Hardwood floor repair question

[ed kerns]

I've been asked to help a buddy repair his hardwood floor. Long story short, a section of wall was removed that separated two rooms. Both rooms had wood, one floor is Fir the other is Maple (It's a very old house). We need to replace about a 6' x6" board where the dividing wall once stood. This board will set perpendicular to the adjoining floors, so there is no way to make this a discreet patch.
My questions are; 1) Will I have a problem with wood movement on about a 6" wide replacement board? 2) Should I just screw the new wood to the subfloor and then plug the screw holes? 3) Because I am separating a Maple and a Fir floor, is there any logic to what species the replacement board should be? (The old floors are natural, but have 75 years of patina, so I'm thinking we might just stain the patch board dark and let it contrast.)
I'm a long time woodworker, and have even installed hardwood once, but I have no experience to draw on for this kind of a repair.
I'd appreciate any sage advice. Thanks!

[jteneyck]

Ed, I've never done what you need to either, but I think your plan will work fine.  I'd go with fir if you can get it, quarter or rift sawn being best.  Screw it down close to the center line and plug the holes, or nail it down and fill the much smaller holes.  

John

[ed kerns]

Ed, I've never done what you need to either, but I think your plan will work fine.  I'd go with fir if you can get it, quarter or rift sawn being best.  Screw it down close to the center line and plug the holes, or nail it down and fill the much smaller holes.  

John

Thanks John, good idea to attach near the center line. I'm thinking screws at least till I see how solid the subfloor is. I'll look for something rift or quarter sawn. I've got a few mills around so should be able to come up with something properly milled and dried. I've seen pics of the rooms. The Maple side is T&G, but the Fir side looks just nailed down. Pretty rustic, but a ton of character.
I'm a little concerned that the two floors are not at the same level, but hopefully they're close. I'm thinking I'll plane the new board just a wee bit skinny and then shim if needed with rosin or tar paper underneath when I install....probably over thinking but I'm not used to working in someone else's home. In my own shop I'm competent enough to get myself out of most whatever fix I get myself into!

[WoodworkerTom]

On one of those home improvement (Restoring Galviston???) shows they used a mosaic tile to fill in the void. Then you dont need to match either wood species.

[rwe2156]

I have done something similar to make an end cap where a floor was at a different level.

In my case I routed a groove on the endgrain & made a matching tongue for the replacement board.  Nailed the opposite side.  Theory being, if there was any movement the board wouldn't crack.  But this was a wider board than yours, 6" isn't going to move much to matter.

I wouldn't screw it, though, nails will hold it just fine, less noticeable.

[K. L. McReynolds]

You can use finish screws(smaller heads) and fill the holes with sawdust/glue mix or use regular(deck) screws and plugs from the wood used to more closely match grain patterns.

I would use maple for the addin because maple moves less(moisture/humidity) than fir.

[jteneyck]

You can use finish screws(smaller heads) and fill the holes with sawdust/glue mix or use regular(deck) screws and plugs from the wood used to more closely match grain patterns.

I would use maple for the addin because maple moves less(moisture/humidity) than fir.

Not really.  

Douglas Fir:  Radial: 4.5%, Tangential: 7.3%

Hard Maple:  Radial: 4.8%, Tangential: 9.9%

John  

[Kansas City Fireslayer]

I would use a bead of polyurethane glue down the middle of the board only. Face nail with a 15 g finish nailer sparingly. Nails will allow for movement a bit better then a screw and be less apparent. Only adding glue to the center of the board may help with seasonal movement as well. Make 7 degree pie shaped wedges to fill big gaps. Glue in place a tad proud and trim flush with tool of choice.

For thickness, I’d go back and forth between putting it in place and planing it down with either a portable bench planer or hand plane. You could also carefully sand a bit after it’s in place using blue taper to help protect the other boards. I’d probably use the triangular head attachment on my Fein tool in the corners at a low speed and a light touch. Some hand sanding may be enough as well.