#13
I'm building a live edge dining table using air dried walnut slabs for the top, and cherry for the legs.

I'm looking for a matte finish, preferably wipe on, that will provide durability for use as a dining table. It will get mostly occasional use, nit every day, but I want it to be moisture resistant for things like spills.

All advice is welcome.

Thanks
Jason
Mesurei, cutti, cursi

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#14
Any wiping varnish should meet your needs.  I like Arm-R-Seal satin but you could use Waterlox OSF for a darker hue and rub it out after it's cured for a month.  

John
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#15
(02-05-2021, 01:12 PM)jteneyck Wrote: Any wiping varnish should meet your needs.  I like Arm-R-Seal satin but you could use Waterlox OSF for a darker hue and rub it out after it's cured for a month.  

John

this.  john nailed it.  ARM on walnut is my go-to, but waterlox is also beautiful.  one's a urethane resin, one's an alkyd resin.  the waterlox is deeper color, more orange.  on my walnut pieces in my house, i use arm-r-seal over seal-a-cell.

good luck, post pictures when you're done!  sounds like one heck of a piece.
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#16
(02-09-2021, 08:00 PM)zaret Wrote: this.  john nailed it.  ARM on walnut is my go-to, but waterlox is also beautiful.  one's a urethane resin, one's an alkyd resin.  the waterlox is deeper color, more orange.  on my walnut pieces in my house, i use arm-r-seal over seal-a-cell.

good luck, post pictures when you're done!  sounds like one heck of a piece.

Not that it matters much, but Waterlox uses a phenolic resin.  P&L 38 (I think that's the name) uses an alkyd resin.  And you are right that Waterlox gives a deeper color.  Arm-R-Seal is actually pretty clear for an oil based varnish.  I've used it on curly maple and it imparts very little amber hue.  

John
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#17
(02-10-2021, 10:20 AM)jteneyck Wrote: Not that it matters much, but Waterlox uses a phenolic resin.  P&L 38 (I think that's the name) uses an alkyd resin.  And you are right that Waterlox gives a deeper color.  Arm-R-Seal is actually pretty clear for an oil based varnish.  I've used it on curly maple and it imparts very little amber hue.  

John

John - thanks for this, of course, you are correct.  arm-r-seal is wonderful stuff... in fact, i used some just this morning on three walnut mantles. 

by the way - my go-to now for hard maple is odie's oil.  i'm yet to find a more beautiful finish on maple.  pretty on walnut, too.  and, zero VOCs, which is nice.
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#18
(02-10-2021, 01:50 PM)zaret Wrote: John - thanks for this, of course, you are correct.  arm-r-seal is wonderful stuff... in fact, i used some just this morning on three walnut mantles. 

by the way - my go-to now for hard maple is odie's oil.  i'm yet to find a more beautiful finish on maple.  pretty on walnut, too.  and, zero VOCs, which is nice.

Thanks.  I've wanted to try Odie's Oil.  Might just have to now.  

John
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#19
I hope that baby stays flat!!

Are you installing any metal braces?
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#20
(02-10-2021, 10:36 AM)rwe2156 Wrote: I hope that baby stays flat!!

Are you installing any metal braces?

No. That woods been in the shop for ~3 years and off the mill for at least 6. It hasn't moved, and it is made op of 4 different boards, and the grain direction alternates. None of my live edge pieces have moved at all.
Jason
Mesurei, cutti, cursi

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Finish advice for live edge walnut dining table


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