Tormek problem - chisels coming out skewed

[Juss1]

I picked up a used tormek 2000 super grind a while back but just started using now. I went to practice on some beater chisels and they keep coming out skewed. And no they’re not supposed to be :
. I butt it up all the way to edge of the guide.  But it comes out skewed still. I put a small square against the guide and chisel and it was off a little so I tried to make them perfectly square to one another but still get skewed results. The guide bar had a very small bow at the end so I lightly hammered it till it got pretty close to flat and still get skewed results. Any suggestions?

[Mike L B]

True the stone to the tool support.
Adjust the clamping pressure on the jig. Slightly loosen 1 screw and tighten the other until you get an even grind.
The new SE-77 Square edge jig is easier to use than the old one.

[Derek Cohen]

The problem is very simple, as is the solution. Your photo shows that the chisel is held at a skew in the holder.

The 2000 model has the holder which registered the blade front. This was replaced by a holder where the blade is held against the back. Registering the back is important for keeping the grind parallel and square. Get the newer holder to go with the 2000. Also, get a diamond tipped surfacer (itbruns on the arm) to true the wheel parallel to the arm.

In the current set up, ensure that the blade is held parallel with the wheel. Tighten the knobs at each side carefully to achieve this.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Timberwolf]

The problem is very simple, as is the solution. Your photo shows that the chisel is held at a skew in the holder.

The 2000 model has the holder which registered the blade front. This was replaced by a holder where the blade is held against the back. Registering the back is important for keeping the grind parallel and square. Get the newer holder to go with the 2000. Also, get a diamond tipped surfacer (itbruns on the arm) to true the wheel parallel to the arm.

In the current set up, ensure that the blade is held parallel with the wheel. Tighten the knobs at each side carefully to achieve this.

Regards from Perth

Derek

....................
I drilled and tapped the left side and installed a screw so the clamping force could be adjusted evenly. That cured it..

[Juss1]

Yah I realized the problem after I posted the pic. Derek is 100% correct. I had the right knob tightened waaay more than the left.

Also I forgot to mention I did true up the wheel before.

Thanks for the suggestion of the new holder. I’ll go and order one.

I also noticed the notices the newer model has a micro adjust to raise and lower the arm. Can I use it with my 2000 model? Is it worth the upgrade. I’ve been just getting it close and then slightly tapping the arm down to get the height set.

[Juss1]

A couple of follow up questions.

1. Do you guys flatten the backs of chisels and plane blades on the tormek as well or switch to stones for that?  I've seen some recommendations of using the side of the stone and a video using the leather wheel.

2.  I have the older truing tool.  Similar to the Jet model in the pic below.  Is the TT-50 much better and worth the upgrade?


3.  Do you find you can get you plane and chisel blades as sharp using leather wheel as you can going up to an 8000 stone?

[Bach]

A couple of follow up questions.

1. Do you guys flatten the backs of chisels and plane blades on the tormek as well or switch to stones for that?  I've seen some recommendations of using the side of the stone and a video using the leather wheel.

2.  I have the older truing tool.  Similar to the Jet model in the pic below.  Is the TT-50 much better and worth the upgrade?


3.  Do you find you can get you plane and chisel blades as sharp using leather wheel as you can going up to an 8000 stone?

I like the one on the bottom (I think that's the tt-50). I use it to keep the wheel true while also making the wheel rough to increase grinding performance.

[AHill]

The problem is the way the chisel is clamped. It's clear your clamp is very tight on the right side, and that's what's causing more pressure to be applied to the wheel on that side of the chisel. The clamp needs to have even pressure along the entire back of the chisel. A similar problem happens with the Lee Valley Veritas Mk II honing guide.

[fredhargis]

I have an older Tormek (the original) and I use one of the micro adjust tool rests on it, works fine. The others above answered your question about the skew.

[dry heat]

I have an older Tormek (the original) and I use one of the micro adjust tool rests on it, works fine. The others above answered your question about the skew.

I too, have an older Tormek and had similar problems, mostly with plane irons, though not as sever as what your picture shows. Getting the pressure on each side of the tool to be sharpened takes some fiddling and testing. One thing that helped me, and I don't remember who first mentioned it in the discussion regarding the problem, which was common with the earlier Tormek,  is to draw a line at a right angle on the wheel with a marker. this gives you a pretty good reference with which to check how the iron is presented to the wheel. This is most helpful when sharpening carving tools. Speaking of carving tools, if Tormek ever comes up with a jig for sharpening small palm chisels particular vee tools, caricature carvers are going to nominate them for sainthood. Getting the new jig is, no doubt, the best was to go but it still requires attention to how you adjust the clamping pressure. 
ES