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08-20-2021, 03:27 AM
(This post was last modified: 08-20-2021, 03:30 AM by iclark.)
Is the switch on the hot side or the ground side of the power? Have you used the multimeter to check for continuity across the switch (with the saw unplugged)?
Saws often seem to quit working because of sawdust accumulating in the switch.
Have you tried spinning the blade by hand and then turning on the switch (with your fingers out of the way) while the blade is spinning to see if the saw runs then?
If the switch is good, then search the net for a parts diagram for that model and see if it has a starter capacitor.
"the most important safety feature on any tool is the one between your ears." - Ken Vick
A wish for you all: May you keep buying green bananas.
Posts: 14,851
Threads: 10
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: southeastern VA
The manual
here includes a parts breakdown.
It might give you an idea for a hidden screw or retainer that will let you take it apart.
I hope that someone else here can help.
"the most important safety feature on any tool is the one between your ears." - Ken Vick
A wish for you all: May you keep buying green bananas.
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Thanks! That's the clearest copy of the manual I've seen. Most look like they're 10th generation scans... I'll take a more clued-in look.
Tom
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Slight change in my Google search terms and I stumbled upon a video of a complete restoration of this saw, including how to remove the rotor. Time to get to work.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yx3HlbyH...AmateurDIY
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Hmmmm, interesting... I will check that out.
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OK, Roly, that was it. This saw needs a lot of work - and I'll do a restoration on it for my friend who has done so much for me - but now know that it will at least run. Some 600-grit emory paper folded and guided with a narrow flat screwdriver cleaned it out enough for both brushes to do what they do.
Thanks for your insight.