Posts: 923
Threads: 0
Joined: Nov 1999
Location: Williston ND
It would not take much length of this rebar grinding you want to do to make a trip to your local steel shop for a length of cold rolled round bar the more economical source. If you want to use your sander a ceramic 36 grit belt would last much longer than the aluminum oxide (AO) normally used for wood. You can probably buy around three AO belts for the price of one ceramic but the ceramic will still out-cut and outlast the AO.
If you are thinking short lengths and convenience you can safely sand the rebar on your sander. Chuck a piece of the rebar into a drill. You may have to shape the end with a grinder until it fits. Take a scrap block of 2 by 4 and cut a V notch into it and use this to push the rebar into the belt sander while rotating the rebar with the drill. If you cut the V notch a little off center you can use the block on both edges so you are not always sanding on the same spot of the belt.
Proud maker of large quantities of sawdust......oh, and the occasional project!
Posts: 7,421
Threads: 1
Joined: Sep 2005
If the rebar is sufficiently straight you could put it on a lathe and use a grinder mounted on a tool holder.
We have one in our shop at work.
I doubt that it is going to be logical to grind rebar. I assume you are choosing rebar for the low cost of steel. Smoothing the rebar surface is going to be too much work and too much iron oxide dust to be worthwhile.
Keep in mind that breathing that dust is not wise:
https://www.diversitech.ca/industrial-so...-deburring
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
Posts: 9,536
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2005
Location: Orlando FL
Make a jig to hold the bar while you run it against the sander.
Posts: 10,717
Threads: 1
Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Orlando, Florida
(06-04-2021, 06:38 AM)Cwconlon Wrote: I use rebar in most of my builds. It is very cheap but it has a rustic look. An expensive upgrade is smooth aluminum or steel spindles. I have a large 89” edge sander but holding rebar to it would put my fingers in some danger. I’m sure there is a great technique or a machine that will solve this for me. Doing so would lower my material cost quite a bit. Any advice is welcome. Thanks!
Belt sander with 40 grit paper.
Still Learning,
Allan Hill
Posts: 769
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2007
Location: ATL
I cannot imagine a scenario in which the sandpaper and your time needed to “sand down” rebar to smooth will be more economical than buying smooth bar.
And, that’s before you factor in wear and tear and depreciation on your sander.
Then there’s the dust that will be created from this questionable endeavor. How you gonna handle all that ?
If this is a business , the customer is paying the material anyway. If it’s a charity, change your design. If it’s a hobby, just pay the freight.
Or change your design.
Posts: 24,331
Threads: 0
Joined: Feb 2002
Location: Elizabethtown, KY
Cold rolled steel, as opposed to "hot rolled" doesn't have the mill scale that has to be ground off for a good finish.
It's price from a steel supplier should be reasonable but you may have to buy a 20' stick.
That's what I would do instead of risking sanding my knuckles and fingertips!
"Truth is a highway leading to freedom" --Kris Kristofferson
Wild Turkey
We may see the writing on the wall, but all we do is criticize the handwriting.
(joined 10/1999)
Posts: 1,289
Threads: 0
Joined: Sep 2012
Location: Mobile, Alabama
06-06-2021, 10:45 AM
(This post was last modified: 06-06-2021, 10:46 AM by Willyou.)
There is such a thing as "smooth rebar". It is used in concrete work mainly as "dowels" to allow movement in adjoining slabs. I have no idea if it is the same steel or cost as cold rolled bars or not.