#23
Turning a 5 1/2" diameter bowl that ended up being less than 1/4" thick on the sides. When I flipped it around to vacuum chuck it to turn off the tenon the vacuum pump would only pull 10" hg. Put some Scotch packing tape on the sides of the bowl and the vacuum doubled so I felt safe turning off the tenon. Sanded the bottom then pulled off the tape--it left a residue that I'm afraid that I won't be able to remove completely before applying General Finishes bowl finish. I had planned to apply the finish off of the lathe.

Is there a good solvent to completely remove the goo? I have mineral spirits and denatured alcohol here but can pick up whatever is best. Also, there must be a better way to seal up the bowl that won't leave a mess. I have some of the 6" wide shrink wrap but didn't think I could get it to stick to such a small bowl.

I realize this should be posted in turning but there doesn't seem to be a lot of traction there---

Thanks,  g
I've only had one...in dog beers.

"You can see the stars and still not see the light"
The Eagles: Already Gone
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#24
(07-13-2021, 09:22 AM)shoottmx Wrote: Turning a 5 1/2" diameter bowl that ended up being less than 1/4" thick on the sides. When I flipped it around to vacuum chuck it to turn off the tenon the vacuum pump would only pull 10" hg. Put some Scotch packing tape on the sides of the bowl and the vacuum doubled so I felt safe turning off the tenon. Sanded the bottom then pulled off the tape--it left a residue that I'm afraid that I won't be able to remove completely before applying General Finishes bowl finish. I had planned to apply the finish off of the lathe.

Is there a good solvent to completely remove the goo? I have mineral spirits and denatured alcohol here but can pick up whatever is best. Also, there must be a better way to seal up the bowl that won't leave a mess. I have some of the 6" wide shrink wrap but didn't think I could get it to stick to such a small bowl.

I realize this should be posted in turning but there doesn't seem to be a lot of traction there---

Thanks,  g

I'd recommend acetone.  Think that some acetone and a woven abrasive pad would be a good combination.  Be sure to have adequate ventilation.  Alcohol would do a bit of grain raising, but you might as well try before you buy.

It's one of the reasons I do mortises, which are decorated and sanded before the piece is turned around. 

Got Cole jaws?  If you turn with them in mind you can snug outside and work a bottom with a gentle touch.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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#25
Thanks MM, I'll try the DNA first, should be able to vac chuck it enough to sand any fuzz that pops up. Since there's a vacuum chuck on the shelf I didn't see a use for cole jaws. The rim on this bowl wouldn't stand up to clamping anyhow.

[attachment=36410]

Again thanks, your help is appreciated,

go
I've only had one...in dog beers.

"You can see the stars and still not see the light"
The Eagles: Already Gone
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#26
I agree with the acetone choice.  Of all the solvents available to woodworkers, acetone is the safest to use.  You can actually ingest a bit of it  without getting sick and women use it on finger nails all the time to remove polish.  It is my first choice for a solvent in all cases.

Heat works great to remove labels and tape.  Most pressure sensitive adhesives are heat activated.  Using a hair drier to warm up the tape will facilitate removal of the tape, but may not remove all the adhesive.

Most pressure sensitive adhesives can be removed with prolonged exposure to oil.  If you are going to apply an oil finish, you can check and see if the oil finish will remove the adhesive. 

(If you ever get one of those "you are parked illegally" labels on your car, slather on a 1/4" of mayonnaise over the entire surface and let it sit overnight.  Mayo is about 90% oil, and it does not run all over the place, so it is a good choice.  In the morning take some clean rags and wipe the label off. Or wash it off with soap and water.  The oil will have dissolved all the adhesive.)

If the acetone and oil do not work, then try mineral spirits.  We used to be able to get tri-chlor in small bottles, but I doubt that they are available anymore. 

WD-40 dissolves a lot of adhesives, but probably would mess up any finish.
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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#27
Cooler,

Would mayonnaise also work on those stickers the dealer slaps on your truck?

Cliff
‘The problem with the world is that intelligent people are full of doubts, while the stupid ones are full of confidence
Charles Bukowski
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#28
(07-13-2021, 03:36 PM)cpolubin Wrote: Cooler,

Would mayonnaise also work on those stickers the dealer slaps on your truck?

Cliff

The mayo works well on the "do not park here" stickers mainly because those stickers use a strong adhesive and very cheap grade of paper.  The cheap paper (not much better than newsprint paper) is very absorbent.  The dealer stickers are foil or mylar and the mayo probably would not penetrate.

But do not despair!
Big Grin

Heating the surface with a hair dryer for about 5 minutes will soften the adhesive and allow you to peel off the label.  The mayo left on the residue overnight will allow you to wipe it off.  You can also use vegetable oil on a saturated rag, but the mayo is easier to place (and keep in place) for the 10 to 20 hours required.  And it is cheap enough for occasional use.  I keep the squeeze bottles in my house so it is always available.  

I used mayo to remove the residue from a Iphone holder I stuck on the dash of my car.  It worked perfectly.  I removed the holder with a patient application of a hair dryer.  I guess a heat gun would have worked too, but that gets hot enough to do some real damage to paint and plastic, so I feel safer using a hair dryer.

If you want to remove labels from a jar or bottle, fill the jar with really hot water (but don't get the label wet) and leave it for about 5 minutes.  The label will lift right off.  The residue, if any remains, will usually rub off with mineral oil, vegetable oil or some similar oil.

I have not tried it, but I suspect Vaseline would work also.  But it would be a lot more effort to remove than mayo.
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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#29
(07-14-2021, 07:22 AM)Cooler Wrote: If you want to remove labels from a jar or bottle, fill the jar with really hot water (but don't get the label wet) and leave it for about 5 minutes.  The label will lift right off.  The residue, if any remains, will usually rub off with mineral oil, vegetable oil or some similar oil.

I have not tried it, but I suspect Vaseline would work also.  But it would be a lot more effort to remove than mayo.

Yep, mayonnaise is oil, egg yolk and vinegar.  Non-polar solvents all do pretty much the same, but lower viscosities will penetrate paper and wood better.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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#30
Lots of great information here. There isn't a lot of adhesive stuck to the bowl, just enough of a film to feel. I think the acetone route is what I'll try first, my sweetie has a good sized jug of nail polish remover that she says I can borrow. If it needs sanding I'll vacuum chuck it with tailstock support.

Just thought--LOML has stuff called Press N' Seal which appears to be saran wrap with a sticky side. It sticks to plates and storage containers but doesn't seem to leave a residue at all. I may try that stuff the next time I'm in this pickle.

Thanks for the info!!
I've only had one...in dog beers.

"You can see the stars and still not see the light"
The Eagles: Already Gone
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#31
Mayonnaise works great on BLT's too!.
Smile
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#32
If you don't have acetone, lacquer thinner (that usually has a percentage of acetone) also works.
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Remove tape residue from sanded wood?


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