple of 1.5" staples in each rafter, no glue. Seemed to be plenty strong.
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I wouldn't go with the glue. I would though use a stapler. Better holding power.
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Over/under drywall? The first thing I would do is mark the exact center of every joist, both top and bottom and then check to see if the lines need to be bowed in the middle because someone pushed the framing to line up with sheet ends. If the ceiling has been strapped with 1x3, now is the time to screw it to the joists/rafters. (I wouldn't trust 6d or 8d common nails to hold up the boards too.) My only other suggestion is to use shiplap with a single exposed fastener at each joist instead of toe-nailing through a tongue at 45* through drywall expecting not only to hold the board up but to also pull them together.
1x8 t&g directly to joists or rafters? Finish nail gun is what I use, but I'll use a couple of "hand fire" 8d galv. finish to hold the really bowed pieces in place. Sometimes I even have to use a "v" carving chisel to create a place for face nailing and glue the face back over the set nail(s).
Sign at N.E. Vocational School Cabinetmaking Shop 1976, "Free knowledge given daily... Bring your own container"
