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Don’t apply poly directly.
Buy or make from flakes (best method) a 1-1/2 to 2# cut of dewaxed shellac and wipe it on.
Do several coats of the shellac before any other finishes.
Gary
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Have made several pieces from reclaimed pine and I used burnt umber oil stain thinned with mineral spirits or terpentine. Before applying stain, sand to 120, wipe down, cover with shellac or some other sealer. when dry, sand lightly, apply stain, let sit until piece is completely stained. Wipe down. If additional color is wanted or needed, use the straight stain sparingly to glaze and reapply sealer. Finish with whatever your choice is , shellac, lacquer, etc. If you dont seal before staining, you will get lots of variation because of the late wood, early wood grain,
Mike
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Thanks. I appreciate the responses.
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(02-20-2021, 11:38 AM)Scott W Wrote: I want to use this method of a finish for some pine stuff. Side table etc...
https://www.popularwoodworking.com/techn...ning-pine/
It suggested a topcoat. Other then straight out of the can poly I haven't used anything. Is there a better choice with this finish "system"?
IMO - staining softer woods (pine, poplar, etc.) is a challenge to prevent blotching. I've tried the shellac sealer then stain route with mixed success. in my experience darker stains work better than lighter stains and dyes work better tan stain. Pine is cheap - buy some small pieces and experiment.
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I met Norm Abrams at a National Hardware show in Chicago a number of years ago. He said that he only ever uses oil-based Minwax polyshades on pine. If you pick the right color the finish is foolproof and you only need to apply one type of finish.
It is the only finish I use on pine and I agree with Abrams. If you can apply poly successfully you can apply polyshades. I apply one, two or three coats. Once I get the desired tone, I switch to clear poly so as not to darken it further.
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I use polyshade a lot. I don't use a brush but a cloth to wipe in. It works for me.
I read the article - when I don't use polyshade I pretty much follow the procedures outlined except I use lacquer instead of shellac; a lot less yellow. But then It depends on the color I can searching for.
Pine and raising grain. Pine is always going to grain raise. So you do need to deal with it before any thing is done to the wood. Even after you sand after raising if you use any water based color it will raise a bit again. Deal with it then. If you wait until after the shellac you will probably sand through the shellac. Pine can get a great finish. Just go through the process and keep the raised grain unercontrol.
John
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Have you ever used Polyshades over an existing finish.
I have a 1990's golden oak kitchen. It definitely looks dated. I was thinking of making it darker. Removing the old finish would be a horrific amount of work. But a cleaning and a coat of SealCoat and it is ready for Polyshades. I could go to a dark umber, which feels more contemporary to me.
Any thoughts?
I will probably test on drawer backs first. It is the next project up. Or I can make new cabinets or just new doors and paint the rails and stiles. But putting down a couple of coats of Polyshades is going to be a lot less work (and a lot less expense).
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