Compressor pulley

[MstrCarpenter]

Put new a new reed valve assy. on my Puma PP6060V air compressor today. Actually I think I put it on about 5 times before I got it right; someone else had taken it apart about a month ago. it seemed fine for an hour or so before it started making knocking noise. The compressor's 10.5" od single groove pulley made out of lightweight alloy is broken at the shaft opening. The tapered shaft on the compressor is about .900 at the end and about 1.090 nearer to the housing. I can't seem to find pulleys for a tapered  shaft at a reasonable cost. Any help is appreciated. We're still looking for a washer and L.H. threaded bolt.

[MstrCarpenter]

I just found this online at the big orange store. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Replacement-...lsrc=aw.ds
It looks the same. Does anyone know (or can determine) if this will fit my tapered shaft?
B.T.W. My Craftsman compressor just died. Hopefully just reed valves, but all I have left are a couple of twin tank jobsite compressors and they're too slow for sanding.

[Stwood_]

Could be tapered. HArd to tell with the all black picture

[daddo]

The answers to customer questions at the Home Depot page says;

"The center bore is tapered. It is .848” on the small end and .940” on the large end."

"It has no keyway and a tapered diameter for a 3/4 diameter tapered drive shaft"

[Timberwolf]

The answers to customer questions at the Home Depot page says;

"The center bore is tapered. It is .848” on the small end and .940” on the large end."

"It has no keyway and a tapered diameter for a 3/4 diameter tapered drive shaft"

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I would check it to see how it compares to a N0. 2 Morse taper...seems pretty close...

[MstrCarpenter]

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I would check it to see how it compares to a N0. 2 Morse taper...seems pretty close...

Upon further checking and a little math, it seems like it could be a #3MT. My math shows the largest end of #3MT would be 1.010" at the full 4-5/8" length, and .910 dia. at 2-5/8" (the pulley is about 2" thick), which aligns with my measurements.
Assuming the answers at H.D. are correct, it appears the opening is too small. But I'll have to double check that my shaft isn't coated with molten pulley to be sure.

I thought this was going to be easy!

[kurt18947]

Upon further checking and a little math, it seems like it could be a #3MT. My math shows the largest end of #3MT would be 1.010" at the full 4-5/8" length, and .910 dia. at 2-5/8" (the pulley is about 2" thick), which aligns with my measurements.
Assuming the answers at H.D. are correct, it appears the opening is too small. But I'll have to double check that my shaft isn't coated with molten pulley to be sure.

I thought this was going to be easy!

You can get "2 part" pulleys. The pulley and hub are separate pieces and there are a LOT of different hub configurations. I'll bet you can find one that fits your shaft. I'm no help finding the correct hub though sorry to say. I'll bet a bearings and drives business or one of the mail order industrial supply businesses can fix you up.

[TDKPE]

Consider a split-bore hub and sheave system, like this from Surplus Center.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/Power-Tran...BKH110.axd

10.0” pitch diameter with a 1/2” belt.  No fan blades, though.  Don’t know if you need them, but most compressors use the ‘flywheel’ as a fan.

Get a straight bore hub, and have a local shop bore it with the proper size and tape.  It would be best to bring the compressor shaft (or the whole pump) to them to determine the proper taper. They can also broach a key way if needed.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/Power-Tran...913-43.axd

I don’t know what’s keeping the existing sheave on the shaft, though.  There are split-bore sheaves with clamp bolts, which this is definitely not, and maybe that’s what you need.  A picture or two would help.

[MstrCarpenter]

Thanks for all the suggestions. Tom, the compressor shaft is tapered way too much for the hub to grab hold of.

It's fixed! Here's what I did. Originally the shaft was about 3/8" short of the outside face of the pulley so a bolt and washer would press it on tight and (supposedly) keep it there. Running it without that bolt reamed the pulley bore until there was enough play that the inside 1/2" of the pulley cracked and broke, but there was still a 3/8" portion that had never been touched. I used a small triangle file to make 6 witness marks around the inside then used a round file until they just barely remained. My first attempt was close enough to just use some valve grinding compound to lap (?) the pulley to the shaft which is now recessed only about 1/8". I put the bolt and washer back on (with loc-tight) and she's up and running again!

Parts for the Craftsman came today.

[Stwood_]

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