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What gives? I had front and rear snipe before...I added this melamine torsion box and, while the wood slides awesomely now, the snipe is still there. Front and rear.
What am I doing wrong? I know if I use sacrificial stock before and after then I can get rid of it but that requires a degree of athleticism and coordination that I only aspire to.
Suggestions?
"Life is too short for bad tools.".-- Pedder 7/22/11
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Just a WAG, but I see you have leveling legs on the torsion box, have you tried raising the two ends of the torsion box just a little, that might help?
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(02-23-2021, 06:44 AM)barryvabeach Wrote: Just a WAG, but I see you have leveling legs on the torsion box, have you tried raising the two ends of the torsion box just a little, that might help? I know the solution. Get a stationary planer. Ive had 3 different ones. Parks 12". Coice Crane 12". And a Rockwell Invicta 13" All planed with no snipe.
The stand on the Rockwell I have is only about 24" square. Not much larger than a portable on stand.
I long for the days when Coke was a soft drink, and Black and Decker was a quality tool.
Happiness is a snipe free planer
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02-23-2021, 08:13 AM
(This post was last modified: 02-23-2021, 08:16 AM by Bill_de.)
(02-22-2021, 10:11 PM)Scott W Wrote: What gives? I had front and rear snipe before...I added this melamine torsion box and, while the wood slides awesomely now, the snipe is still there. Front and rear.
What am I doing wrong? I know if I use sacrificial stock before and after then I can get rid of it but that requires a degree of athleticism and coordination that I only aspire to.
Suggestions?
I have had the 735 planer for a number of years, and have never been successful at completely eliminating snipe. Now I just plan for it, cut the ends off and burn them in the fireplace on a cold winters night.
Hopefully somebody here has a better solution.
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See ya later,
Bill
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(02-23-2021, 08:13 AM)Bill_de Wrote: I have had the 735 planer for a number of years, and have never been successful at completely eliminating snipe. Now I just plan for it, cut the ends off and burn them in the fireplace on a cold winters night.
Hopefully somebody here has a better solution.
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I do have a wood stove that we use.
That is turning lemons into lemonade for sure.
"Life is too short for bad tools.".-- Pedder 7/22/11
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02-23-2021, 09:29 AM
(This post was last modified: 02-23-2021, 09:32 AM by Handplanesandmore.)
The box is in one piece so you can't really raise both ends to lift up the stock as it enters or exits the machine. You can do it with your hand. Avoid deep cuts.
The simplest solution is to cut off the snipes. That's why I leave the checks and rough ends on a board until after I plane it.
Simon
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02-23-2021, 10:44 AM
(This post was last modified: 02-23-2021, 10:45 AM by jteneyck.)
Have you checked the feed rollers' spring force? Perhaps they are not set correctly. Also, does the head lock on that planer? If so, perhaps it's not working correctly. If there is no locking feature then maybe something's worn and the head rocks. In any case, I don't think the bed is the proble, it's more likely the head.
John
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I don't think snipe is a function of the in and outfeed tables as much as it is a function of flex in the head allowing some twist when climbing onto and then off of a board.
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When I have snipe problems with my D733, it usually because I am planing a very long board and the weight of the overhanging infeed and outfeed ends puts upward pressure on the cutter head. If I can adequately support both ends, I can minimize or eliminate the snipe. With your extended table set up, try planing a short board that has minimum overhang and is fully supported by the infeed and outfeed areas. See if you still get snipe. If you don't, that will give you a clue as to what you need to do.
I don't have an extension like yours. So, for short work pieces of around 3' long, I have found the best way to eliminate snipe is to feed narrow strips along each side of the work piece rather than try to feed scraps ahead of and behind. I don't have enough arms for the latter. With the strips, I can easily hold them along side until they start feeding through. Of course, they need to extend about 4-6" beyond both ends of the work piece.
If I'm planing long boards and need to make several passes (most of the time) I will hotmelt glue some narrow strips along the sides of the leading and following ends of the work piece. They only need to be 10-12" long so you have 4-6" of glue surface and 4-6" of protrusion.
If I have enough length to waste, I just cut off the snipe.
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Scott, I had the 734 years ago and when I read John's mention of the "head lock", a light went off. I frequently forgot to engage the lock. IIRC I got much better results when I remembered to use the lock. I agree with John, if your bed is flat, head movement may be the problem.
"I tried being reasonable..........I didn't like it." Clint Eastwood
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